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Making your own receivers?

Which anyone who knew that he was talking about would express such results as Rc35-37. And that would be well understood. "36ish"?



Which is why the company that does heat treating for me does 2 opposite sides (on larger pieces).



I don't know if you know your "butt from a burnt biscuit" or not. Nor do I care. However, it is clear that you don't know what steel OR temper makes a good bolt action. And it is becoming increasingly clear that you don't understand steels, tempering OR testing of same.

Your "Word of warning" (from your original post in this thread) is FALSE!!! Do you remember writing:

FAIL!!! LMAO



Frankly I don't care what your background is. Just because you have drifted around for years doing various things doesn't mean you learned a thing or that you can apply what ever knowledge you did glean.



You make them or your "(under 10 guys)" make them while you sit in the office taking credit for what they do? I know a guy that owns a company making machine tools. He couldn't put a plug on a lamp cord, he hires electricians... I doubt he could figure out where to put the welding rod, he hires welders... The fact is he couldn't do ANY of the jobs required to make the products his company makes... He hires others to do it. But he is a good salesman! And that is why his company survives.



And just like my friend above, they don't care about you or your abilities... What they care about is the product that ships. Which has more baring on your "(under 10 guys)" than it does on you.



I'm not concerned about you or your feelings, either way. I'm far more interested in making sure others know the facts. I think myself, speerchucker and a couple others here have make it reasonably clear that fine bolt actions CAN be made from 4140HT... Moving on then...



I don't WANT to make 1¢ off my gun building knowledge. Why would I want to take a pay cut to build firearms for someone else? It's far more fun to do what I do and make firearms for myself.

this is excellent...i read every word of this. you guys should post pictures of yourselves so we can vote who would win this fight.
 
Thanks much Excello. That looks like it was really fun to work with, kind of like loading a miniature howitzer. Should have used the VW to hold the barrel down for the first shot though. :D

I'm always interested to see more.

Thanks again,


Metal Carnage and MI Bill :

Yea - the old '65 VW was my "safety shield" for test firing. LOL. Wish I still had it ! Back then I purchased RWS 50 BMG primers from Dangerous Dave The Old Western Scounger. Surplus 5010 powder came from Hodgdon - still have a note from one of the Hodgdons stating that they only had about 70 lbs left. Still have some of the powder and primers. I did join the FCSA back in the early - mid 80's probably have some of the old black and white newsletters somewhere.

Attached are some more pix showing my " shoot out of the shop window " bench rest. Also a picture of the cocking piece at full cock- turn clockwise to fire - counter clocwise to put in safety detent. The other picture shows some of the very large class 10.9 metric bolts I have collected up for use as pre-hard 4140 stock - hardness is just about ideal IMHO, although a little tough to machine.

MI Bill - thats a VERY interesting idea about using my reciever ring in a piece of tubing to build a complete action ! Thanks ! Always good to get fresh ideas on this forum.

I dont have a pic of the bolt face, but will get one. It's just flat on the face - not counter bored or anything. Easily redesigned for counter bore and extractor etc if i make a new bolt head or complete bolt.

Thanks again guys,

excello
 

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So sorry, I know this is an old thread, but I just was like ohh awesome! I like it. These kinds of topics make me think. To machine an action, bolt and all the misc. pieces to make it a complete action can be done and if you can focus, you can machine very accurate parts. I think something that needs to be addressed though is there needs to be a way to track the action back to someone who is properly licensed to manufacture a firearm. This detail aside though (it is an entirely different topic in unto itself, but one not to be taken lightly!), I think I would reverse engineer the rifle action assembly using the rifle case and a purchased trigger assembly as a foundation. I have used Autodesk Inventor and fusion 360. Inventor has built into the software, tools to analyze parts for weaknesses, given the correct numbers are available to use as references to analyze the assembly with. If you have some machining experience and a couple of precision measuring tools, being able to make a 3-dimensional model and from the model you may make drawings, which you may machine the individual parts. There were many parts I made in past years where I would grab a digital caliper, a sample part, and a cup of coffee and I would go play around on Autodesk Inventor and make a model of what I was trying to make. It took a lot of hours many times. Some days I would sit and make an entire assembly only to find out I had to undo almost everything because I realized it was not machinable due to some area not accessible by the tooling or maybe I would not be able to fixture the part on the mill. This is where having machining experience is nice. Many dimensions are available right on the internet which would be required to get a rough model started. I totally get having drawings though to be able to machine something for the first time. Unless you have machined many of your own designed parts, it is not easy. It's like driving a car blind when starting a new project without a drawing, so don't be discouraged. Many times, halfway through machining a part, you realize you need a different view of the part and then you have to stop and go make another drawing of that view. This is not uncommon for new designers with no machining experience. I mentioned earlier in the thread a purchased trigger assembly. I feel triggers are a work of art and unless you have years of experience to build up your confidence in a part that has a direct relationship to the safety of a firearm, then it might be best to buy a nice trigger like a Canjar set trigger or a Jewel. I do not know anything about Bix n Andy triggers. These are expensive but look at what you get. A work of art that is so sweet when you go to shoot the rifle. I attached some models below. They are just off the top of my head, but it's a start. This is just 30 minutes' worth of brainstorming for a 6.5 Creedmoor.
 

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Here a reall y fascinating article by a son and dad and they build an action the old chool way. No EDM.

 
Here a reall y fascinating article by a son and dad and they build an action the old chool way. No EDM.

I'm sure that this is Lee Martin and his Dad in Virginia. They are a couple pretty smart fellers.
 








 
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