manual machine rebuild

[rcopfer]

I could use some coaching!

I'm rebuilding an Ex-Cell-O 602 mill and as I'm putting it together, I've run into a problem I don't know how to solve. The brass couplings that connect the way lube oil tubes have an arrow on them and I assume that is the for the direction of the way oil. Problem is, no oil passes thru them. Why would these be on the machine? I have dozens of them and no matter how many times I pump the lube handle, nothing comes out the way oil ports. Does anyone know why? What am I doing wrong? The ends with the cloth were full of gunk so I pulled the cloth out of one and still, no oil comes out? It does come out of the way oil case as I rebuilt the pump. Sign me confused....

 

[dkmc]

Metering jets. What they do is clog closed after many years. Most folks replace them.

 

[Superbowl]

You need to replace them. There should be a number on them that tells you the size for each one. https://www.bijurdelimon.com/lubrication-products/distribution-elements/meter-units/mu.html

 

[john.k]

Or soak them in old style methyl chloride paint remover ,or oven cleaner .....or in Turco oil cooler element cleaner ...........you probably wont buy this,but an engine shop may have a bath

 

[rcopfer]

Metering jets. What they do is clog closed after many years. Most folks replace them.

Thank you!

 

[rcopfer]

You need to replace them. There should be a number on them that tells you the size for each one. https://www.bijurdelimon.com/lubrication-products/distribution-elements/meter-units/mu.html

Thanks!

 

[rcopfer]

Metering jets. What they do is clog closed after many years. Most folks replace them.

Thanks for the tip. What is the purpose? So you don't over-oil the ways?

 

[rons]

I use these.

The ones on the far left would replace yours. But they don't meter anything. No toll charges here.

 

[ratbldr427]

If you have a one shot pump the meter fittings have a piston inside that allows several drops per pulse(depending on the size) they also have a screen and or felt that will clog. Since they don't free flow it's hard to flush them. I have taken them apart and cleaned them but it's not worth my time since China Bijur copies are cheap. The fittings for a constant flow are just an orfice and some look just like the meters. Using open meter fittings will let most of the oil flow out the ones with the least resistance and some others will never flow. Soak them in carb cleaner then blow them intermitatly is about the best you can do and don't mix up the positions they go in. The factory figured the best balance . If they are all marked the same then won't make any difference.
The Bijur catalog( should be online) explains all of that, no need to half ass the job.

 

[rcopfer]

If you have a one shot pump the meter fittings have a piston inside that allows several drops per pulse(depending on the size) they also have a screen and or felt that will clog. Since they don't free flow it's hard to flush them. I have taken them apart and cleaned them but it's not worth my time since China Bijur copies are cheap. The fittings for a constant flow are just an orfice and some look just like the meters. Using open meter fittings will let most of the oil flow out the ones with the least resistance and some others will never flow. Soak them in carb cleaner then blow them intermitatly is about the best you can do and don't mix up the positions they go in. The factory figured the best balance . If they are all marked the same then won't make any difference.
The Bijur catalog( should be online) explains all of that, no need to half ass the job.

Thank you so much! That was very informative. Unfortunately I took them off without realizing there was an order to reassembly. But, I found the Ex-Cell-O manual that explains which ones go where! Thanks again.

 

[Richard King]

Check your pump after you replace the metering units (jets) by making a tester to just hook the pump up to the new metering unit and give it a pump. The pump handle will stay pushed down and the flow is super slow, but after a few minutes or wait 5, you should be able to see a few drop coming out of the metering unit. The pump has a check valve in it and if you had it apart you may have lost the check valve and the pump isn't working. If you buy new ones, order a BiJur pressure gage.

When you finally assemble the machine lube system squirt some way oil into the pipes going to the lube ports and bleed the air by loosening the the caps or metering unit connectors. I also fill the open holes in the ways, so the oil can be viewed flowing out the holes before assembling the machine. You have to be sure the holes in the castings are cleaned out, I use brake cleaner in a pressurized squirt can (be sure to wear safety glasses) and compressed air.

I never waste the time trying to clean them, buy new ones and also do not over tighten them as they strip very easy. Many times I replace the pipes if they are Nylon tubing as it gets brittle. I also make wrenches out of 3/8 box wrenches and saw or cut off wheel grind a slot in the box wrench end to slip over the 5/32" pipe. Many times after I have the metering unit tight and leave the special wrench on the meter unit when I tighten the tubing cap.

Those metering units are numbered. Small numbers go to bushing or gears and the larger numbers go to the ways.

 

[Richard King]

Oh I forgot, the unit in the picture above is broken. Look at the top of the unit. The steel insert seal in the brass unit is broken. Those units look OLD and they need to be replaced.

 

[rcopfer]

Check your pump after you replace the metering units (jets) by making a tester to just hook the pump up to the new metering unit and give it a pump. The pump handle will stay pushed down and the flow is super slow, but after a few minutes or wait 5, you should be able to see a few drop coming out of the metering unit. The pump has a check valve in it and if you had it apart you may have lost the check valve and the pump isn't working. If you buy new ones, order a BiJur pressure gage.

When you finally assemble the machine lube system squirt some way oil into the pipes going to the lube ports and bleed the air by loosening the the caps or metering unit connectors. I also fill the open holes in the ways, so the oil can be viewed flowing out the holes before assembling the machine. You have to be sure the holes in the castings are cleaned out, I use brake cleaner in a pressurized squirt can (be sure to wear safety glasses) and compressed air.

I never waste the time trying to clean them, buy new ones and also do not over tighten them as they strip very easy. Many times I replace the pipes if they are Nylon tubing as it gets brittle. I also make wrenches out of 3/8 box wrenches and saw or cut off wheel grind a slot in the box wrench end to slip over the 5/32" pipe. Many times after I have the metering unit tight and leave the special wrench on the meter unit when I tighten the tubing cap.

Those metering units are numbered. Small numbers go to bushing or gears and the larger numbers go to the ways.

Wow! This is great info... thank you so much for sharing... as a newbie in the machine rebuilding world, this is pure gold!

I did rebuild the pump and it seems to be working after I replaced (by cutting down a larger, new one) the soft paper filter. Should I still spend the few hundred dollars to replace the pump?

I was able to find an Ex-Cell-O document detailing the jet numbers and where they belong on the machine and the new jets arrived today from FluidLine Systems.

Also, do you think a 1/8" flare tool will work to flare a 5/32 copper tube? I've got to replace a couple of the lines!

"I also make wrenches out of 3/8 box wrenches and saw or cut off wheel grind a slot in the box wrench end to slip over the 5/32" pipe. Many times after I have the metering unit tight and leave the special wrench on the meter unit when I tighten the tubing cap."

I'm not clear on what you mean above? Can you post a picture of the special wrench? I have a bunch of extra 3/8 open ends and have to replace some of the tubes as well as reinstall all of them!

Thanks again!

 

[JBTR]

I think Richard is referring to DIY flare nut wrenches. I'm attaching a pic of real ones - not cheap. Richard and everyone else thanks for the tips. I just hauled an XLO 602 home 2 days ago so I'll be going through this as well.
John

 

[ratbldr427]

You can buy a new manual pump on E-Bay for less than $ 50 or if you don't like pumping get an electric for less than $100. Be aware that those pumps have an adjustable stroke so you can control the volume up to max capacity.I only mention that since you had it apart. The electrics are nice and they are adjustable, wire it to run only when the main motor runs. I can't tell the difference between the China pumps and the Bijur (which are made in China also). I don't like buying China but it pisses me off to buy a brand name and find out later it is China made after paying 3 times the price.Not bashing the China quality which is very good.
Are you sure the lines are flared? Most now are compression.

 

[Richard King]

Look at Page 16 as it shows the compression sleeve fittings (farrels) No flaring tool is needed. I called them caps (memory isn't so hot sometime), but they are called compression nut and bushing. There is different sleeves, one for nylon and copper, see the pictures on page 16. As far as the wrenches go. Like JB said they are hydraulic wrenches you make out of regular 3/8" box wrenches. Like the one in your picture. Put that in a vise and mount a fiber cut off wheel in an air grinder and grind a slot in the end so you can put it over the line / pipe. I have never seen a pump with a paper filter. They normally have brass screens and a felt filter held in with a spring wire clip on the bottom of the inlet.

I have been replacing and repairing BiJur lube systems for 50+ years. Like rat 427 said you can buy new pumps on eBay. Also check prices from a few companies as some buy from Bijurdelimon and double the price. The company below is the real company.

https://www.bijurdelimon.com/amfile/file/download/file/319/

I have also cleaned the lines out by pumping kerosene through the pump or Stoddart solvent. Then fill with Vactra 2 way oil.

 

[Richard King]

I forgot to say the tubing both Nylon and Copper is 5/32 OD not 1/8" So you need to replace the old ones with their tubing and fittings. I started to buy Meter units and accessories from Lube USA in South Carolina. They make there "stuff" in Japan and Taiwan or they used too. You buy direct and not from a dealer. There is a company who registered Bijur Lubrication and they are not Bijurdelimon, that's why I said to get a quote before you buy. I had a customer order from them and it was double the price of from the factory. Lube USA also has metric sizes for those with metric made machines. https://lube-global.com/english/product.php?ItemID=135

 

[4GSR]

A little late here. Snap-on and a couple of other tool dealers sell 1/4" drive craw foot sockets in a box configuration with a cutout to get over a bolt. I have both a 5/16" and 3/8" that have gotten me out of a bind working on Bijur fittings over the years.

 

[Richard King]

So how is this going? Get new meter units, fittings and tubing?

 

[rcopfer]

HI Richard!

I finally found an Ex-Cell-O document for my mill. The doc tells me the type of meter units and they're location and I bought them from Fluid Systems just as the doc listed them (without first checking the ones that existed.)

Turns out that (4) of the existing ones FSA-2 were actually listed in the doc as supposed to be FJB-2 (they go on the saddle.) The FJB-2 fitting ends that get connected do not fit the 5/32 copper compression fittings on my machine. I've attached them below. As you can see, I had to reorder (4) new FSA's and am awaiting them now.

My Ex-Cell-O was built in 1967 and the layout for the lube system does not match my machine perfectly (I'm guessing the doc was for a later version) so I'm making adjustments and assuming the FSA-2's will do the job equally as well as the FJB's? Thoughts? Any idea what the functional difference is between the two?

As well, all my copper lube lines are guncked up with dirty old lube oil so I am replacing all of them. This is causing way more effort than I had originally thought the rebuild would take but I'm this far in, so kind of screwed at this point.

Ron