Marvel Bandsaw old Series 8 blade guide Q

[memphisjed]

Some of the things you talk about must be in regard to production saws in the $50-100+K price point. The Marvel No. 8 is clearly not in that category. Neither are any of the other saws I mentioned. 'Pinching' is a relative word......'able to pinch' is a better description, some clearance is required.

The marvel 8 is a 60-90k saw.... made of import parts now. Yes, I like real saws, and the 4x6 saw horse miter saw.
I think I try and stay on track for limitations of smaller saws are, just because I can put Hoosier tires on my Tercel doesn’t make it drive better or faster. Putting bigger blade on a saw strains it’s gears and motors if you push blade enough to actually cut and not abrade dust. The wider beam blades are thicker = more metal removed and more center section that has high resistance to cutting. Everything from guides to motor has to be able to push thru or you are just wasting money on a bigger blade to cut slower and in turn less straight.
I detest cutting slower and crooked-you should help your friends stay cutting true, faster, and cheaper.

 

[dkmc]

The marvel 8 is a 60-90k saw.... made of import parts now. Yes, I like real saws, and the 4x6 saw horse miter saw.
I think I try and stay on track for limitations of smaller saws are, just because I can put Hoosier tires on my Tercel doesn’t make it drive better or faster. Putting bigger blade on a saw strains it’s gears and motors if you push blade enough to actually cut and not abrade dust. The wider beam blades are thicker = more metal removed and more center section that has high resistance to cutting. Everything from guides to motor has to be able to push thru or you are just wasting money on a bigger blade to cut slower and in turn less straight.
I detest cutting slower and crooked-you should help your friends stay cutting true, faster, and cheaper.

You won't see any dust in the chip trays of my saws, just real chips. The precieved problems you mention have never happened with any of my saws. The 1" blades are .035, and the 1-1/4" blades are .045. So if the extra .010 width causes 'high resistance to cutting' and potential machine damage, I'll risk it. They all cut very well, and meet my expectations just fine, thanks. A metal service center or large production shop is the place where every sawing second counts in a perfect world. In reality, many of those places have abused, worn out, and zero maintenence machines that struggle to get the work done. My one man shop operates on a much more relaxed schedule. I've had positive results from the modifications I've made. It really doesn't matter to me if you don't agree with them and can't understand the benefits.

 

[memphisjed]

20 percent difference, that is a lot. That is more than thick kerf blades- which are a voodoo stew to keep sharp, cut straight, and not stall/slip on drive wheel.

 

[dkmc]

20 percent difference, that is a lot. That is more than thick kerf blades- which are a voodoo stew to keep sharp, cut straight, and not stall/slip on drive wheel.

Slow down the feed rate a bit and it'll stay sharper longer, cut straighter, and won't slip on the drive wheels!

 

[memphisjed]

Slow down the feed rate a bit and it'll stay sharper longer, cut straighter, and won't slip on the drive wheels!

Slow feed rate dulls blades.... slow feed magnifies uneven tooth wear and blade walks.
I count cuts in hundreds and or tons per shift when I am running a saw. Yes, run a saw. This means riding feed and speed and coolant flows. No, I do not cut bundles.
Blade life, who cares- straight cuts and parts on the floor are money; stock on the infeed is tied up capital and welders standing around watching YouTube.

 

[Ox]

Well, I'm with Dan in the sense that I am not in a hurry.
My saw just needs to keep ahead of my lathes.
"Sawing" is not what either of us are selling I don't think.
If it takes an hour to cut through a bundle - who cares?

So, what I care about is relatively straight cuts, and perishable costs.
I am sure that my blade speed is crawling compared to many, but I cut dry, again - not in a hurry.
I can't push mine very hard anyhow - or I will git more spinners.
And spinners can (and doo) take out blades.


Now there have been times when we are running some 4, 5 and 6" bars of 1045 / 4140 through, and THEN I have to kick it up a bit, as it will be the bottleneck. But I don't have to worry about spinners there.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[dkmc]

I count cuts in hundreds and or tons per shift when I am running a saw.

How does that apply to a 1 man shop? It doesn't. That the point. Your information is interesting but not at all useful for the discussion in this thread other than a bit of wow factor. Someday if I want to take up bandsaw racing, I will reach out for advise. Maybe bandsaw demolition derby is a better analogy as I suspect you wear out machines pretty quick. Post some pictures or a video of this high production cutting!

Your mention of using 5hp for a 3/4" blade and 7.5 for a 1-1/4" blade is not on the same planet as my saws. When I refurbished my Welles 1270 I installed a new 2hp (donated) motor and (traded) 3hp VFD. I did some testing with a chunk of 9" round 1018 (I think it was 1018). With a 1-1/4" blade, 2-3 pitch (I think that was the TPI), based on the motor current at max speed and feed, the indicated HP was around 3/4 HP.
The chips were rolling out of the cut and piling up. I was quite impressed and also surprised it was not more HP. This was fastest SFM and hardest feed I could get out of the saw. So, no, not even in the same realm of what you are describing and your situation does not relate in any way.

 

[alphonso]

(don't read the linked text here as it is not where the link goes to)

Ox's Shop

No dropped zero's. This aint Seattle. This is almost Kansas Toto.... The building is pleasant looking, but it is 70 yrs old too. ------------------- Think Snow Eh! Ox

www.practicalmachinist.com

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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

That's exactly what we did. Twice!

30+ years back we made a new drive wheel. Tilted a rotary table on one of the horizontal mills and had at it. Did it again about 5 years ago. Pinion gears were cheap enough we just bought new ones.

 

[dkmc]

That's exactly what we did. Twice!

30+ years back we made a new drive wheel. Tilted a rotary table on one of the horizontal mills and had at it. Did it again about 5 years ago. Pinion gears were cheap enough we just bought new ones.

The pinion gear with the shaft is like $750 did you just replace the gear?

 

[alphonso]

Seems like the pinion was under $200.00. But that was 5 or more years ago.

 

[memphisjed]

Day shift goes thru 3 saws to my one. They used to bundle cut. Now they are on year 5 on new saw and surprising it is still new. I used up two saws so far, the first should have been had all hydraulics and electronics replaced, the second saw is a toy...