Metal bandsaw advice

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

Since no one else has given you the real answer I will chime in. There is a big difference between what you can cut on a vertical and a horizontal band saw.

The horizontal can cut an infinite length of material in both directions. For example you can cut a 20' long piece of angle iron in half. The limitation is the width of the piece, often only 4" on a small horizontal. You can not cut a 20' piece in half on a vertical.

The vertical saw is limited on one side (a 16" Doall is limited to 16" on one side but infinite on the other side) but it can cut an infinite width of material. This make the vertical ideal for things like plate or sheet metal that will not fit a horizontal saw. On a 16" Doall you could cut a 16" strip off a 4'x8' piece of 12 ga sheet metal. Of course what you usually need it for is something like cutting a 12" x12" piece of aluminum plate or sheet metal.

I can,and have, cut a 20 ft piece of angle in half on a vertical bandsaw but the cut ends will be at about 30 to 45 degrees.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[BT Fabrication]

Beginner garage machinist here
I have a horizontal bandsaw and it does all the metal cutting I have had to do so far
I have the opportunity to buy a vintage Doall vertical bandsaw for cheap
Can't imagine what I will do with it but I do love heavy duty American machinery
Would appreciate advice on what the Doall can be used for that I can't do with my horizontal saw
And yes, I know it can be used to cut curves but I just don't do that type of work

most horizontals usually have a plate that goes on and doubles as an impromptu vertical bandsaw.....

if you havent needed that yet, you probably wont need it.

 

[steve-l]

Consider also that a horizontal saw cannot hold short pieces to saw. The distance between the vice and the blade is too long and the vice does not clamp well when clamping on only one side of the vice without some support of the other side of the vice. Lastly, you don't have the large speed range that you have on a vertical. They are really different machines. One is NOT a substitute for the other.

 

[KTMer]

Since no one else has given you the real answer I will chime in. There is a big difference between what you can cut on a vertical and a horizontal band saw.

The horizontal can cut an infinite length of material in both directions. For example you can cut a 20' long piece of angle iron in half. The limitation is the width of the piece, often only 4" on a small horizontal. You can not cut a 20' piece in half on a vertical.

The vertical saw is limited on one side (a 16" Doall is limited to 16" on one side but infinite on the other side) but it can cut an infinite width of material. This make the vertical ideal for things like plate or sheet metal that will not fit a horizontal saw. On a 16" Doall you could cut a 16" strip off a 4'x8' piece of 12 ga sheet metal. Of course what you usually need it for is something like cutting a 12" x12" piece of aluminum plate or sheet metal.

Makes sense
Thanks Superbowl

 

[KTMer]

Consider also that a horizontal saw cannot hold short pieces to saw. The distance between the vice and the blade is too long and the vice does not clamp well when clamping on only one side of the vice without some support of the other side of the vice. Lastly, you don't have the large speed range that you have on a vertical. They are really different machines. One is NOT a substitute for the other.

Thanks again Steve

 

[KTMer]

Well, I did buy it
Have not picked it up yet but will post pics when it's in my hands
It appears to be a 1960s vintage model 1612 that is pretty rough but complete except for the blade welder
Again, if anyone has any info on where to find parts for the blade welder that would be much appreciated

 

[steve-l]

When you pick it up and do a complete inspection. Take lots of photos and get back to us here. Do not expect to find parts from scrap machines........there aren't any. DoAll is your parts source. I maintain an ongoing eBay search for parts. You can find blade guides occasionally and wheel tires from the aftermarket. Everything else is scarce used. I will give you fair warning DoAll is very proud of their parts, be prepared. The 1612 takes up a lot of floor space and it is awkward to move around as the frame is mounted to a steel plate. You may want to build a lowboy trolley, I did. It allows me to roll it against the wall when not in use. It is also quite tall, but there is a tapped 3/4 NC hole on the top for an eye bolt. The saw will weigh about 980 lbs.

 

[Clive603]

Unless you plan to do inside sawing necessitating the blade be split and re-joined I'd not be that worried about the blade welder.

I grabbed my Startrite vertical around 15 years back because it had a blade welder and the price was right with the idea of saving money by making my own blades and avoiding a 40 mile + round trip to get them from the nearest industrial supplier.

By the time I'd stocked up on good brand, mostly Starrett, rolls at affordable prices via E-Bay mail order suppliers had got their act and quality together so real world prices began to fall. Although its still cheaper to make your own if you get a roll at a good price the differential is far less than it was. I suspect that, in the UK at least, at list price you'd do little better than break-even.

Doing a decent job of welding a blade isn't as easy as the folk who can claim. Needs a sensible amount of practice which most folk just won't get. I might do one or two a year which isn't sufficient to keep my eye in.

Just stock up on a couple or three blades of the type and tooth count you will use and just get on with things.

Clive

PS :- About 5 years ago the industrial supplier I use to go to moved to the industrial estate opposite the railway station. About 15 minutes to walk 10 to drive. Sometimes I get that outsmarted myself feeling.

 

[tnmgcarbide]

unless your new saw already has one, a doAll band welder isn't the only
machine for the job , and all but the larger models will only weld to 1/2"
or 5/8" carbon steel bands. if you intend to cut internal profiles , you're
likely using 3/16-5/16" anyway. band welders are simple as dirt. a vintage
Stryco can be had for chump change($100-$200) . a simple cleaning of the
jaws and timer is usually good to go. the windings of the transformer are copper ribbons- like a weller soldering gun...never seen one of those fail
either.

buy the band stock on ebay. $40-$50 will get you 100' of 1/2 or 5/8 all day .


i just bought 2- 100" coils of 1"x10t for less than $50 , shipped. i don't
own a butt-welder, but TIG or brass brazing works too.

 

[doug8cat]

This thread is one that exemplifies why PM stands way above other well you know. Great members, everyone has strong point and they show here. You guys have saved my ass on many occasions.

Thanks to members (you know who your are).
Also to Don. Sorry 2 things one had to come first, flipped a coin.

But look at this way:
members = orchestra
Don = conductor

 

[KTMer]

When you pick it up and do a complete inspection. Take lots of photos and get back to us here. Do not expect to find parts from scrap machines........there aren't any. DoAll is your parts source. I maintain an ongoing eBay search for parts. You can find blade guides occasionally and wheel tires from the aftermarket. Everything else is scarce used. I will give you fair warning DoAll is very proud of their parts, be prepared. The 1612 takes up a lot of floor space and it is awkward to move around as the frame is mounted to a steel plate. You may want to build a lowboy trolley, I did. It allows me to roll it against the wall when not in use. It is also quite tall, but there is a tapped 3/4 NC hole on the top for an eye bolt. The saw will weigh about 980 lbs.

Will do Steve
Really appreciate the 1612 specific advice
Have you posted on here re your machine?

 

[KTMer]

Unless you plan to do inside sawing necessitating the blade be split and re-joined I'd not be that worried about the blade welder.

I grabbed my Startrite vertical around 15 years back because it had a blade welder and the price was right with the idea of saving money by making my own blades and avoiding a 40 mile + round trip to get them from the nearest industrial supplier.

By the time I'd stocked up on good brand, mostly Starrett, rolls at affordable prices via E-Bay mail order suppliers had got their act and quality together so real world prices began to fall. Although its still cheaper to make your own if you get a roll at a good price the differential is far less than it was. I suspect that, in the UK at least, at list price you'd do little better than break-even.

Doing a decent job of welding a blade isn't as easy as the folk who can claim. Needs a sensible amount of practice which most folk just won't get. I might do one or two a year which isn't sufficient to keep my eye in.

Just stock up on a couple or three blades of the type and tooth count you will use and just get on with things.

Clive

PS :- About 5 years ago the industrial supplier I use to go to moved to the industrial estate opposite the railway station. About 15 minutes to walk 10 to drive. Sometimes I get that outsmarted myself feeling.

I appreciate your insights Clive

 

[KTMer]

unless your new saw already has one, a doAll band welder isn't the only
machine for the job , and all but the larger models will only weld to 1/2"
or 5/8" carbon steel bands. if you intend to cut internal profiles , you're
likely using 3/16-5/16" anyway. band welders are simple as dirt. a vintage
Stryco can be had for chump change($100-$200) . a simple cleaning of the
jaws and timer is usually good to go. the windings of the transformer are copper ribbons- like a weller soldering gun...never seen one of those fail
either.

buy the band stock on ebay. $40-$50 will get you 100' of 1/2 or 5/8 all day .

Good advice tnmgcarbide
Thank you