Milling machine runout.

[Terry Keeley]

Your photos say that machine is quite old and has been neglected, IMHO you can either:

A: Spend many hours and many Rupees completely disassembling it, cleaning and replacing worn parts, re-grinding the spindle taper and replacing the bearings.

B: Use it as it is, work with it within it's limitations and learn. Save your money for a nicer small mill.

 

[Screwmachine]

From the bluing the spindle looks bell mouthed (assuming the tool wasn't knackered) and pock marked. Once you've gone through the bearings and adjusted everything it would benefit from a regrind; but as much flak as this will get, I had a little Arboga mill with a nasty spindle bore that I retouched with a 3 more taper reamer- it was so, so much better after that. Only made maybe 3 careful full turns with the reamer. If you can get a reamer for it give it a try.

At the same time it's odd that you had such a hard time ejecting the tool with so little contact in there, was the tool you ejected the one that came already in the machine? MT shanks that have been in their spindle for a long time can be very hard to eject, even with such little contact.

 

[dian]

blue it up with a new taper. then as a firs step i would take a round stone and hold it in there for a while. before comissioning a regrind you can charge a good taper with diamond and clean the spindle with that.

how much does the spindle move if you press on it sideways by hand in opposite directions?

 

[rusdee]

blue it up with a new taper. then as a firs step i would take a round stone and hold it in there for a while. before comissioning a regrind you can charge a good taper with diamond and clean the spindle with that.

how much does the spindle move if you press on it sideways by hand in opposite directions?

Will check on that.
Before removing should I grease the spindle 1st? I did use oil but oil started to leak and it was still stiff in some places.

Do you guys have any tips for the runout on the collet chuck? 0.07mm is a lot yah? I don't do tolerance based work just work with mild steel, alu and brass.

Btw working on with a 0.07mm endmill runout cant it harm the machine?

 

[Gard]

From the bluing the spindle looks bell mouthed (assuming the tool wasn't knackered) and pock marked. Once you've gone through the bearings and adjusted everything it would benefit from a regrind; but as much flak as this will get, I had a little Arboga mill with a nasty spindle bore that I retouched with a 3 more taper reamer- it was so, so much better after that. Only made maybe 3 careful full turns with the reamer. If you can get a reamer for it give it a try.

At the same time it's odd that you had such a hard time ejecting the tool with so little contact in there, was the tool you ejected the one that came already in the machine? MT shanks that have been in their spindle for a long time can be very hard to eject, even with such little contact.

So what is wrong with using a taper reamer to finish an arbor? I cut a taper with the taper attachment on the lathe then finished with a reamer. Seems to be working OK, certainty an improvement.

 

[1yesca]

the machine reminds me of that small mill that rockwell made at one time . it looks to be a hobbyist machine . i am sure that with

enough time and money [reworking or replacing parts ] you will or cam get it to run truer then it dose now . ok so what next ?

what about the table or the knee how true are they ? its never going to be a 10EE class of machine . that's not to say don't wast

your time on it but understand that mill has its limitations . if your looking for precision i don't believe that machine is going to

fit the bill but who knows it may get you to were you want to go and if your ok with the rest of it and the run out is the only thing

that is a problum then by al means fix it and makes some chips.

 

[52 Ford]

the machine reminds me of that small mill that rockwell made at one time . it looks to be a hobbyist machine . i am sure that with

enough time and money [reworking or replacing parts ] you will or cam get it to run truer then it dose now . ok so what next ?

what about the table or the knee how true are they ? its never going to be a 10EE class of machine . that's not to say don't wast

your time on it but understand that mill has its limitations . if your looking for precision i don't believe that machine is going to

fit the bill but who knows it may get you to were you want to go and if your ok with the rest of it and the run out is the only thing

that is a problum then by al means fix it and makes some chips.

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