Monarch Series 61, Rebuilding for Improvement

[texasgeartrain]

Moving on to check contact surfaces.

I'm using a wood stain type spongy type roller and paint tray found in Home Depot, Lowes, etc. And Canode die spotting ink from American Rotary Tools. I like this as it will not permanently stain me or the machine the way prussian blue will:



Checking contact at TS end of bed first. I went slightly heavy on the ink:



My contact area on flat way was amazingly terrible:



Vee way contact better, but not great:



Seeing this surface contact, I can really understand gbent's comments on the TS pushing off when locked down.

 

[texasgeartrain]

Update from my last post, I also blued and checked TS base on head stock surface area of bed ways. Pretty close to the same results in the last post.

Moving to check cross slide. I had better and more detailed pics. But apparently my phone ate them. I do have some from what i was doing which I'll get posted here.

I blued up the dovetail on saddle, way surfaces and top of dove tail. Laid the cross slide on and checked. I was basically contacting on the four corners of way surfaces, Like the cross slide was bowed upwards in the middle.

I yanked it off and first used a shorter straight edge to check it. The straight edge not as long as the cross slide. The blue markers you see here are the full length ends of that straight edge.



Though that straight edge was shorter it confirmed the cross slide was warped upwards.

I don't have the pic of the results, but I used this straight edge on the cross slide way surfaces. And the contact points were at the very ends, further confirmation it was warped.



I then flipped the cross slide over to check the top side. Not highly visible in this photo, but all the contact was in the center on cross slide:



Knowing I'm going to machine the surfaces, I wanted to measure the thickness of both way surfaces to the top of cross slide. Using those numbers I might adjust its mounting as I set up to machine:



The notes on the measurements I took:

 

[texasgeartrain]

I forgot, and wanted to stick feeler gauges between the straight edge and cross slide. So I figured I'd blue it again for the pics.

Not super visible in pics, but here it is, contact out on the very edges of ways surfaces:



Zooming in on each side for a better visual:



Sticking feeler gauges in, I can get a .007" on head stock side, and .004" on TS side:

 

[rke[pler]

Looks like a candidate for may material. I used Multifil on mine when it was .012 low.

 

[texasgeartrain]

Looks like a candidate for may material. I used Multifil on mine when it was .012 low.

My original plan was just to clean, lube, and do minor repairs. Since I've reverse course on that, I'm going to machine the surfaces flat.

For the cross slide, machining the surfaces will also give me the chance to "pretty" it up a bit too. Top side has a bunch of work related dings:



And since it is bowed upwards, I'll machine top side first to get it flat. Then flip it over to do way surfaces. Also needing attention will be that inside surface that rides over the dovetail. I need to take a little off there too, so as to not contact the dovetail. Harry had some thoughts on that as well, with the T/A drawbar:
Another New Toy

In thinking about what he wrote, I want to mount taper again, and the drawbar, just to look and measure. In the end, I think I will choose his course. Besides the obvious, the top of my dove is mostly pretty good and straight. It will be surface i'm going to reference for leveling saddle. Just need to scrape some high spots down, but a quick check, the top side of dove tail is pretty good.

I also want to machine top side of saddle's flat surfaces. Not work related, someone thought those surfaces made a good anvil



If that person is out there, I hope they have lived every day with uncontrollable explosive diarrhea, with bouts in front of pretty girls. Besides the saddle, they like to beat on the bed at TS end as well. I'll be looking to get that out too:



Good news, I got my bronze order in. C954 for TS base, for way surface. And c932 which will be the saddle way surface:

 

[texasgeartrain]

I had just trammed my mill, so to do all my flat surfaces first I probably should have started with the cross slide to be more efficient. But I have more meat on TS base, plus I'll be milling that deeper later on to add the bronze. So I figured I'd start with TS base in case I have any oops-ies.

Checking the top side of TS base with a straight edge, real nice contact all over. Should be able to clamp right down to the mill table:



Before beginning I wanted to map out the oil passage lightning bolts. Not planning to mill past them yet, but you never know. Anyway, I'm going to need them sooner or later:



Getting set up for the first pass. Plan is .005" a pass, we'll see how it goes.



After the first pass, taking .005":



Taking another .005" on the 2nd pass, for a total of .010" removed. Got the majority out so far:

 

[texasgeartrain]

Took another .005" on third pass as well. All the wear removed from the flat way surface now, with a total of .015" removed:



Again, as I just trammed the mill, I didn't want to change the degrees to do vee way yet. I'll return to that once the cross slide is done.

Just messing around for shits and giggles. Thought I'd blue up bed way and see how contact looked now. Keep in mind, I didn't address the vee way yet, so sure, it wont be even. But lets have a look anyway.

While not fully across, due to vee way still uneven, real nice results. Nearly full contact on the end where flat way is contacting, and that's just from milling:



Not surprising, vee way contact area is a little worse. But we'll see how I do after milling it:



But pretty good so far, especially considering my flat way contact looked this prior to milling:



Another note: On TS base I was .010" low on vee way side prior to milling. Now vee way side is like .003-.004" high. I hope to come in level(ish) once vee side is milled.