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Moving a Mazak VQC-15/40 CNC; off loading from trailer using machine skates or do I need rigger


Apr 23, 2011
19970 DE USA
Moving a Mazak VQC-15/40 CNC; off loading from trailer using machine skates or do I need rigger? The seller will load, but when I off load, can machine skates on a trailer ramp, how well will this work out? In a tilt bed trailer I can see the advantage of not having the ramp as an independent part that may shift, I am not familiar with the construction of the base of the machine. Many thanks!
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Oct 10, 2009
No. There's no way that will work using ramps.

Skates need the surfaces above and below them to be close to parallel or they slide right out. With the right strategy you can use a low angle power tilt or drop deck trailer, but ramps are a 100% no go.

If you do not have a heavy power tilt trailer with a heavy winch (the trailer must have powered hydraulic up and down to move machines like this) it would be wise to pay a rollback to haul and place the machine or rent a forklift.

If you've never done this stuff paying a rigger would be a great idea so you can see how it's done. If you can't estimate center of mass and you don't have an assortment of rigging tools you can get yourself in a real jamb or get hurt real bad.


Dec 15, 2003
suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
Imo rigger will do better, quick scan says its a 10k machine...expensive way to find out the limitations of skates and ramps....very easy job for a rigger with standard 15k forklift.

In general skates don't do well on wood. Not sure if that was in your calculus but they also allow point-loads to develop.

Also, you mentioned a tilt-bed trailer...very difficult to load anything "over the fenders" unless a crane of some sort is involved. Forklifts have clearance problems with fenders, hence the better use of a deckover trailer (with tires completely underneath ala semi truck flatbed)
Nov 19, 2007
marysville ohio
A) Use the sort of skates that can deal with the surface. My case, that's the tall urethane-roller ones, similar to pallet-jack roller/wheels, AND NOT the lower-profile all-steel ones that basically use a roller-bearing's outer race as the "wheel".

B) BECOME familiar (enough) with the underside of the load that you know where and how to BOLT your skates firmly to it!!!

Cannot stress this enough!

A(ny) skate retained only by gravity and friction WILL depart on it's own independent advice even on what you THOUGHT was a dead-flat and smooth concrete floor or steel plate. As all it takes to "unload" a skate is a stiff-enough load that "bridges' a drop of but 20 thousands or so of an inch and THAT truant skate is NO LONGER trapped by the load atop it.

If not practical to bolt directly to the frame of the load? Then go for a higher lift that puts space for a site-fabbed frame under the load - so the skates can be bolted to it to form a bespoke 'carrier'.

Either way, bolt 'em into place so they will 'be there' to take-up the load even when traversing a rather uneven surface. Expecting gravity alone to retain a skate where it needs to can become a poor-boy's imitation of a "suicide kit".

Not as if you had to hire a professional rigger twice every DAY is it?

Could be cheaper than DIY, just off the back of the speciality equipment you would have to buy... or rent?

2CW.. and over a dozen skates, several different types...

If you have to ask you need a rigger.


Dec 21, 2012
Brisbane Qld Australia
It seems you are hiring a trailer.....so hire a roll back instead.......and when you want the load to skid on the deck,use washing up detergent.... easily washed off.