Moving to a new bigger shop blank slate what would you do that im forgetting.

[ViktorS]

I could not see any "material handling" equipment, especially a saw and table for that. Maby you only buy precut stock, but otherwise a saw takes up a lot of space if you're cutting longer bars. It also will get quite dirty around it.

Somewhere to put a stable vise for if/when things get stuck or you need a "helping hand" for holding on to something while tightening it. Putting vises on movable benches only work so good. Might be just a pillar with a vise on it.

Water, and especially chilled water for drinking is nice. Maby a coffe-maker? Refrigurator for putting some soda or sandwitch in when working late and dont want to disturb the misses?

Sound-dampening ceiling tiles. Echoes and the like can make a lot of noise, making you tired in the head after a while.

To make it short: Be sure to make it comfortable. Will make it sooo much easier when things dont go your way and you need a break. Will also make it nice for a employee to work there.

PS. Break-room with table and microwave, and soundproof?

 

[Emma99]

Lighting. Dark, cloudy days and late hours, even if you have a lot of windows make lighting invaluable. I've always been amazed at how many shops don't invest in mounted lights but purchase large amounts of portable lights to overcome the shadows.

Exactly, do not skimp on lighting as it all too important.

 

[DouglasJRizzo]

Hey all, after 9 years in a 20x30 back yard shop, I bought a house with a nice 48x36 shop with 3 phase and a bathroom! I manufacture/sell my own parts in southern Washington

Before I move the mills in:
Epoxy the floor White. I think. unless you can give me a reason to go grey.

Paint the walls and rafters white?

Might go PEX airlines again as the stuff in my current shop has held up well.

Finish the insulation and heat.

RO water system with 55gal clean water storage and a mini jetmix coolant mixer that goes into a 15 gal mobile barrel that can fill top off machines.

What else am I forgetting?


I've got 2 brother Speedio S700's that I'm putting in the corner and over the next year I'm adding an employee or two, a DMG 5axis DMU75+PH150 pallet changer and a Okuma Mill/Turn Multus B250II
This winter I'm adding a 12ft x 48ft lean to on the shop back wall for offices and parts inspection/assembly/shipping.

Make sure you can isolate parts of the air system in case of leaks, so a leaky line doesn't shut down the whole shop.
White is a great idea (or light gray) - keep the place bright.
Speaking of bright, use that nifty high intensity lighting that keeps the electric bill down.
Washrooms - large, easily cleanable.
Bay door - BIG.
Sign? Exterior lighting? fencing?
Internet?
Fans & A/C?

 

[the_r1_kid]

Thanks a lot for the reply's everyone. I forgot a lot

Since it's a virtually new unstained floor I'm still going with an industrial white epoxy coating to see how it goes. I don't work in steel or large parts, I don't think Ill be that hard on the floor... we will see how it goes.

I only work in pre cut aluminum and plastic. So I can skip the saw and area and hassle. Material comes pre cut on pallets then to carts then into the machines.

That's a good point on the comfort. I'm heating the shop, and if it gets too hot next summer I'll A/C it too. Ill add a comfortable break/lunch area in the back lean to area. I'm going to try and spray foam the shop before i move the machine in so I think that will take care of some of the echo-ness of the shop.

All good zoning wise.

Before the large machines come in I'll for sure plan to pour appropriate pad for each of them.

Some other little things that have come up that I forgot:
Mop bucket fill/drain area
Fire extinguishers/eyewash/first aid
Plan where swarf bins will go
quiet air guns
Main air line does a full loop around the shop and back to the compressor with drops where needed. The loop helps mitigate pressure drop at the end of the system it effectively halves the length of the air system.

4000k LED lights everywhere
Rig up an overhead rail/trolley with a winch over the two big machines since I cant really get a forklift in front of the machines easily.

Thanks again everyone

 

[Garwood]

If you insulate OK a 5 ton heat pump should heat and cool that building in any NW weather. I would buy one that is self contained where you just connect the air ducts to your building in that size range.

Heat pumps work down to about as cold as it can get here in the NW.

 

[the_r1_kid]

If you insulate OK a 5 ton heat pump should heat and cool that building in any NW weather. I would buy one that is self contained where you just connect the air ducts to your building in that size range.

Heat pumps work down to about as cold as it can get here in the NW.

Hey thanks. Looking into it a heat pump really makes sense for my shop as I have no access to gas for heat and I'll probably need to A/C it anyway. Thanks for the suggestion I'll have a few companies quote for it and go that way instead of paying 2K for old school electric Wearhouse style heaters and then paying for an AC system that takes the same amount of work to install as a heatpump.

 

[Garwood]

Hey thanks. Looking into it a heat pump really makes sense for my shop as I have no access to gas for heat and I'll probably need to A/C it anyway. Thanks for the suggestion I'll have a few companies quote for it and go that way instead of paying 2K for old school electric Wearhouse style heaters and then paying for an AC system that takes the same amount of work to install as a heatpump.

Electric is very inefficient/expensive all around. My shop isn't fully insulated yet so I heat 7K sq ft with a 325,000 BTU waste oil furnace. Collecting the oil is kind of a PITA, but it's the only way I can affordably warm the place. At one time I had two 60,000 BTU electric furnaces trying to get the place to 50 degrees in winter. Nope. That was $1000 electric bill pissed away. Once I get everything insulated and sealed up tight I'm going to invest in a nice heat pump.

 

[wrrocket]

For floor coatings, Amershield polyurethane would be my suggestion. I have it in my home shop and we have it out at work, it is not cheap by any means. But it is less brittle than normal epoxy and more resistant to chemicals and yellowing from UV. They have a haze grey color which is a good mix of brightness and not having to constantly clean it. I have a blue tinted off white, and it does clean real easy but it definitely shows every bit of dirt. But it definitely brightened up the shop.

No floor coating (or even the concrete) will survive dropping steel rounds on it, but it's just fine for forklifts pallet jacks and other general use. If you have a welding area, burn resistant mats or just bare concrete would be best in that area.

If you are doing the work yourself, cleaning any oils and doing an acid etch (citric acid/muriatic acid) prior to any coatings is critical. This opens the pores of the concrete and helps it bond properly. If you drip a drop of water onto the surface after the etching it should wick into the concrete. Amershield has a specific epoxy base coat to put onto the bare concrete (Amerlock sealant or PPG flooring concrete primer).

I just used 18" rollers with an extension handle and I was able to paint my 760 sq. ft. home shop by myself in about 20 minutes for each coating. If you roll it on, it will naturally give a slightly more textured surface than spray on, which is good for the slickness. It still is slick if you get oil on it. You will want two of the polyurethane top coats if you are rolling it to get decent coverage. You will also want the specific thinner for the Amershield as it is a bit too thick normally to roll on. Also you can mooch some more pot life by adding more thinner as you go (up to a certain percentage).

If you put a light dusting of the finer grain sand as you go after the first coating then roll the second on top of the sand it will give you enough grip to be a lot less slippery. But also still be relatively easy to clean. I didn't put any in my home shop, but we have at work.

Price wise its about $600-$800 for 5 gallons depending on where you live, and that did my 760 sq ft with a small amount of extra. The primer went a lot farther than the paint would spread.

Most of the problems people have with floor coatings is either improper surface prep, Too high of water evaporation rate from their concrete, or just using not that great of coatings/wrong coating for the application. Doing a moisture transmission test is a good idea, as if it is above a certain level there is specialty sealers to use to mitigate it.

 

[DanielG]

White is a great idea (or light gray) - keep the place bright.

Our walls are gray to about 4' up and then white above it. It works well. The gray hides dirt and scuff marks well, and the white is very reflective.

 

[2outof3]

For floor coatings, Amershield polyurethane would be my suggestion. I have it in my home shop and we have it out at work, it is not cheap by any means. But it is less brittle than normal epoxy and more resistant to chemicals and yellowing from UV. They have a haze grey color which is a good mix of brightness and not having to constantly clean it. I have a blue tinted off white, and it does clean real easy but it definitely shows every bit of dirt. But it definitely brightened up the shop.

No floor coating (or even the concrete) will survive dropping steel rounds on it, but it's just fine for forklifts pallet jacks and other general use. If you have a welding area, burn resistant mats or just bare concrete would be best in that area.

If you are doing the work yourself, cleaning any oils and doing an acid etch (citric acid/muriatic acid) prior to any coatings is critical. This opens the pores of the concrete and helps it bond properly. If you drip a drop of water onto the surface after the etching it should wick into the concrete. Amershield has a specific epoxy base coat to put onto the bare concrete (Amerlock sealant or PPG flooring concrete primer).

I just used 18" rollers with an extension handle and I was able to paint my 760 sq. ft. home shop by myself in about 20 minutes for each coating. If you roll it on, it will naturally give a slightly more textured surface than spray on, which is good for the slickness. It still is slick if you get oil on it. You will want two of the polyurethane top coats if you are rolling it to get decent coverage. You will also want the specific thinner for the Amershield as it is a bit too thick normally to roll on. Also you can mooch some more pot life by adding more thinner as you go (up to a certain percentage).

If you put a light dusting of the finer grain sand as you go after the first coating then roll the second on top of the sand it will give you enough grip to be a lot less slippery. But also still be relatively easy to clean. I didn't put any in my home shop, but we have at work.

Price wise its about $600-$800 for 5 gallons depending on where you live, and that did my 760 sq ft with a small amount of extra. The primer went a lot farther than the paint would spread.

Most of the problems people have with floor coatings is either improper surface prep, Too high of water evaporation rate from their concrete, or just using not that great of coatings/wrong coating for the application. Doing a moisture transmission test is a good idea, as if it is above a certain level there is specialty sealers to use to mitigate it.

Plus one on the poly. After several showroom floors, our Poly floor has been the best I have dealt with.

FastFloor(R) One Day Flooring System | Polyaspartic Flooring

 

[gusmadison]

Put a Namco forklift on the want list. Every shop has room for one of those to navigate. One of best pieces of support equipment I bought in the beginning 30 years ago.

 

[DanielG]

Put a Namco forklift on the want list. Every shop has room for one of those to navigate. One of best pieces of support equipment I bought in the beginning 30 years ago.

They are handy in a small shop; they turn on a dime. I'm getting rid of mine now that I moved to a larger space, but it's on the wrong coast for you.

 

[the_r1_kid]

I've been looking at polyurethane recently actually. This kit is looking pretty promising.
Nohr-S(R) Polyurea Kit Pigmented | Legacy Industrial
$3200 for me to do the shop. Getting consistent $13-14K quotes for a pro polyurethane install.

Yup namco forklift looks pretty right for my shop.

 

[lucky7]

No comment about polyurethane as I’m very happy with my epoxy, but please, please don’t get the version with flakes. You’ll never find little things you drop.

L7