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My “new” K&T No. 2K

SellersAMCo

Plastic
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
I’ve been lurking here for a while, trying to learn what I can as I collect pieces for my machine shop. I’ve been a woodworker since I was 10 years old, then several years ago I started ditching my modern machines and collecting vintage American iron. During this process I realized I can’t get parts for most of this old machinery, so buying old machine tools seemed like the next logical step. I built a 30x50 shop that I’m in the process of finishing, and meanwhile I’m collecting machines. My most recent finds are a Cincinnati Bickford 9” column radial drill and a K&T No. 2K horizontal mill, both from the early 40’s. The radial drill is in pretty nice shape, but the K&T is another story. I got it unloaded off of my trailer yesterday (barely), gave it a good cleaning and then moved it into the shop. I’m missing one handle off of the front of the machine, I think it should’ve been the long bar style and not a round handle. I also can not get any of the axis to move manually. When I try to turn the X handle it moves slightly but sounds like it’s moving the power feed gear train. The feed rate dial also will not turn. Is it possible it is just bound up and needs to be running to change the feed rate and then move the tables manually? As far as the surface rust on the ways, how would you attack it? Anything else I need to be doing/looking for as I start cleaning it up? I won’t have power in the shop for another couple months, so hooking it up is not an option currently.

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sfriedberg

Diamond
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Location
Oregon, USA
That tool and cutter grinder will come in very handy to support your horizontal mill habit! Turn a $10 very used cutter back into something useful.
 

SellersAMCo

Plastic
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
That tool and cutter grinder will come in very handy to support your horizontal mill habit! Turn a $10 very used cutter back into something useful.
Yes the guy tossed that in with the mill! It’s a KO Lee, seems to be a neat little machine!
 

johnoder

Diamond
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Location
Houston, TX USA
Been awhile, but on my 2CH you had to have the "on-off" lever in the right place in order to do some things - like turn the speeds dial - if I remember right :D
 

Ohio Mike

Titanium
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Location
Central Ohio, USA
The power feed levers have to be in the neutral posiions for the cranks to work. The feed dial selector is supposed to be moved with the machine running. If its jammed up you may be able to free it up by opening the right side door and having someone roll the flywheel over while you fiddle with it. I would pull the belts before powering it up to make sure the motor is turning the correct direction. Some links to some docs that should help you out. BTW it doesn't look that bad I've cleaned up worse.


Ops Manual
Parts Manual
Big thank you to Keith Rucker @ VintageMachinery.Org for hosting all this stuff.
 

marka12161

Stainless
Joined
Dec 23, 2016
Location
Oswego, NY USA
Regarding surface rust on the ways. I would start by scraping the heavy goo off with a straight razor from a box cutter. These things tend to live in oil and unless it was outside for an extended period of time, you may find that what you think is rust is mostly grime. Either way, the razor will remove the worst of it. I would then proceed with the finest steel wool you can find lubricated with some kerosene. Others on here have advised against using scotch brite pads on sliding surfaces. The argument is the scotch brite pads leave behind abrasive residue. I personally don't know if there's evidence to support this contention but it seems reasonable to me so i stay away from scotchbrite for important surfaces. I use it for stuff like handles and dials.
 

SellersAMCo

Plastic
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Ok, I had a few minutes today to mess with the mill some more. I got the front part of the ways on the knee cleaned up decently with a straight edge razor, fine steel wool, mineral spirits and WD40. I can see some scraping so that’s a good sign I guess. It’s still froze up though. The top clutch lever (is that the proper term?) won’t move more than a couple inches back and forth, and I think that’s just spinning on the shaft. It’s not actually moving the clutch at all. Am I going to have to power it up to work out these issues?

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MyLilMule

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
I'd be careful powering up a pretty rusty machine like that. You might end up breaking something.

I had a similar issue with my 2HL. The power feed lever for the saddle would not move. Turned out to be a rusted in place detent plunger that took me quite a bit to work loose. You might want to pull the feed distribution unit out of the knee. The 2CK is a bit bigger than my 2HL, but I published a few videos on the YT channel of what I did to mine and what I learned. Perhaps those might help you. Here's a link to a thread here on PM: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/k-t-2hl-rehab-project.404372/
 

SellersAMCo

Plastic
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
I'd be careful powering up a pretty rusty machine like that. You might end up breaking something.

I had a similar issue with my 2HL. The power feed lever for the saddle would not move. Turned out to be a rusted in place detent plunger that took me quite a bit to work loose. You might want to pull the feed distribution unit out of the knee. The 2CK is a bit bigger than my 2HL, but I published a few videos on the YT channel of what I did to mine and what I learned. Perhaps those might help you. Here's a link to a thread here on PM: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/k-t-2hl-rehab-project.404372/
Thank you!! I’ll watch them all. I’m starting to see that I’ll probably need to completely go through this one. Not ideal, but also not the end of the world considering the $500 purchase price.
 

MyLilMule

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
Thank you!! I’ll watch them all. I’m starting to see that I’ll probably need to completely go through this one. Not ideal, but also not the end of the world considering the $500 purchase price.
Just to be clear, I am no expert, just a hobbyist that learns fast, mostly from mistakes. But I sent you the number of someone that is an expert. He's forgotten more about these machines than I will ever learn. There are also some knowledgable people (way more than me) on here, like @ramsay1. You will also likely find manuals and parts diagrams over at VintageMachinery.org.
 

MwTech Inc

Titanium
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Location
Fishersville VA
Simple thing...make sure the axis locks are not "on"
If you turn the flywheel (it has an arrow) and something moves, you have a feed engaged.
Flywheel doesn't move or is very hard to turn, your jammed up

And as said.....do NOT power it up until you can use the flywheel by hand to make things work

Clutch
Open the side cover, you will see a domed cup pushing against 4 fingers. that is your clutch.
If you tighten the clutch lever on the shaft,(you said it might be loose?) then that domed cup moves about 3/4 of an inch in /out.
When you see that working properly , then you can engage it , turn flywheel by hand and see what happens.
 

MwTech Inc

Titanium
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Location
Fishersville VA
Just in case...the two levers in front are two of the feed controls, they must be centered to allow manual operation of the axis. The table has the lever on the left.
If these are "centered" the axis should move by the handwheels.. again...do NOT power up until you can move all by hand.
 

imported_eric_h

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Location
Atlanta, GA
@SellersAMCo I just bought a 2k in May and just finished moving it to basement and to power so i don't know that much to add anything better than what was said here. I have links to videos that go over how to run it so if u are interested i can email u. To beat a dead horse make sure it all moves manually before putting power to it..i know its annoying but your machine is a diamond in the ruff and will be well worth the due diligence.
 








 
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