Jim Christie:
Thank you posting the photos. The orange tractor is quite an interesting study. It is most likely not an "Economy", though the orange color is similar to Economy's factory color. It is a factory made tractor, looking at the front axle and how the whole machine is built. The engine is a Wisconsin, and what jumped out at me is the starter motor. The starter motor and its chain drive look like they came off a Gravely "L" series (2 wheel or 'walk behind') tractor. The large sprocket on the front of the Wisconsin engine with the nut in the center is just what is used on the old Gravely tractors. There is a 'sprag' (if I am correct in my terminology) or "over-running' clutch inside the hub of that sprocket with some rollers having a flat on them. This clutch engages when the starter motor cranks the engine. When the engine starts and runs, the clutch in the sprocket hub disengages. I rebuilt a couple of these on old L model Gravelys. I have never seen this starting system applied to anything but the old L model Gravely tractors. The Wisconsin engines were rugged beasts in their own right. I have a 1948 6 HP Wisconsin that I used to run a Quincy compressor with. The Wisconsin engines (at least the one I have) typically have a magneto ignition, magneto mounted on the outside of the crankcase. Either a Fairbanks-Morse or Wico mag was used. The old Gravely used the same magnetos (Wico, F-M, and some few got Scintilla mags). As such, there is no charging system for a battery. When the Gravely is not in use, the battery has to be put on charge with a battery charger. Kind of a downside if you have an old/weak battery and are out in the field and stall the engine. There is a projecting stub of threads sticking out the side of the sprocket hub on this type starter clutch. This was to hook on a 'starting strap' rather than a rope, so you could pull-start the engine. Interesting little tractor, having 'joystick' steering rather than a steering wheel. The overall little orange tractor looks quite well built, and may use a narrowed automotive rear end. It is a far cry from the lightly-built mass-produced riding mowers and so-called 'lawn tractors' sold as consumer goods today.
The photos of the aftermarket kits for converting Ford cars to run in snow were a fairly common item. These kits were made for both Model T and Model A Fords. Another common item was a kit to convert a car or light truck into a tractor. I believe Sears, Roebuck (or Simpson-Sears in Canada ?) sold these kits. The kits had steel rear wheels with grousers. Some people call them 'lugs' or 'cleats' or 'calks'- this latter being a term used on draft horse shoes. The rear wheels had a cast iron ring gear with internal teeth. Pinions were fitted to the axle shafts on the rear end, and these drove the ring gears in the rear wheels. This gave a deep reduction for tractor work. Another item used in car-to-tractor conversions was the "Garford" auxliiary transmission. I saw a few of these on old Ford A's and T's out in a rancher's iron pile in Wyoming in the late 1970's. The Garford (if I remember the name right) was a simple two-speed auxiliary transmission. One gear for the road (probably 1:1) and a deep reduction gear for hard pulling/slow speed without lugging the engine. There were numerous kits available to convert Ford cars and light trucks into a variety of other things. Sitting outside the little museum in our town is a road roller conversion on a Model A Ford. It was a factory built conversion kit. It's been let go for too long, so will never run again unless some dedicated soul decides to take this on as a project. No maker's name on the kit parts that I could see.
Any time I work on our older equipment here at home, I think of how this sort of thing is approaching extinction. Things like knowing to lightly rap a carburetor bowl with a screwdriver handle to get the float needle to seat after things were laid up for a few months... knowing how to tweak the idle and needle jet screws in cold or warm weather... recognizing when a carburetor is setup too rich or too lean.... cleaning and setting ignition points (and having a genuine point file and flexible point stone and point grease in my tool chest).... cleaning and regapping spark plugs... setting valve lash... cutting a gasket from a thin carton.... repairing tire chains..... repacking bearings and setting the preload.... it's all the kind of thing people did routinely as suburban or rural homeowners or farmers. Now, light power equipment like lawn mowers and riding mowers and snowblowers are built with a short life expectancy and a throw-away design philosophy. Carburetors are built with fixed adjustments so there is usually no tweaking idle and main jet adjustments. Lightly built 'plug and play' equipment is the rule.
I taught our son to drive maybe 16-17 years back on a Dodge Ram pickup I owned at the time. 5 speed manual transmission. I had him driving on narrow dirt backroads, making 'broken U turns' when the roads ended or snow on unmaintained roads was too deep to continue on. I taught our son what 'lugging an engine' is about, and a lot more that he picked up along the way as it rubbed off on him. Our son came home from attending a public event and told us of a little encounter in the parking lot. He had left the event and was walking in the parking lot when one of my buddies spotted him and called him over. It seems my buddy and his wife were in a car with a weak battery and manual transmission. My buddy asked my son to help him bump start the car. My buddy's wife was at the wheel, and my son and my buddy pushed the car out of the parking spot in the lot and got it rolling along. My buddy's wife popped the clutch in second gear and the engine fired right up.
My son thought it was kind of a funny experience. I told him this was a fairly normal thing in the 50's and 60's, and told him that when cars had 'real bumpers' and manual transmissions, being asked to give another motorist a push with your car or pickup was commonplace. I also told my son how, if you had a car, truck, or tractor with a weak battery and a somewhat flat wallet, you tried to park with the nose facing downhill. You chocked the wheels, as a precaution. Pull the chocks, hop in the driver's seat, and let gravity replace the weak battery for cranking the engine. Ir was all stuff we knew and took for granted. Now, it's uncommon, and I am glad our son knows some of it. I fear the new generations are a lot more helpless than our generations, and if they can't solve it with a 'smart phone' or iPad, they are screwed, dead in the water.