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How big did ya go?

I went 40X50 with 16' sidewall. Wish I would have gone 40X80 but I wouldn't have been able to do the concrete right away.


It seems like everyone has their own opinion on the subject of ground contact wood. But some of the engineers I talked to said the treated wood to dirt is the best. Even those sleeves will get water in them and when they do there is no way out and the post will rot way faster than if it was in just dirt.
 
Socket Systems, LLC under New Ownership - Manufacturing the Lumber Link Metal Joinery Building System | Send2Press Newswire

the website is hacked, but you can see it in the linked above.

"Rodger" was the inventor, since sold and moved the business.
spoke with him a couple of times.....:nutter:

The main "socket" is the hinged base plate for the bottom of the pole.

Keeps it out of the dirt/concrete altogether.

Also, you really don't need treated posts then.


If you are going to build a building with all the expenses of a building, it makes no sense to use less than the best solution for the basic framing.

Tom
 
Couple of recent pics. Starting to hang the lights and get some electrical going.

Went with 200 watt led's. Electrician said based on ceiling height and the cone of these lights 8 of them should light it up very nicely.

Also probably gonna get me a new compressor. Got pricing on a Kaeser SM10 Aircenter. Not cheap, but with a combined 9 cnc's we're gonna need some serious air.

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If you are going to build a building with all the expenses of a building, it makes no sense to use less than the best solution for the basic framing.

Tom

Uhm...Doo you use pressure treated in your girts/purlins ? and the trusses ?

Using the socket, the bottom of the wood pole is at least 2" above the
grade, more so if you put your sonotubes (or other formwork)
up higher.
 
Uhm...Doo you use pressure treated in your girts/purlins ? and the trusses ?

Using the socket, the bottom of the wood pole is at least 2" above the
grade, more so if you put your sonotubes (or other formwork)
up higher.

No, just where protection is needed, as in the posts.

For anything is contact with the ground I would use "treated to resist" which means that the wood has been pressure treated to the point where the wood will take no more. I have some steps in direct contact with the ground that are 30 years old and have no deterioration what so ever. Other timbers that were "treated" were gone is 5 years.

Tom
 
210 feet of square d I-line 3p4w 400A bus duct. Plus the end box some big ass conduit + hangers and hardware.

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Well, just update us in Zeptember if you figgered it out yet with all that buss line.


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Well, just update us in Zeptember if you figgered it out yet with all that buss line.


-----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
lol, I couldn't hear ya [emoji6]. Might be a bit noisy with all that tin in there. It's on the ceiling too. Guess we'll find out soon enough.

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Nice looking place there Chip...............


You guys were talkin' bout post rot on old buildings................back in the late 70s and early 80s, lots of pole buildings had problems. Seems they didn't quite have green treat figured out yet. I know many a farmer who had posts replaced in sheds built in that time period. They say the new stuff will last forever, but I still don't like anything in contact with the ground other than concrete. My place is a floating slab and then stick built. O'course the bottom plate is green treat...........................I'm contemplating steel for the next build.:scratchchin:

As far as being loud.................not really. It's loud when you just put up the liner steel. But once you stack it full of machines, benches, and other junk, it's no different than any other building.
 
Thanks, that's good to hear, or not lol!

Is your ceiling tinned also?

I think I'll be long gone before that building has any troubles.

When the poles were set concrete was put at the bottom of each hole.

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