Need advice for pulling this lever off of lathe gearbox

[jackal]

I bought this lathe a while back and it has some feed problems.
This handle needs to come off to get into the gearbox.
Can someone tell me if that center threaded hole is a puller hole?
I've seen these types of levers on machines, but never really thought about it.
I removed the 2 large set screws, and it looks like someone has already ran a short set screw in there and it fell sideways.
Looking at the covers and plates, it's obvious that it's been apart before.

Thanks for any info.

 

[jackal]

 

[john.k]

Dont know the machine,but I think its likely to have spring loaded detent balls in those holes.

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

Is it possible the lever assembly comes off with the access plate? I was into one of my lathe gearboxes a couple months ago, the lever came off with access plate. Only way to remove the lever was from the inside.

 

[jackal]

Is it possible the lever assembly comes off with the access plate? I was into one of my lathe gearboxes a couple months ago, the lever came off with access plate. Only way to remove the lever was from the inside.

There is an aluminum threading chart behind this lever.
The chart has to come off to expose the socket head bolts for removing the plate.

 

[jackal]

Dont know the machine,but I think its likely to have spring loaded detent balls in those holes.

I wondered about that no springs or steel balls inside.
Looks like someone just slapped it back together.

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

Have you tried some gentle prying on both sides at the same time, ie the 2 screwdriver method? That got one of my levers off, but I did not have an aluminum data plate in the way.

 

[Bill D]

here is a JET. 14x40 lathe. see page 23.
Bill D

https://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/322830_man_EN.pdf

 

[jackal]

I may try that with some aluminum pieces under it to keep from scratching the plate.

 

[jackal]

here is a JET. 14x40 lathe. see page 23.
Bill D

https://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/322830_man_EN.pdf

Bill,
That's the brand of this lathe, but it has a little bit different set up.
Thanks for the file, it will help on another lever that I haven't removed ,yet.

 

[jackal]

Thanks for all the advice.
This morning, I went left -right several times with the lever and it twisted off.
Look like those large screws with the detent balls are supposed to limit the movement.
Without the balls/springs in there, thr lever was turned past the normal limited position.
I'll post later once it is apart.
Thanks again.

 

[Bill D]

Since the balls and springs are lost I will chime in and say you can make a brass rod of the correct diameter and round over the end. Then turn the shank down so the spring fits over it. It ends up looking like a mushroom.
Springs I have found some in single lever faucet seal kits. Ball point pens are usually too small for much.
Bill D

 

[jackal]

Since the balls and springs are lost I will chime in and say you can make a brass rod of the correct diameter and round over the end. Then turn the shank down so the spring fits over it. It ends up looking like a mushroom.
Springs I have found some in single lever faucet seal kits. Ball point pens are usually too small for much.
Bill D

Thanks Bill.
I will probably make some of those 'mushroom pins'.
I have a box of old springs that I think I can cut down to make the ones I need.

 

[jackal]

Most springs, most places, were selected from 'stock items', not custom-made.

If No Joy in yer "Hell box", and since it could last AGES if done well, it could be worth the effort of an order:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

They "have balls", too..

Yeah, It might be easier r to just add to my next McMaster order.

 

[Bill D]

Thermite one reason for my suggestion of using brass is if it gets messed up it will not do too much damage to the irrplacable machine parts it fits into. Much safer choice then a hardened ball bearing. Especially true when there are no real plans to measure up the new parts being made to fit.
Bill D

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

Thermite one reason for my suggestion of using brass is if it gets messed up it will not do too much damage to the irrplacable machine parts it fits into. Much safer choice then a hardened ball bearing. Especially true when there are no real plans to measure up the new parts being made to fit.
Bill D

Its divots in a steel plate, as for size, measure the hole, choose a ball bearing and spring that fits the hole closely.

 

[Bill D]

True on the lack of wear now. But I would rather pull a brass pin out and make a new one on the bench then have to kneel down and drill/ream/make/install a new seat or bushing and risk gettting swarf into the gearbox.
Bill D

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

True on the lack of wear now. But I would rather pull a brass pin out and make a new one on the bench then have to kneel down and drill/ream/make/install a new seat or bushing and risk gettting swarf into the gearbox.
Bill D

The divots are not inside the gearbox, they are behind the lever, on the outer surface of the access plate. In a worst case scenario, you take the access plate off and repair it on the mill, or just fab up a new one.

 

[MrStretch]

If the original pieces are missing it doesn't really matter what you replace them with as long as it works in the end. Personally, I would try to make new parts before mail ordering some potentially useless parts because a babbling AI told me to.
Yes, brass will wear faster but who cares? There is absolutely no fault in carefully considering how your alterations will affect existing hard to replace/replicate original parts.