- Mar 12, 2002
Thanks Daryl, I'm interested in where/how you made the transition between the 2 colors, at the bottom/sides of the apron. Any chance you have pictures of that?I did the front in the primary color, but the back in a a more common spray can paint color. I knew there was a very good reason for this but I can't remember now. View attachment 384512View attachment 384513
On the 10ee these are not holding the worm gear directly, as they may on some larger lathes. In essence, Its sort of guiding the feed rod. However the feed rod is holding up the worm gear, which in turn mates with worm wheel.Guys, what should these bushings measure? Need to know if I need to turn new ones.
Feed rod is .750, so as you can see, these are really warn. I’ll plan to rebush to .754On the 10ee these are not holding the worm gear directly, as they may on some larger lathes. In essence, Its sort of guiding the feed rod. However the feed rod is holding up the worm gear, which in turn mates with worm wheel.
So you'd like a decent fit to feed rod (the entire length of which may vary slightly). I might aim for a .002" to .003" oil clearance on that bushing to feed rod, checking how it feels the entire length of feed rod.
A little more clearance than that may be ok, but if bushing felt overly sloppy on feed rod, I'd re-bush it. In part because you want good full contact of worm gear to worm wheel. If overly sloppy, worm gear might be forced downward away from worm wheel slightly.
Another fyi, if taper pins hold that in, you may lose a little oil clearance once they are hammered in, so maybe .003" to .004" clearance prior to taper pins.
A little, but not muchBased on the way it works, I would expect the bushing to wear at the bottom, making it egg shaped. Is it out of round?
That makes sense too. I did not have it reground. Maybe I should just leave em?I would be careful here. If the bed and saddle are worn the apron will be lower, so making bushes might cause the carriage to bind.
If you've had a regrind and turcite under the saddle to bring it back up to the original position, yes, make new bushes with a nice running fit.
Incidentally on CVA's the feed rod diameter was increased from 3/4" to 13/16" on later (Mk1a series 3) machines.
Do long bed 10EEs have larger feed rods?
Time has taught me nothing in life is absolutely certain , but I'm pretty sure many were one piece originally, though maybe not the case 100% across the board.Are you sure the brass bushings are not original?
Thanks Daryl. Was hoping there was another method besides heat, but it is what it is.I would try to heat the assy. with a blow dryer (propane torch on the bearing if you're going to replace it) and then pound /slam the small end on a solid piece of wood. Try this first before resorting to more aggressive=damaging methods. Maybe alittle Kroil type stuff between the bearing and gear shaft wouldn't hurt.