I’d be thinking planer with a small Bridgeport head on too, I’ve seen one on a pic somewhere,
not a bad idea, can mount cam followers and rollers to a knee mill vise/table to keep bar in place when readjusting. the only issue I see is the risk of damaging a lollipop endmill since once it's in the cut, it cant be removed from the workpiece unless you're finished with the cut
It doesn't have to be. I worked with wire cutters/ straighteners at my last job.It 100% does in fact need to be round.
The wire runs into this guidebar and pushes against a rod slightly smaller than the channels diameter (.380" channel/ .375" rod). this is so the rod that itself wont fall out but the smaller diameter wire being cut will fall. That rod then trips a microswitch which triggers the machine to cut the wire. The wire that was just cut is now sitting inside the guidebar with a false floor piece of steel underneath it, that floor then moves out of the way dropping the cut piece of wire into a parts tray. These machines have been around for many many years and this design has stayed the same and I can't revolutionize this wheel and throw off every customer that comes looking for this exact design replacement part. If this was a one off machine for just me, sure.
It doesn't have to be. I worked with wire cutters/ straighteners at my last job.
We made the bars of 4140PH, milled a square slot to accommodate the size if wire, and we had spring steel clips that were part of the original machine design from the 60's. The bars had perpendicular slots milled on the underside for the clips. The clips kept the push rod from falling out when the bottom bar dropped out to release the cut piece of wire.
The slot depth for the wire was the diameter of the push rod + the thickness of the clips
The push rod was usually .050" diameter stainless tubing, with a hardened steel end we attached to it.
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If you start with an old lathe bed, you could easily mount a Bridgeport head on the cross slide.
As others have stated, use the exiting leadscrew with a VFD drive or whatever.
Then with the BP head mill the top of the webs in the bed to create a reference plane, that you could bolt a fixture in place to hold your parts, between the bedrails. Maybe much easier than trying to attache brackets to the back of the lathe.
You probably don't need full 12' length as you could index the part along your fixture quite easily, I would think.
Maybe a photo of the part would help folks better understand what you're trying to do.