What's new
What's new

New Heavy 10

IDguy

Plastic
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Hello,

I just traded a half a day's work and 100 bucks for a heavy 10 lathe. it is in beautiful shape but is covered in decades of dried oil goo. I bought the rebuild book with felts and plan to tear the whole thing apart and soak it in diesel to get rid of the goo. The serial number is just over 170K. I have already ordered a serial tag lookup from south bend.

Any advice on the teardown?

I also have a whole ton of 5C collets I got for free and I would like to use them on this lathe. Is there any good source for a collet chuck?

When I engage the back gears and run the lead screw where it brings the carriage towards the headstock it binds a backgear. Specifically the lower leftmost gear when viewed from the back of the lathe. All the others spin freely but I think this gear is tightening its own nut down on itself. Any solution?

I am pretty new to running a lathe so any advice is appreciated. I know a Heavy 10 with scrape marks still on most of the ways is a pretty nice thing so I want to take care of it.

Thanks
 
Ok. Thanks. I guess I will keep my eye out for a big spindle as that would be great for barrel work. It has a 1 inch bore right now.

Any tips as I break it down and clean it and rebuild it?

I need a drive belt for between the pulleys and the spindle. The old leather belt is super oil soaked and spongy. It works but not well. What is the best belt to get for it?
 
Any tips as I break it down and clean it and rebuild it?

Just pick an assembly and follow the rebuild book. Keep each assy parts together and note any differences between the book and what you have. Take copious amount of pics as you proceed.


What is the best belt to get for it?

A lot of people are using automotive serpentine belts glued into a continuous belt as a replacement. There is a very long thread on here on their use.

Make yourself a chip tray for your lathe. You'll thank me later!
 
The best cleaning agent to use is an industrial detergent that is an emulsifier like a truck tarp cleaner. The dried oil is difficult to remove and solvents don't do it. Spray on the cleaner in small areas at a time and wipe off with paper towers.
 
If you plan on dismantling and restoring, you might want to invest in an automotive type parts cleaner. Makes the process a LOT easier. There are numerous models out there that appear to be the same, just branded differently. I found that "Oil Eater" diluted 50/50 worked great. Even took paint off if you let the part sit overnight. It's also biodegradable and water based.
 
BTW, some people don't like the single-tumbler gearboxes.

Here's why they are wrong:
It has the same gear ratios as the regular double-tumbler gearbox
Some people say that the single tumbler box is more rugged.

Now, the wide range box, as the name says, gets you more gear ratios, but you'd have to have a much newer lathe to get that.

I believe that the rebuild manual covers both styles of gearboxes.

Steve
 
If you plan on dismantling and restoring, you might want to invest in an automotive type parts cleaner.

If you pick one up for a good price, you can use it for the lathe rebuild and then sell it.

That way your "rental" is the difference between the buy and sell prices.


Steve
 
My advice, FWIW, Don't tear it apart and rebuild it. Find out what's absolutely necessary to make it do what you need and fix only that. Defining what you need it for is the hard part. You've started off pretty well with your gear observation.

With all due respect to your intentions, rebuilding is a ton of work, even for the experienced, and if I'm interpreting your post correctly, this is your first lathe. You can rapidly (as I once did) get into some complicated stuff that takes a lot more work than anticipated.

Fix what you need to, but prioritize making chips.
 
I meant to imply, in a humorous way, that hundreds of us are now envious of you. I regret my original post, as it could easily be misinterpreted, despite the smiley face icon.

Yan, no need to clarify anything. Unless we have some members dumber than a box of rocks:D (doubt it) I think we all "got it". I know I was one of the "envious ones" and chuckling profusely when I read your OP. I little humor once in awhile is a good thing and appreciated. It is the "other" that drives folks away, so NO worries Yan:)
 
Instead of a complete disassembly, I would suggest a cosmetic cleanup. Then spend some time getting familiar with the lathe. The glued serpentine works well, but a continuous belt works best. Carbide tools waste your time. A tangental tool holder in an AXA tool post works a charm.
 
QUITE "I need a drive belt for between the pulleys and the spindle. The old leather belt is super oil soaked and spongy"

Leather belts work good {new ones} South Bends have run for years and years with leather belts, several ways to join them like lacing or clipper hooks and pin or glued splice..
 
Ok. Thanks. The reason I want to tear this thing down is that there is dried oil inside stuff like the compound and the micrometer stop and other parts. It isn't for cosmetic reasons but so that the damn things work without needing Mongo strength to work them.

I have owned two lathes before this but this is the first one that is actually in really nice shape.

Thanks for all the advice.

Oh, I found the modern specs for the lubricating oils I need but my local petroleum supply will only sell them in 5 gallon buckets. Is there anywhere to get them in a bit smaller quantities?
 
Yan, no need to clarify anything. Unless we have some members dumber than a box of rocks:D (doubt it) I think we all "got it". I know I was one of the "envious ones" and chuckling profusely when I read your OP. I little humor once in awhile is a good thing and appreciated. It is the "other" that drives folks away, so NO worries Yan:)

Thanks very much! I feel better now. :)
 
Ok. Thanks. The reason I want to tear this thing down is that there is dried oil inside stuff like the compound and the micrometer stop and other parts. It isn't for cosmetic reasons but so that the damn things work without needing Mongo strength to work them.

I have owned two lathes before this but this is the first one that is actually in really nice shape.

Thanks for all the advice.

Oh, I found the modern specs for the lubricating oils I need but my local petroleum supply will only sell them in 5 gallon buckets. Is there anywhere to get them in a bit smaller quantities?

The advice to not tear down is misguided, especially for a machine that hasn't been used in quite a while and has dried oil all over it. South Bend's 10L and 10R lathes use a wicking system to get oil to where it is needed. If your wicks are caked/clogged up with dried oil, your machine could be oil starved and rapidly damaged by use. Unfortunately, the only way to get to these wicks is to tear the machine down.

I bought all four oils from Enco, now MSC, so you should still be able to get the gallon jugs from them. Also try McMaster.
 








 
Back
Top