New to me 1961 Bridgeport

[shpxnvz]

I've been watching local ads for a few years now for a decent knee mill. I'm new to machining and looking for one for hobby use and a little repair work on farm equipment, so I figure even a well worn machine ought to do fine for me to replace the unmentionable overseas POS benchtop mill I got before I knew any better. I'm usually too late for the decent deals that show up around here, but I managed to spot a CL listing right after it was posted a couple of days ago and ended up first in line. Not too much info in the ad but it said the mill came with a rotary table, vise and some tooling, so after talking with the owner on the phone for a bit I told him I'd take it for the $1000 asking price.

Next morning I rented a small tilt-bed trailer from the local sunbelt and drove the 2 hours to the seller's place. Met with the guy selling it, a real nice retired gentleman who is getting on in years and was selling all his machines and tools to downsize. The history he told me was that the mill was originally in the shop he worked at, and when they closed it down many years ago he bought it from them along with his DoAll bandsaw, hydraulic press and some other machines. The serial number makes it a 1961 machine, but it sounds like it was rebuilt at some point. He was also selling a gorgeous line-shaft driven SB 9" that I'd guess is from the '10s or early '20s, but I didn't have enough cash on hand to bring that home too. The BP motor and spindle ran very quiet with no weird noises. The mill has a one-shot oiler and it looked like all the way and spindle surfaces I could see were well covered with clean oil. Even though there's a decent amount of wear, I think that he's taken good care of it while he's had it.

I had figured that even if the mill was barely useable, it would still be a good deal for around here with the rotary table and vise. Turns out there was quite a bit more included with it than I thought. I've got to grab some pictures off my phone and will post them up tomorrow.

I'm pretty thrilled to finally have a workable mill, though I'm still pretty anxious that I'll find something broken or too worn or whatever. Will be a few days before I can get the mill cleaned a bit and a VFD wired up, so I guess I won't know more until then. Oh, I also think that the head and maybe ram were replaced at some point based on mismatched paint and a serial that seems newer. Is there a serial number list for heads I can use to try to date it?

His photo from the listing:

 

[IronReb]

It may have wear here and there but unless it is just beat to shit it can make good parts.
There are ways to deal with backlash, worn gibs etc.
As time goes by and you start using this mill we all here will more than happy to help you get the most out of your mill.

I have made plenty of parts using the dial on the machine, dials and indicators are plenty accurate but can be a PITA and its very easy to lose count on a dial
and forget just how many revolutions you just turned it.

Save up and get yourself a decent DRO if it doesn't have one, you will LOVE a DRO.
A simple DRO that just has position is great, one that had bolt hole function is the bomb and worth the extra money IMHO.

 

[fish123]

Congratulations!
I went through much the same, looked for years, very little manufacturing around here, so not much machinery shows up for sale.

Mine is a 1962.
Added a DRO, and a VFD.
30 years later, it needs something done in the head, very noisy in the lowest speed range.

bport lowgear noise - YouTube

Otherwise, great, hope to use it for a few more decades.
Frank

 

[IronReb]

Fish
When running in low range try prying up just a little on that top lever and see if the noise stops.
Its no uncommon due to wear in the cam action of this type of lever for the assembly to drop down to low causing the back gears to rub.
If you can make the noise go away by gently prying up on the top lever you will have to figure out what has worn and what to do to correct it.

 

[shpxnvz]

Thanks guys, appreciate it. I'm really excited, though I'm know I'm going to need lots of help learning how to use it well.

I got some pictures uploaded that I took after getting it home.

The column ways look pretty good (I think), pretty much all the flaking is still there from when they rebuilt it.

Y ways are pretty worn towards the front and middle. Guess I'll find out soon enough how big a deal that is.

Head shot...

 

[IronReb]

That machine looks pretty damn decent.
One thing I might would do just because is chant for Richard King 4 times in a row in hopes he will chim in.

He could offer the best advice to make sure gibs are adjusted to their best.

That scale on the X axis is a nice little feature.
I would cobble up something on the saddle to make a pointer for it.
Would help keep track of X axis movements.

Say you need to move 14.500" from point A to B.
Zero your dial.
Move your pointer to closest round number on the scale.
Crank away till you move desired amount (.200 per rev if I remember right)
Double check against your scale to make sure you didn't lose or gain a rev on dial...drill hole.

 

[shpxnvz]

That machine looks pretty damn decent.
One thing I might would do just because is chant for Richard King 4 times in a row in hopes he will chim in.

He could offer the best advice to make sure gibs are adjusted to their best.

That scale on the X axis is a nice little feature.
I would cobble up something on the saddle to make a pointer for it.
Would help keep track of X axis movements.

Say you need to move 14.500" from point A to B.
Zero your dial.
Move your pointer to closest round number on the scale.
Crank away till you move desired amount (.200 per rev if I remember right)
Double check against your scale to make sure you didn't lose or gain a rev on dial...drill hole.

Actually it already has adjustable pointers on the X and Y! Just couldn't see them in the last pic. I figured they were probably standard equipment since they seem pretty useful.

It's going to be quite a while before I'll be able to buy a DRO, but for future reference what are some good used setups to keep an eye out for?

 

[shpxnvz]

I thought I'd post some pictures of the tooling and accessories that I've gone through so far. There are a few things that I'm not familiar with, so maybe some of you experienced guys can fill me in.

From the listing, these were the rotary table and vise I was expecting to get.

The rotary table is a 12" Bridgeport model that's pretty dirty but seems to be in good condition - the table and all knobs and levers operate real smooth.

I'm not sure on the make of the vise, but it feels pretty solid and weighs about 60 pounds. Any ideas on who made it?

And I got a surprise with the rest of this stuff coming along with it too...

First is a Bridgeport shaper head on the back end of the ram; I haven't tried to run it but it's supposed to be in good condition.

X-axis power feed that's all functional.

Universal Vise and Tool 3-way angle vise. This is really cool and I know it will come in handy.

Smaller "No. 21" vise that I'm also unsure of the make?

A big old Van Norman vise.

This "Daum POLY DRP" vise stamped "Made in Germany". Not sure what this is for, maybe someone can enlighten me?

This little Palmgren vise.

A Sorenson collet square which I think will be useful.

Small and large Bridgeport boring heads.

Bunch of drill chucks - an Albrecht 1/2", Jacobs superchucks from 3/8" up to 1", and another unmarked keyless chuck.

Some angle plates.

Horizontal milling attachment.

And a Taiwanese spindex.

And here she is in her new space...

I've still got 3 buckets of bits and pieces I have to go through as well. Lots of end mills, saws, arbors, etc...

 

[Hodge]

You, my friend, have made out like a bandit. Good find

 

[M.B. Naegle]

Compaired to our bridgeports ways, yours are pristeen. Ours are worn through the flaking and scored in some places but with the gibs adjusted and dro's to help you see when something shifts, they still hold decent tolerance.

 

[M.B. Naegle]

And I'm 99% sure that the first vice is an original Bridgeport. The name would be cast above the screw bearing but it looks like it was ground off.

 

[JohnEvans]

You will need 2 VFDs to run both the shaper head and main spindle. Better off with a rotary converter. When going through the tooling keep a eye out for the shaper cutters. Look on ebay for what they look like. Your tooling package is worth more than you paid for everything.
That "Daum" vise is for gripping odd shaped items , I'm jelious !!

 

[Oldwrench]

Those are chromed ways, a good option, as is that 12" crossfeed. With all those accessories you'll be able to do just about anything.

 

[k2man]

DAMN! That old guy was sure good to you. I wouldn't have blinked if he said $2000. You'll have a lot of fun with that. I've got a 60's J2J - compared to what I was trying to "machine" with (drill press and xy table) this will make you wonder why it took you so long to get one. I do have an great x-y DRO and a cheap z DRO, and a VFD ($150) that make it nicer, but what you've got will cut a lot of metal and make you smile! Great find!

 

[shpxnvz]

And I'm 99% sure that the first vice is an original Bridgeport. The name would be cast above the screw bearing but it looks like it was ground off.

Ah, thanks. I think you're right, it looks real similar to ones that come up in a google search. I also poked around and I think I identified the smaller one as a Brown & Sharpe No. 21 4" Vise.

You will need 2 VFDs to run both the shaper head and main spindle. Better off with a rotary converter. When going through the tooling keep a eye out for the shaper cutters. Look on ebay for what they look like. Your tooling package is worth more than you paid for everything.
That "Daum" vise is for gripping odd shaped items , I'm jelious !!

Sadly I'm stuck using the VFD for the moment since I don't have a 220v line to the garage. I have a 120v input 220v output VFD that I use on a 3/4HP drill press. It's rated to 1HP, and while I know it should be rated higher for a 1HP motor my underdstanding was that it should work ok but at lower power. If I'm totally wrong and will risk damaging the motor, though, I'd like to hear about it before I do something stupid!

The fellow told me the shaper head ran on 120V single phase, but the motor plate is painted over so I'm not sure. It does have a regular 5-15 plug on it so that's a good sign.

 

[shpxnvz]

DAMN! That old guy was sure good to you. I wouldn't have blinked if he said $2000. You'll have a lot of fun with that. I've got a 60's J2J - compared to what I was trying to "machine" with (drill press and xy table) this will make you wonder why it took you so long to get one. I do have an great x-y DRO and a cheap z DRO, and a VFD ($150) that make it nicer, but what you've got will cut a lot of metal and make you smile! Great find!

Yeah, he definitely was. Around here a decent mill by itself seems to start around $2000 with plenty upwards of $3000. When he started pulling all the tools and things out and handing them to me I couldn't believe it. To be honest I didn't feel right taking all the extra stuff and insisted he take the rest of the cash I had with me, though that wasn't much. He was pretty happy about that.

Sounds like you are happy with the DRO's you have - what kind are they?

 

[JRIowa]

If I'm totally wrong and will risk damaging the motor, though, I'd like to hear about it before I do something stupid!

The VFD needs to be rated at motor HP or above. You won't hurt the motor, but you'll fry the VFD.

The J head has a 1hp motor. You can get a 115VAC input 220, 3 phase output VFD for $130 with an IP-20 enclosure. You have to mount the IP20 enclosure in a clean place away from chips. A NEMA 4 is about $70 more. VFD | Teco | Hitachi | Motor Controls | Dealers Electric

Go here and get a manual. http://kneemills.com/index.asp?html=Documentation

If the 6F control does not work, there are guys that have rebuilt for far less than a new Servo.

IMHO, ditch the 2 big vises and get a Kurt.

Somebody has converted the oiling system ~ that's good.

I think it was SPI that sold the scales. The mill probably had length bars or BP optics at one time. Note the 2 dowel pins in the middle of the saddle.

That blue paint is ugly!
JR

 

[shpxnvz]

The VFD needs to be rated at motor HP or above. You won't hurt the motor, but you'll fry the VFD.

The J head has a 1hp motor. You can get a 115VAC input 220, 3 phase output VFD for $130 with an IP-20 enclosure. You have to mount the IP20 enclosure in a clean place away from chips. A NEMA 4 is about $70 more. VFD | Teco | Hitachi | Motor Controls | Dealers Electric

the TECO I have is rated for 1HP so it sounds like it will work ok.

That blue paint is ugly!
JR

Hah! I thought the same thing, but when my wife saw the machine all she said was "at least it's a pretty color." That's probably how it got to be blue in the first place.

 

[shpxnvz]

I went through the 3 buckets of tooling I got with the mill last night.

First bucket was a bunch of different arbors, end mill holders, a couple of fly cutters, and some collets. I'm not sure what the Cincinnati plate at the top left is for, guessing it's for workholding. Also no idea what the one on the far left is for, the one with graduations stamped in it?

Next bucket had some end mills, all U.S. made from what I can see. Some look to be brand new, most are well used.

And last was a bucket of cutters and saws, and a lot of arbor spacers in various thicknesses. Also all U.S. made and a lot of it looks barely used. I think there's a cutter for just about any project I can imagine.

The fourth bucket had another complete collect set and about 30 pounds of clamping stuff. Didn't bother to get a picture.

 

[shpxnvz]

VFD is wired and the spindle is running fine. Got the head trammed best I could and made a quick test cut on a block of 6061. Cut like it wasn't even there, much different from the little toy mill I've been using until now.

I hit a bit of an issue, though. I kicked on the 6F power feed to test it, and while it ran ok after a few seconds I got smoke from the power cable going to the motor. Looking closely the outer jacket got hot enough to melt/smoke where it enters the motor housing. Double checked a circuit diagram to make sure I was giving the controller the right input power, no problem there.

So I'm going to have to pull off and inspect the motor/wiring, but curious if anyone had run across this before or had suggestions? Google hasn't turned anything up for me so far.