New to me 1962 10 EE, troubleshooting and repair

[medic29]

Getting some new paint. The other layers needed to come off. This probably isn't close to original, but I kind of like it. Shout out to Sherwin Williams for help with the paint. We'll see how it wears. It will be awhile before it fully cures. [emoji4]

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[rabler]

I did a slight upgrade the other day, might be temporary, but for now this is the route I'm going. Replaced the two fuses with circuit breakers. Decided to do this after blowing both fuses while performing some trouble shooting trying to solve some phase issues.

I did things so that I can easily put the fuse holder and fuses back in place. No new holes were made or anything. [emoji4]
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Just be aware that both fuses and breakers come in different options for slow vs fast blow. Fuses typically tend toward the fast blow option in machine electronics. If you put in breakers that are common breakers that just match the fuse rated current without looking at the trip curve (fast vs slow, etc), that may not actually protect the electronics.

 

[medic29]

Just be aware that both fuses and breakers come in different options for slow vs fast blow. Fuses typically tend toward the fast blow option in machine electronics. If you put in breakers that are common breakers that just match the fuse rated current without looking at the trip curve (fast vs slow, etc), that may not actually protect the electronics.

Yeah I did check that. The breakers are fast blow breakers.

Initially didn't realize there was a difference until checking into all of this. I've been told the fuses for this lathe were originally slow blow but I haven't seen that in the manual.

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[Desmato]

While talking with Tim we discovered another issue.

Anyone care to guess what the issue is???


Yep, I've got the wrong transformers for T6 and T7 since I'm running my lathe on 220v, as such the input of these transformers should be 220-240v. It is believed this lathe may have originally been setup to run on 440v, so more checking is being done to see if I may have other components that are expecting 440v and are only receiving 220v. I'm not sure there are, but the process continues.

Tim is AWESOME !!! I just upgraded to his C16J replacements and the control box. OUT with the old ! He and I talked at quite some length about the conversion and he was always available to answer any questions or concerns. I too had the 400/500V T6 & 7 which was the ultimate reason I pulled the trigger sooner than later. At the going rate for a single used C16J tube, you could replace both and the module plus have beer $$
DON'T Hesitate to use his products, they are top notch (as is HE) and work flawlessly. I just wish he'd make the C3J replacement soon (Are you listening Tim ?) as either mine is going or I have an intermittent issue.

BTW, If your lathe suddenly starts to take off into orbit, the C3J is likely dark. I've watched mine turn off and the spindle tried to turn into one of those new fangled 10k rpm CNC types. Best be ready to turn it off asap, especially if you have a chuck mounted !

 

[m-lud]

I recently picked up a lathe I had been wanting for quite some time, a Monarch 10 EE, it was manufactured 06/1962 and is a square dial machine. I was told it would run on single phase 220v. When I went to pick it up, they wired it up to 3 phase 220v and it ran well. I had been told it was supposed to have a max speed of 4000 RPM, but would max out around 1800 RPM. It seems like it had a higher RPM when I ran it prior to getting it loaded when I picked it up, but after I got it home it doesn't seem to go any faster than 1800 RPM. Initially I did wire it to single phase 220v and it ran, but ended up wiring it up to 3 phase 220v to see if that would make any difference in RPMs, but it didn't.

View attachment 325769 View attachment 325770

Most things work as they should as far as I've been able to tell with exception of the max RPMs, although it seems there is an issue with the dynamic breaking. I decided to open up all of the various compartments to look at things and see if I can see anything obvious which needs addressed. Well... View attachment 325772 View attachment 325773

So it appears I need to replace some wiring. But...I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to replace the wire which leads to the top of that tube?

As always, I am open to comments, suggestions, or ideas.

My wire on the tube looks similar. I'm going to cut the old connector off and brush antioxidant electrical grease on it and shrink a couple layers of shrink insulation on it. I don't know if there is something else to kill the advance of the oxidation before re insulating it. Maybe lightly brush length ways with a small brass brush to clean off the loose oxidation. Taking care not to pull on the wire. It works now but the wires do need attention.
I bought a couple good heavy-duty connectors to replace the old ones. Buy good connectors and get a good crimp. No automotive grade connectors.

I don't know if putting Jb weld or similar epoxy around where the wire goes in the tube would help. It may get hot
Edit
I think I answered an older post. Sorry about that.. I answered twice

 

[brushpile90]

What transformer did you use as a replacement? And how did it work. Mine just shorted out.

 

[medic29]

What transformer did you use as a replacement? And how did it work. Mine just shorted out.

Sorry, I just saw this. Let me know which transformer and I'll let you know. Was it T-4??