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New to me DoAll G-14 Surface Grinder

Typical, get a good price and they hide it. If they made good money you can bet they'd publish the shit out of it. What did you give for it if you don't mind? Should be a good grinder if it's in good shape, DoAll is a pretty solid machine.

Here's a manual if you don't have one already:

$300. $372 with tax and commission.

Thanks for the manual.
When I did the inspection on the unit, the cross feed wheel did not move the table. It was in hydraulic mode. Any ideas on how to switch it to manual mode?
 
$300. $372 with tax and commission.

Thanks for the manual.
When I did the inspection on the unit, the cross feed wheel did not move the table. It was in hydraulic mode. Any ideas on how to switch it to manual mode?

Thanks, great deal! Was the machine running? Generally on hydraulic machines there's an oil feed that splits the nut to disengage the cross feed screw/handle when the table is moving. May be stuck if that's what it is. Or I suppose you could have a stripped out nut, but I think that's not likely. Probably will have to take a look inside if it won't work with the machine under power.
 
Thanks, great deal! Was the machine running? Generally on hydraulic machines there's an oil feed that splits the nut to disengage the cross feed screw/handle when the table is moving. May be stuck if that's what it is. Or I suppose you could have a stripped out nut, but I think that's not likely. Probably will have to take a look inside if it won't work with the machine under power.
Yes it’s running.

Thanks I’ll check those out.
 
Yes it’s running.

Thanks I’ll check those out.
@eKretz i just did another inspection. The cross feed hand wheel is definitely not moving the table. You think it’s an easy fix? The handle on the right should be the cross feed mode selector, with forward being manual mode.
 
@eKretz i just did another inspection. The cross feed hand wheel is definitely not moving the table. You think it’s an easy fix? The handle on the right should be the cross feed mode selector, with forward being manual mode.

Maybe. Could just be sticking. I just looked in your manual and it is clearly a nut that disengages with hydraulic pressure. Pulling the lever should allow pressurized oil flow to the piston and move the half nut away from the screw, disengaging it. Pushing the lever blocks the oil flow and a spring will bring the nut back into engagement with the screw. The pistons on these circuits generally have a bypass that allows the pressure to leak down within a few seconds after the pressurized oil flow is blocked.

My guess is that something is sticking. Probably going to have to pull it apart, clean and lubricate. Check that half nut for wear while you're in there. The manual also mentions an adjustment for lash that probably moves the nut closer to the screw when the piston is bottomed out.

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Maybe. Could just be sticking. I just looked in your manual and it is clearly a nut that disengages with hydraulic pressure. Pulling the lever should allow pressurized oil flow to the piston and move the half nut away from the screw, disengaging it. Pushing the lever blocks the oil flow and a spring will bring the nut back into engagement with the screw. The pistons on these circuits generally have a bypass that allows the pressure to leak down within a few seconds after the pressurized oil flow is blocked.

My guess is that something is sticking. Probably going to have to pull it apart, clean and lubricate. Check that half nut for wear while you're in there. The manual also mentions an adjustment for lash that probably moves the nut closer to the screw when the piston is bottomed out.

View attachment 389244
Would I take the table off to access it?

The hydraulic pump also sounds low on fluid. I’ll get it home, open everything up and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
Would I take the table off to access it?

The hydraulic pump also sounds low on fluid. I’ll get it home, open everything up and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for all your help.

Probably not. You'll likely have to go in through the front or rear inside the guts of the machine. I haven't had to work on one of these before, but on my Brown & Sharpe, (which has a similar type of hydraulic crossfeed nut disengagement) to get to the nut I went through the back side of the upright behind the spindle IIRC. Your machine may be different. You're going to have to look for where the nut is at (the cross feed screw goes through it, so just follow that and you'll see it) and see how you can best reach it. The nut on my machine was full circle (has top half nut and bottom half nut, split in the middle) around the screw so I removed the screw first. Since yours is just a half nut you might not have to do that. And you're welcome, happy to help a bit.
 
Hey all, anyone have an idea of how the table and saddle come off this specific surface grinder?
 
Looking at the manual again, it shows a gear rack on the hydraulic diagram. That tells me that the table will likely lift straight off after you disconnect the attachment point for the table cylinder. Run the table out to one end or the other and look up underneath to find where that point is. In the diagram it appears that it would be at the right end. After that's disconnected you ought to be able to lift the table straight off. It may have a little suction due to oil on the ways.

The saddle is another story. You may have to remove any of the screws/shafts passing through it and may have to disconnect lube and/or hydraulic lines, linkages and other similar items. I haven't had this particular machine apart, so I can only give general guidelines. You'll have to look carefully and pay close attention to anything that looks like it might hang you up.
 
Looking at the manual again, it shows a gear rack on the hydraulic diagram. That tells me that the table will likely lift straight off after you disconnect the attachment point for the table cylinder. Run the table out to one end or the other and look up underneath to find where that point is. In the diagram it appears that it would be at the right end. After that's disconnected you ought to be able to lift the table straight off. It may have a little suction due to oil on the ways.

The saddle is another story. You may have to remove any of the screws/shafts passing through it and may have to disconnect lube and/or hydraulic lines, linkages and other similar items. I haven't had this particular machine apart, so I can only give general guidelines. You'll have to look carefully and pay close attention to anything that looks like it might hang you up.
That work. You are the man. Thanks a ton.
 
Can you recommend a Hydraulic oil to use?
The manual linked above specifies DoAll Hydraulic Oil at 200-200 SUS @ 100°F, which seem to be pretty close to ISO 46 hydraulic oil (e.g., DTE 25). It also specifies a 215°F aniline point, which the Mobil DTE oils seem to meet (?), but you'd want to verify for seal compatibility.
 
The manual linked above specifies DoAll Hydraulic Oil at 200-200 SUS @ 100°F, which seem to be pretty close to ISO 46 hydraulic oil (e.g., DTE 25). It also specifies a 215°F aniline point, which the Mobil DTE oils seem to meet (?), but you'd want to verify for seal compatibility.
Yeah I saw that spec in the manual, but frankly its like German to me. Thanks for the response though. How do you propose I verify seal compatibility?
 
Yeah I saw that spec in the manual, but frankly its like German to me. Thanks for the response though. How do you propose I verify seal compatibility?
I don't know enough to say whether ISO 46 hydraulic oils vary a lot in their seal compatibility; I'd guess not. If you want to be careful about seal compatibility, find out the aniline point of the oil you plan to use and make sure it's above 215°F.
 
I use Mobil Vacuoline 1405 in my MicroMaster, that's ISO 32. The oil recommended in your manual looks like it is around ISO 46, like jwmelvin mentioned. That's right between 1405 and 1409, which is ISO 68. Vacuoline is specifically formulated for combination hydraulic use and way lubrication. As you only have a 5 gallon reservoir, (mine is 23!) you could try a couple different oils pretty easily and see how they do.
 
I use Mobil Vacuoline 1405 in my MicroMaster, that's ISO 32. The oil recommended in your manual looks like it is around ISO 46, like jwmelvin mentioned. That's right between 1405 and 1409, which is ISO 68. Vacuoline is specifically formulated for combination hydraulic use and way lubrication. As you only have a 5 gallon reservoir, (mine is 23!) you could try a couple different oils pretty easily and see how they do.
You think I run the risk of damaging the seals by using the cost effective stuff from tractor supply?

I was probably going to flush the first 5 gallons anyway
 








 
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