After visiting the yahoo Schaublin user group which is more of a posh style group and got me nowhere but discouragement, I’m hoping there are more blue collar guys here who can help me, regardless of their opinion if I should keep it or sell it and get something else. I have a 1966 102-80 (W20-MT2). This is my first lathe never used one before I got it because it was cheap, but now need to price out if I can make it work with my limited budget. It’s in good working shape, run out is less then 0.001 and about 0.0030mm backlash on the cross and compound, tail is solid about 0.0002 backlash.
Here is a picture of it after serious 5 hour rust cleaning:
Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
I don't have any collets, no draw bar, no drill chuck, no tool post and no motor
or motor pulley, and no variable speed control, so all these things have to be bought used.
Few questions if I may:
If I find a used draw bar does it need anything else like a bearing or collar bushing on the back end?
How do I determine if the collets are the correct ones when looking at eBay auctions, since some sellers have no idea what they are selling? For example these two auctions:
Schaublin W20 Collets | eBay
And
62 Schaublin Collets 1 32" thru 1" W20 | eBay
One says SV is that from a different SV model, the other one last picture he shows a measure of almost 25mm – shouldn’t it be less then 20mm or close to it?
Is there a mark on a collet to determine if it’s W20? Do numbers in metric state the measure, so if it says 11 that means 11mm? I assume they make both sets in mm and inches.
Is there an alternative to the W20, maybe a different make draw bar with an adepter to 3,4,5C collets so it’s cheaper method, then I’ll save up for the appropriate set up.
How do I choose an appropriate size tool post does the distance from center
to the compound slide differ on different lathes or is it standard on all makes, I measured
it - it's not precise but about 7/8" or closer to 15/16" – have no clue how to
translate this when looking for a tool post? Since I'm looking for the cheapest
solution here, what size tool post and size of tool bits can I use? Does it have
to be Lantern style to match the center height, or maybe one of those adjustable ones
will do? A quick change would be nice but they are very expensive. So I need a simple one for now.
If I choose to use one of those indexable tool bits that hold small
triangular bits on the tip end, does that change the size of a tool post that I
need, and what size indexable tool bit is appropriate? Basically I'll look for a
large lot of tool bits on eBay so which ever is a better deal I'll buy it, so it
could be a mixture of regular bits and indexible. Is it possible to use one tool
post for both types without adding any supporting pieces under the tool bit?
I only have 4 jaw scroll chuck right now mounted on the original back plate, but if I wanted to get a face plate or maybe independent 4 jaw down the road, does a conventional one or from another make fit onto this model back plate or only original Schaublin?
Is it possible to use a second squaring block, so maybe it's easier to align the carriage at precisely 90 degree and not push it against the bed? Or will that wear out the edge of the bed? For example reducing the diameter of a 60mm long shaft. Do you all use indicators to avoid mistakes of making a tapered shaft instead of even reduction?
Any 102 owners in the Toronto area who are using it for hobby and not in business environment?
Cheers
Here is a picture of it after serious 5 hour rust cleaning:
Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
I don't have any collets, no draw bar, no drill chuck, no tool post and no motor
or motor pulley, and no variable speed control, so all these things have to be bought used.
Few questions if I may:
If I find a used draw bar does it need anything else like a bearing or collar bushing on the back end?
How do I determine if the collets are the correct ones when looking at eBay auctions, since some sellers have no idea what they are selling? For example these two auctions:
Schaublin W20 Collets | eBay
And
62 Schaublin Collets 1 32" thru 1" W20 | eBay
One says SV is that from a different SV model, the other one last picture he shows a measure of almost 25mm – shouldn’t it be less then 20mm or close to it?
Is there a mark on a collet to determine if it’s W20? Do numbers in metric state the measure, so if it says 11 that means 11mm? I assume they make both sets in mm and inches.
Is there an alternative to the W20, maybe a different make draw bar with an adepter to 3,4,5C collets so it’s cheaper method, then I’ll save up for the appropriate set up.
How do I choose an appropriate size tool post does the distance from center
to the compound slide differ on different lathes or is it standard on all makes, I measured
it - it's not precise but about 7/8" or closer to 15/16" – have no clue how to
translate this when looking for a tool post? Since I'm looking for the cheapest
solution here, what size tool post and size of tool bits can I use? Does it have
to be Lantern style to match the center height, or maybe one of those adjustable ones
will do? A quick change would be nice but they are very expensive. So I need a simple one for now.
If I choose to use one of those indexable tool bits that hold small
triangular bits on the tip end, does that change the size of a tool post that I
need, and what size indexable tool bit is appropriate? Basically I'll look for a
large lot of tool bits on eBay so which ever is a better deal I'll buy it, so it
could be a mixture of regular bits and indexible. Is it possible to use one tool
post for both types without adding any supporting pieces under the tool bit?
I only have 4 jaw scroll chuck right now mounted on the original back plate, but if I wanted to get a face plate or maybe independent 4 jaw down the road, does a conventional one or from another make fit onto this model back plate or only original Schaublin?
Is it possible to use a second squaring block, so maybe it's easier to align the carriage at precisely 90 degree and not push it against the bed? Or will that wear out the edge of the bed? For example reducing the diameter of a 60mm long shaft. Do you all use indicators to avoid mistakes of making a tapered shaft instead of even reduction?
Any 102 owners in the Toronto area who are using it for hobby and not in business environment?
Cheers
