What's new
What's new

No power feed or gear changes on 1941 Cincinnati no2 horizontal

Dope

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 16, 2016
Oh yeah, forgot to mention, after putting the table back together I checked backlash. .013" on the table and .006" on the saddle feed, measured right in the middle of the travel. Pretty damn good!
 

texasgeartrain

Titanium
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Location
Houston, TX
Many, many MANY thanks for this! I did a slightly modified version of your plan and gutted them all. It went pretty easily, thank you for the explanation.

https://youtu.be/FORWPDfPZJo

My two low points were on each side of the knee, by about 6 to 8 inches lower. After pumping up system, during the next day or two, the higher points of the tree gradually back fed to the lower. So excess oil was running down column ways and onto base during the next two days.

My solution was to add a small shut off valve on each side of the knee. I open it during lube priming, then shut it off after. Works perfectly:

135.jpg 136.jpg

The valves I got from Home Depot in the plumbing section. These are typically for the small water line for a frig ice maker. One end was 1/8 pipe thread, the other had nut/cap with compression fitting. I threw the cap and compression fitting away, and used a 1/8 pipe die to chase the thread. Then added a union to connect original fitting.

There's various options depending what you need or want to do though.

I don't regret gutting those fittings at all. In my opinion they are the single greatest source of machine damage, with each individual fitting a potential failure point.
 

Dope

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 16, 2016
My two low points were on each side of the knee, by about 6 to 8 inches lower. After pumping up system, during the next day or two, the higher points of the tree gradually back fed to the lower. So excess oil was running down column ways and onto base during the next two days.

My solution was to add a small shut off valve on each side of the knee. I open it during lube priming, then shut it off after. Works perfectly:

View attachment 329772 View attachment 329773

The valves I got from Home Depot in the plumbing section. These are typically for the small water line for a frig ice maker. One end was 1/8 pipe thread, the other had nut/cap with compression fitting. I threw the cap and compression fitting away, and used a 1/8 pipe die to chase the thread. Then added a union to connect original fitting.

There's various options depending what you need or want to do though.

I don't regret gutting those fittings at all. In my opinion they are the single greatest source of machine damage, with each individual fitting a potential failure point.

Yeah I'm gonna see how it goes, it seems all my lines are on almost the same level, and the pump is just below them too. I haven't noticed excess oil leaking but we'll see.

I can see what you mean by being such a danger, especially after realizing how many totally hidden lines there are under the table, and how many of the fittings were 100% completely non-working. I was hitting them with 150psi of air and not even getting a whistle of air leaking past the fittings, just completely bound up.
 








 
Top