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Not This Again! Should I / Shouldn't I Buy This HLV-H....

triumph406

Titanium
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Location
ca
The part that sits on top the cross-slide and turns (can't think of the correct terminology at the moment) if Bubba has over-tightened the locking screw, the part can crack, happened on mine and at least one other I know of.
 

jz79

Stainless
Joined
Mar 21, 2017
The part that sits on top the cross-slide and turns (can't think of the correct terminology at the moment) if Bubba has over-tightened the locking screw, the part can crack, happened on mine and at least one other I know of.

you mean this part?
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they then used a bolt and a nut to hold the top slide at the desired angle, but they didn't stop there, the French Bubba using now my hlv-h was extremely gifted, he even managed to do this to the top slide, both sides look like this, apparently it was too complicated to loosen that nut, so he used a hammer to adjust the angle, there are marks like this even on the cross slide, not sure why...
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IHateMayonnaise

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Location
Albuquerque
I went back today, and dug a little deeper w/ the help from all you folks here. The big question mark had to do with the bed, and whether there was much wear/scoring. After looking very carefully, I can say that to my eye there doesn't *appear* to be much wear, and minimal scoring. I took a series of photos of the bed, some before/after I ran my finger perpendicular to the length of the bed to show the contrast between the grease tracks and the bare metal. To be clear, there certainly are marks on the bed, but none can be sensed with the touch of a finger, and certainly not with a fingernail. The dovetailed edges look good as well.

I learned some more about the history of this unit. It was auctioned off from Los Alamos laboratories -- it is fair to say that this was used as a prototype machine, with larger batch jobs going to the CNCs. There is a fair bit of speculation here, but it makes sense.

I took some photos of the other parts of the machine that I think would show wear if there was some (gearbox scores for different gear settings, rack) and I'd say they both look pretty good. There are some nicks near the front edge of the unit, can't be sure what these are from. I also showed a picture of the grime that is characteristic of this unit -- it is NOT rust, just gooped up crud. It should come off nice with a razor blade.

I was able to get the spindle to rotate, the lock was on. The only sound I could here is the sound of the break (there's a picture of it in its current state), the seller told me that unless the unit has power it's not possible to let off the break. I couldn't hear any squeeks from the headstock.
 

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IHateMayonnaise

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Location
Albuquerque
More pictures below!
 

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IHateMayonnaise

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Location
Albuquerque
More pictures!
 

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johnwestfall

Plastic
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Location
Michigan USA
So here’s the whole story.

You act like you really want this machine… like that’s one is the one. So go buy it and be happy. But….

Here’s something else that I’ll probably be banned for.

I just sold an hlv-h guy paid a hand to spend the weekend to drive 800 miles and $500 to come get it ready
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.
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A# good working condition $4,200. Out the door.

The old style hlv-h is just not worth that much. Had offers from dealers for less.

Also saw the recent auctions. Like..

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This one in Arizona sold at auction for $4,200 plus Byers premium. The shipper company quote was $1,800 to Michigan. See photo
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Or these that just went at auction in Massachusetts for around $2,000
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Basically the old style hlvh doesn’t have the price it used to have. Yes the hlv-EM still is what is desired. But I don’t understand why.
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So do what you want. And everyone give me all the grief you can. That’s what the market is currently paying.

Yes Babbin is a godsend, but Hardinge is not very friendly to the hobby market for parts. $$$.

I owned one, I loved one, I realized the cost, I moved on,

John Westfall.
I also figured out how to change my username.
 

car2

Stainless
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Location
Apex, NC
Well, the price debate primarily boils down to condition (something people are not necessarily that adept at assessing, and very difficult (or impossible) to determine from pictures). I wouldn't pay much either for a rather obviously high-use, worn-out and/or damaged machine. As stated previously, the price drops rapidly from good to fair to poor condition, with the very rarely available creampuff demanding top dollar. Seems like the price the OP is looking at is comparable to your posts, and perhaps in less used condition.

The good part is that they are relatively simple, and assuming bought un-damaged in decent condition, there isn't much to go wrong with them unless crashed or abused; and at least you CAN relatively easily find parts on Ebay, and some still are available from Hardinge (granted at hefty prices).

"Looks" like low bed wear on the OP's pictures, scraping still visible on the slide, all the badges are not worn off, etc. indicating a lower use machine.

(To the OP's comments, yes the cork "brake" is on when the power is off; it is spring-loaded against the drum on the motor when un-energized. I'd nix the grease (chip and dirt magnet) on the rack and go with gear-lube or way-oil, and judging from all the grease/grime, take the carriage off and clean it if you purchase the machine).
 

Mickey_D

Stainless
Joined
Apr 18, 2006
Location
Austin, TX
Seems like a decent but not great deal to me. I paid a little more than that for my 84 model but it did come with a lot of extras and tooling. I would try to get him to throw in any extras that he has or come off the price a little. BTY, Hardinge is not just hard on the small guys, pricing on their CNC parts are high too.
 








 
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