OT: Emergency electrical issue on vintage muscle car

[SteveF]

Try reading...I realize you have shown "Difficulties" with reading & comprehending in the past.
Try harder

Off Topic Post Guidelines

OT posts should be for asking advice or presently advice on a non machining related subject, but, ideally, of a technical nature. Non technically related questions, such as health related are ok if you're desperate or have valuable insights on same to offer. But it should be "questions" and...

www.practicalmachinist.com

It's a full explanation of what happened so folks would understand my belief that anyone with an older car should have a way to quickly disconnect the battery. True to PM form a discussion occurred and someone suggested a way that caused me to think some more about it and come up with a far better solution to my problem. Which is the purpose of the OT posts.

Steve

 

[eKretz]

It's a full explanation of what happened so folks would understand my belief that anyone with an older car should have a way to quickly disconnect the battery. True to PM form a discussion occurred and someone suggested a way that caused me to think some more about it and come up with a far better solution to my problem. Which is the purpose of the OT posts.

Steve

That is great, it is awesome that you found a better solution. That is what OT is supposed to be used for. Whether or not that will suffice for not getting the lock, we shall see. If you had asked in the OP about potential solutions to that problem you'd be on solid ground. Good luck.

It doesn't really matter at this point anyway I suppose, as long as you found a solution.

 

[JoeE.]

Reading and comprehension are my strong suits, thank you very much. You should brush up on both.
Looks to me like he was presenting advice.... the rest of us added to it, and one guy even learned something from all of it.
You, on the other hand, got offended and tried to rain on his parade.
Whoever writes the "stickies" should proofread what they wrote... "presently" advice?

 

[Scottl]

Well, just had the most helpless feeling EVER. I'm up in Maryland fixing my brothers 66 Mustang which hasn't run since last year. Fixed a bunch of corroded unsealed crimped wire connectors from the previous owner. Fixed the battery cables. Cleaned the plugs, new plug wires. Had to remove the starter to be able to read the block casting numbers on the 1972 302 (Thank you idiots at Ford). Tested the starter and replaced that as well as the starter relay. Turned the key and damned if it didn't start after about 5 seconds and ran fine. Moved it out of the garage, turned it on and off a few times and went two miles away to get gas. Put in gas and went to start it. The key didn't feel right and I could hear the starter not disengage so turned it off and it kept right on cranking. Turned the key a few times - the engine stopped. Removed the key, still cranking. Opened the hood as I helplessly watched the engine crank and luckily the magic smoke came out of the starter relay and everything stopped. Thrilled I didn't have to tell my brother that his car caught fire and burned to a crisp at the gas station.

I told my brother - This car is NEVER going anywhere without a wrench to take off the negative battery cable.

Strongly suggest anyone else with an older vehicle do the same.

Replacing the starter relay and ignition switch tomorrow. Hope the new starter is OK.

Steve

Better to just install a heavy duty battery shutoff. Usually you can find a few existing bolts to piggyback a mounting bracket to so no modification of a classic and you simply replace the positive cable with a 2-piece cable.

 

[eKretz]

Reading and comprehension are my strong suits, thank you very much. You should brush up on both.
Looks to me like he was presenting advice.... the rest of us added to it, and one guy even learned something from all of it.
You, on the other hand, got offended and tried to rain on his parade.
Whoever writes the "stickies" should proofread what they wrote... "presently" advice?

Good luck with that one too. Milacron can be a bit of a stickler; and historically, threads have gotten locked seemingly depending on which way the wind blows. And yeah, there was a spelling mistake or several in the stickies. The intent is still pretty clear. It will come down to however he interprets it.

Better to just install a heavy duty battery shutoff. Usually you can find a few existing bolts to piggyback a mounting bracket to so no modification of a classic and you simply replace the positive cable with a 2-piece cable.

This is the way I'd go. They use these type of shutoffs on racing cars so the electrical system can be instantly disconnected. They will do the trick.

I had a 85 Ford F150 with a big lift and 38" Swampers, it was a fun truck. Ran it up on one of those hills where the front axle tilts one way and the rear axle tilts the other way. Was out in the middle of nowhere in nasty terrain. Apparently, whoever had installed the radio had run an unfused power wire through an area that got pinched when the truck flexed and it shorted. I started smelling something and then the smoke from the wire insulation started rolling. I got out and popped the hood, saw a glowing red hot wire and about crapped. Had no tools with me, but I did have a shovel in the bed. Used it to sever the wire. Like to kill the bum that wired the radio (bought the truck used).

Wish I'd have had one of those disconnects. And oh yeah, I'm intimately familiar with those shitty fenderwall solenoids.

 

[JoeE.]

I never even thought about a battery disconnect. I've got some real heavy duty (vs. Harbor Freight) units I've salvaged off of railroad maintenance of way equipment... I've got them on all my outdoor equipment.... this truck needs one.
I sure wish I knew what it was about those solenoids... as GBent alluded to, low voltage may contribute to poor operation, but the batteries I use are HOT!!!

 

[eKretz]

I never even thought about a battery disconnect. I've got some real heavy duty (vs. Harbor Freight) units I've salvaged off of railroad maintenance of way equipment... I've got them on all my outdoor equipment.... this truck needs one.
I sure wish I knew what it was about those solenoids... as GBent alluded to, low voltage may contribute to poor operation, but the batteries I use are HOT!!!

The best advice I can give about those solenoids is to make sure you have a good ground. They ground through the flange where the solenoid touches the fender, there's no ground wire; so if that connection/interface gets some corrosion (What? A fenderwall near the wheel well getting corrosion? No, never!) or the screw loosens up because it's only screwed into thin sheet metal it will go high resistance or even open. I thought about adding a separate ground wire to mine, never did get around to it though.

 

[john.k]

Wonderful cars,the 72 Falcons.....I drove mine until it literally fell apart around me..........i gave the engine to a kid who said he wanted to learn old time mechanics......the lying scrote flipped it on gumtree for $500.

 

[10 fingers]

I never read thru hobbyist responses. Regarding the OP, I own several, 60's vintage, Ford muscle cars. Recently had a new, Motorcraft solenoid refuse to disengage. Replaced it with a NAPA item. So far so good.