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OT: Plumbing question and observations?

Lanso

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Location
Cerritos, CA
I’ve replaced many galvanized stub-outs with stainless from 1/2” supply to 2” drain and never a problem.
Clean the threads of course.
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
When I do the replacement it's going to be gauged accordingly to what was there originally. The same number of turns.
At this plumbing supply a contractor once said that he uses tape and sealant on his connections. I wind 6-7 turns in clockwise
direction, same path as a nut.
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
Side note, the Diablo carbide sawsall blade did an awesome job of cutting the old one in half to make it manageable to carry out of the basement. No paint left, but sharp as new.

Those blades have a good rep with me also. I also really like the Diablo carbide tipped hole saws. Used one recently to put a bunch (~30) of 1¾" holes through ½" steel plate for a shed project, worked awesome.
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
1/2" steel plate. For a shed. Do tell.

I did a sort of quickie hybrid "pole shed" design with some materials I already had on hand. Namely 1¾"ish diameter 10' galvanized poles. Mainly so I could do it in 2-3 hour chunks by myself without needing help (bad back). The poles go through concrete pavers down into the ground then through the steel plate, which is welded to the pole while resting on the concrete paver. Then a 6" tall chunk of 4x4 with a 1¾" hole drilled through it and another plate welded on top. Another plate and 4x4 midway up the pole and one more set at the top. From there framed small wall sections and screwed them between the poles, then boxed in the poles. etc. etc. You can see one of the unboxed poles in one of the photos. Cracked the center paver tapping it flat with a hammer like a dumbass, will do something with it later.

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idacal

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Location
new plymouth id
I didn't read everything in this thread do what you have to do, but stay as for from galvanized plumbing as you can. a lot of stuff is changing over to stainless but there is issues with stainless you need to use the proper pipe dope, get it too tight, it galls and leaks, to loose it leaks, wrong dope it galls and leaks. the brass without the lead is also hard to use and get leak free, basically the dope is what seals everything up. but the stuff that's call galvanized pipe now is so thin and fragile its ridiculous. on drop pipes in wells we use threaded schedule 120 pvc with stainless couplers. a lot of it depends on water quality too
 

cyanidekid

Titanium
Joined
Jun 4, 2016
Location
Brooklyn NYC
I don't think it should be a problem. Only problem I've ever had was screwing new into old. Old threads are usually in rough shape. I hit the mother lode at a garage sale and picked a 1 1/2" and 2" pipe tap. They've saved my ass many a time doing drain lines.

if that's the mother lode, I'm impressed with your modest expectations! (that could be a whole 'nuther thread right there... :D)
 

cyanidekid

Titanium
Joined
Jun 4, 2016
Location
Brooklyn NYC
Dielectric union?
Yes, between the galv and SS pipe it might be a good idea.

yup, when going from one metal to another, dielectric unions or nipples are the shit to use. as to a system ground being on a single water pipe, yea seen that, but it's just not acceptable anymore, some with more current (pun intended) experience can chime in, but if that's what you got, you have some serious issues to address with your service.

(let alone if you have any significant voltage across it!)
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
I didn't read everything in this thread do what you have to do, but stay as for from galvanized plumbing as you can. a lot of stuff is changing over to stainless but there is issues with stainless you need to use the proper pipe dope, get it too tight, it galls and leaks, to loose it leaks, wrong dope it galls and leaks. the brass without the lead is also hard to use and get leak free, basically the dope is what seals everything up. but the stuff that's call galvanized pipe now is so thin and fragile its ridiculous. on drop pipes in wells we use threaded schedule 120 pvc with stainless couplers. a lot of it depends on water quality too

I had a choice of 304 or 316. Maybe I could see some galling with 304 but not 316.
 

Tony Quiring

Titanium
Joined
Nov 5, 2008
Location
Madera county california usa
Interesting building...

Pipe barn.

Everyone knows what pole barn is, we made Antenna Barn, using Decibel DB810 antennas as poles.

Placed pairs of 2x6 in a fixture with space then core drilled between them od of antennas.

They clamp them well.

Aluminum bottom with very strong fiberglass radome on top.

Horse barn for now
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Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
"some galling" haha! guess you haven't done much stainless wrenching... :D

When I don't use Optimoly from the Fatherland it might lock up. But I consider 304 mostly for non-strength applications so nothing gets torqued too hard.
Plumbing fittings? I would prefer BSP and/or high reliable tube fittings.
 








 
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