Pacemaker Clutch spring

[gmach10]

I installed new clutch discs on our Pacemaker. It's adjusted as it should be but it the spindle still creeps when you pull the lever to the disengaged position. The brake should be applied but it only applies when you lift up on the handle. There is a spring that pulls the linkage back to where it belongs which I'm thinking might be weak. The machine was built in 1952 so that might be it. Has anyone else encountered this problem and if so what was the fix?

 

[tailstock4]

You may not need a new clutch spring or at least there may be a couple of things to try first. I changed the clutch and the brake on mine and it would creep a little when it’s cold but usually just a shove on the brake will hold it. As it warms a little, this goes away. Also as the clutch wears in a little bit, it should get better.

You might try backing off on your clutch adjustment just a little bit. That opens up clearance reducing the oil film friction on the plates. Make sure you’re running a heavy/medium ISO 68 especially if your shop is cool.

 

[gmach10]

Thanks for the reply. I'll see what oil they've been putting in it. The part number the catalog calls for is E-750 I'm wondering if this is an off the shelf spring or something proprietary.

 

[MyLilMule]

We have a Pacemaker at the Midwest Railway Preservation Society here in Cleveland that does the same thing. It creeps when not engaged. I haven't done anything with the machine but start to clean all the grime off it. How do you adjust the clutch discs on it, if it turns out this one needs adjusted? I will get it running next time I am able and let it warm up for a bit to see if that changes anything, but if it doesn't, I'd appreciate some direction on how to adjust them. Do I need to take. the headstock cover off? That's planned already, so I'd kill 2 birds if possible and needed.

 

[tailstock4]

We have a Pacemaker at the Midwest Railway Preservation Society here in Cleveland that does the same thing. It creeps when not engaged. I haven't done anything with the machine but start to clean all the grime off it. How do you adjust the clutch discs on it, if it turns out this one needs adjusted? I will get it running next time I am able and let it warm up for a bit to see if that changes anything, but if it doesn't, I'd appreciate some direction on how to adjust them. Do I need to take. the headstock cover off? That's planned already, so I'd kill 2 birds if possible and needed.

The clutch adjustment is done by removing the 4” cap on the back of the large pulley on the headstock. It screws off with a large spanner wrench. Under this is an adjustment nut and set screw. You tighten this nut to tighten the clutch and loosen to loosen. A little goes a long way.

I’ve found that this cap is often a source for a seeping leak. It causes oil to migrate on the surface of the pulley to the belts. When you have it off, you might add a gasket. I made mine out of plastic shim stock. It compresses enough to stop the leak but durable enough to reuse.