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Phase II rotary table help

h_arch

Plastic
Joined
Aug 6, 2023
Hello all, first post here, but definitely not the last.

I've been machining (manual Lagun FTV-2 and Sheldon lathe) for a few years at my last job, recently went on my own and started acquiring the tools I need to do the work I want to do.

I purchased a beautiful 1953 Bridgeport variable speed with a ton of tooling, setup equipment and everything else the dude wanted gone for $3500. In that pile was a 10" Phase II rotary table.

I've only used one other table before, so I'm a bit unfamiliar with this one. I can't get the handle to engage the table and spin. I've moved the knobs in every conceivable orientation hoping it will free up some locks or something, and still nothing. I don't want to start taking it apart if I don't have to.

Does anyone have experience with these tables and can walk me through what I need to check/do to make it function? This will be a crucial piece of equipment if I can get it to function.

Thanks all, hopefully someday I can help someone with something to pay it back.

--Matt
 

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Sounds like you have got the worm disengaged.

The drive worm and handle assembly are generally on an eccentric bush. Turning the bush allows the depth of the engagement between worm and wheel to be adjusted to nominal zero backlash for maximum accuracy. Some rotary tables are made so that the worm can easily be disengaged after loosening an obvious lever others have hidden binding devices to prevent folk fiddling with a factory or service tech set adjustment.

Usually you have to grab the worm and dial mount itself to make the adjustment.

Looking at your picture it is likely that the black lever on the right, near the base, operates the binding device. If so it should be possible to turn the handle assembly by grasping the ring behind the degree scale when that binder is released. Not sure what the transfers say, frequently they are diagrams showing how to do things.

If the adjustment hasn't been played wit or has been left in one position for years both binding device and eccentric adjuster may well be seized up. I've yet to meet on on a used table that moved easily! Probably a good thing as you don't want the adjustment wandering around of its own accord when using the table.

Clive
 
Unclear. Does the crank handle spin or not? if it does not spin the table is locked or rusted in place. If it spins the worm is not engaged. Usually there is an eccentric mount to engage and disengage the worm
 
Here's the manual. Page 4 & 5 should give you the info you need.
 

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Sounds like you have got the worm disengaged.

The drive worm and handle assembly are generally on an eccentric bush. Turning the bush allows the depth of the engagement between worm and wheel to be adjusted to nominal zero backlash for maximum accuracy. Some rotary tables are made so that the worm can easily be disengaged after loosening an obvious lever others have hidden binding devices to prevent folk fiddling with a factory or service tech set adjustment.

Usually you have to grab the worm and dial mount itself to make the adjustment.

Looking at your picture it is likely that the black lever on the right, near the base, operates the binding device. If so it should be possible to turn the handle assembly by grasping the ring behind the degree scale when that binder is released. Not sure what the transfers say, frequently they are diagrams showing how to do things.

If the adjustment hasn't been played wit or has been left in one position for years both binding device and eccentric adjuster may well be seized up. I've yet to meet on on a used table that moved easily! Probably a good thing as you don't want the adjustment wandering around of its own accord when using the table.

Clive
Clive,

Thanks a ton. I was only moving the handwheel not the entire assembly. Got it to swing in place and engage. As soon as I saw where and how the eccentric is mounted, it makes perfect sense. The Phase II manuals are a bit hard to follow, seems like they were written for folks who already know how they're put together...

Now the table engages with the handwheel... but man it takes both hands with it clamped to the table to move it. I'm not exactly weak and it's tough to get 1/2 rotation or 2* out of it.

Any suggestions of oil to use/not to use? Was going to put some no6 velocite in or some penetrating 3-1 to try and free it up from decades of not moving.

Thanks again!!
 
My "the usual" solvent for softening old hardened greases and oils is deodorized mineral spirits. (Which I usually buy in quart containers labeled "deodorized charcoal lighter fluid".)

I've also taken to using a roughly-half-and-half mix of deodorized mineral spirits and a light hydraulic oil as a general-purpose light oil.
 
I have a Phase II 8 inch table. The eccentric is very closely fitted, and if the table has been dropped or even bumped hard, the eccentric will bind. I unfortunately know this from experience. With difficulty I removed the eccentric and smoothed a tiny bump on the end, with hard stones and polishing paper...truly, only a few thousandths....and now it works fine.
 
From your pics it doesn't look like this ever saw coolant. That's good it can really trash stuff.

I'd probably take the thing apart so it can be cleaned appropriately. Maybe an hour or so? Get rid of the gummy stuff and lubricate properly.
 
From your pics it doesn't look like this ever saw coolant. That's good it can really trash stuff.

I'd probably take the thing apart so it can be cleaned appropriately. Maybe an hour or so? Get rid of the gummy stuff and lubricate properly.
So I'm back at it. I finally got my 13" South bend lathe overhauled and back in service, so now it's back to the rotary table.

I have removed all conceivable set screws (and double set screws) and I can't get the worm drive out. It's been soaking in WD-40, PB Blast, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, anything I could throw at it. I've looked at the exploded view over and over, and I can't get past taking the handle and vernier off.

Any suggestions from anyone? I'm totally stuck. Literally. This thing seems harder to disassemble than overhauling an entire lathe.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
So I'm back at it. I finally got my 13" South bend lathe overhauled and back in service, so now it's back to the rotary table.

I have removed all conceivable set screws (and double set screws) and I can't get the worm drive out. It's been soaking in WD-40, PB Blast, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, anything I could throw at it. I've looked at the exploded view over and over, and I can't get past taking the handle and vernier off.

Any suggestions from anyone? I'm totally stuck. Literally. This thing seems harder to disassemble than overhauling an entire lathe.View attachment 428727View attachment 428728View attachment 428729
 

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I guess if you ask you suddenly get it. #29 "block" needed a screw to pull it out. Darn thing came right out.
 
I used Vactra #2 on mine, while it leaks like sieve, it works well. As far as it being hard to turn you do have to adjust the backlash. It sounds to me that the mesh between the gear was to tight. Look on page 5 of the manual for how to adjust.
 
So I'm stuck again. I can't get the slotted table assembly out of the main housing. Again, I've removed every conceivable thing. I've soaked it in PB blast for a week, but it won't budge. Anyone have any ideas? I don't know if the little cam bolt things that the levers go into need to be removed, but I can't find a way to remove them.
 








 
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