Philabuster's Hobby Shop

[Philabuster]

THAT took some time on the green wheel!


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I hate green wheels. Took less than a minute on the diamond wheel. I just ground the necessary heel clearance on the insert. I did not grind the cutting edges.

 

[Philabuster]

I took on a job to machine some threaded adapters machined from 4140 hex stock.

To do the job right, I really needed to grab the stock with some hex collet pads. I spent the day yesterday machining steel soft jaws to hold the pads. I went with Warner & Swasey #5 471 collet pads because I already had a bunch of them in round sizes but I had to buy the 1-1/16" hex ones.

Everything turned out nice. Ran a bar end to check them out.

 

[DrHook]

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the reason for doing that? More rigidity for the intermittent cut, or less chance of marking the material?

 

[Philabuster]

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the reason for doing that? More rigidity for the intermittent cut, or less chance of marking the material?

Runout is better. No chuck marks in the material and I can use a hard length stop.

 

[DrHook]

Damn... only been at work an hour and already learned something...

 

[Ox]

It looks like your tight on the nose, so I'm guessin' that you put a bit of taper in your bore?

What size W&S did those come from?
Dang - that must be a 3" capacity?
That's bigger'n a #5, whatever comes after that....

12" chuck?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[Philabuster]

It looks like your tight on the nose, so I'm guessin' that you put a bit of taper in your bore?

What size W&S did those come from?
Dang - that must be a 3" capacity?
That's bigger'n a #5, whatever comes after that....

12" chuck?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I chucked on a ring in the face groove to preload the jaws to the front and I bored the jaws straight.

These are marked W&S 471, which are 3" in diameter. My big Hitachi Seiki turret lathe is a #5 and had this series of collets with it when I bought it.

The chuck is an 8" Howa. I had some 10" soft jaws that were 2" thick so I used those for this project. I milled them down to 1.5" above the pads to reduce the weight.

 

[Ox]

.. just now remembering how W&S pads work:

So - you have a retaining bolt coming in through both of the bolt holes?
Can you change the pads with it together, or doo you need to dump the jaws first?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[Philabuster]

.. just now remembering how W&S pads work:

So - you have a retaining bolt coming in through both of the bolt holes?
Can you change the pads with it together, or doo you need to dump the jaws first?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I can change the pads without removing the jaws from the chuck.

I counterbored the pad retaining bolt so I can remove the jaws from the chuck without needing to remove the pads first.

 

[Ox]

Then you could prolly put those jaws on Jenny Craig a bit?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[Ox]

I chucked on a ring in the face groove to preload the jaws to the front and I bored the jaws straight.

These are marked W&S 471, which are 3" in diameter. My big Hitachi Seiki turret lathe is a #5 and had this series of collets with it when I bought it.

The chuck is an 8" Howa. I had some 10" soft jaws that were 2" thick so I used those for this project. I milled them down to 1.5" above the pads to reduce the weight.

Oh I see, you turned a pocket in the front for your ring!
Of course you shouldn't need that anymore, but - yeah!


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[Philabuster]

Then you could prolly put those jaws on Jenny Craig a bit?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I gave the jaws a serious diet already. Lol.

I want to keep the face groove in the event I need to re-cut the locating diameters again.

 

[cnctoolcat]

US Shop Tools gets like $5-800 per set of these collet pad master jaws!
That's why like Phil did, I roll my own.
I like to make my top jaws as low as possible off the face of the chuck, just wide enough to seat the length of the collet pad. This requires the jaws to be removed to change the pads (we seldom change sizes), but puts the clamping forces as close to the chuck as possible.
The "W&S 471" pads are 3" OD (the bore you need in your chuck jaws), and have a max capacity of ~2-3/4" round.

ToolCat

 

[Cole2534]

Cutting left hand threads is programmed exactly the same as right hand threads. You just need to get a left hand threading tool and tell the machine to run the chuck direction backwards on the tool data page. The cutting direction in Z will then be the same as when running right hand threads.

The machine does not want to cut left hand threads using a right hand tool holder.

I just program the start/stop inverted from a normal RH thread. Using on-edge inserts, they're ground for relief on both sides.

 

[Philabuster]

I just program the start/stop inverted from a normal RH thread. Using on-edge inserts, they're ground for relief on both sides.

I never had any luck on the older controls with this method. The threads come out perfect if I just use LH tooling for LH threads.

This thread needs an update...

 

[Philabuster]

Not much happened in the home shop towards the end of 2022. This was a good thing as we were slammed at work and we were putting in 70+ hours a week (sometimes 84 hours which is our max). I have not worked that much OT since 2008.

Here are two jobs I did during the end of 2022 at the home shop:

First job is 10 pcs aluminum nozzle blanks. The parts are about an inch in diameter at the base. The customer is putting in the final hole size on his CNC mill once he figures out the flow rate he needs on his project.

Second job is some sort of a guide plug machined from 303ss. OD is Ø1.81" for reference and the OD step diameter and ID bore diameter both measure Ø1.000".

 

[Philabuster]

2023 got off to a slow start at home, but I ended up with 3 jobs in a week in February. First job was a quickie rework job to machine a step in some parts I made a while ago. Revision change. I forgot to take a pic of it.

Next job was a 16 pc order of different coupling parts (4pc+8pc+4pc) machined out of Ø4.0" 1018. These parts are getting milled, Wire EDMed, and one set splined. I was just tasked to do the turning OPs.

This job was HOT and they needed me to machine them over the weekend so they had time to send the parts out for the other OPs on Monday.

I did not have time to get the blanks sawn to length, so I asked the guy at the metal shop if he could just cut the 22" long bar I had in half. I had some rusty 1018 on the shelf already, but I bought a remnant to complete the order.

I chucked up the bars in Big Zak, faced them, drilled a 1.125" hole in them and parted them off. I then machined OP 2 and 3 in Junior as a double chuck operation.

 

[Philabuster]

This next job was for another excavator dirt compactor wheel repair. They asked me to machine a new 1018 bushing and they also needed an 18" length of Ø2.500" turned, ground and polished stock for the bearings to ride on it.

Bushing measures Ø4.700" OD x Ø2.505" ID x 4.00" long.

Ended up finding a piece of 1045 TG&P stock along with a Ø5.0" x 10" long piece of 1018. Found both materials on the remnant rack at Apache Steel. No sawing needed. Score!

Everything is getting welded up at the customer's place. The pic is just showing how both pieces fit together.

 

[Kingludd]

Last week, Phil produced oil restrictor nozzles for my 1979 Honda motorcycle. Also called an oil restrictor plug, it meters engine oil flow through a hollow shaft connected to the bike's alternator. The nozzle has a slight taper. After coming out of the freezer, it fits very snugly in the shaft once at ambient temperature. The part has never been sold individually. There isn't a part number for it and you have to bastardize an already assembled shaft to get one - and then it's usually beat up. I sent Phil some drawings and a used nozzle and after a couple of cordial email exchanges to clarify things, the nozzles were soon in my shop. The fit is excellent. It's very easy working with Phil and he accommodated my request for some photos of his shop set up that I can keep in my archives. Thank you Phil for making it possible to keep this old Honda on the road. Mark C., Woodbridge, Virginia

 

[kb0thn]

Phil is a stand up guy! I bought an old QT15 as my first CNC lathe. It has long obsolete BT25 tooling system on an odd turret. Phil hooked me for a fair price with a bunch of BT25 tool holders.

Last week, Phil produced oil restrictor nozzles for my 1979 Honda motorcycle. Also called an oil restrictor plug, it meters engine oil flow through a hollow shaft connected to the bike's alternator. The nozzle has a slight taper. After coming out of the freezer, it fits very snugly in the shaft once at ambient temperature. The part has never been sold individually. There isn't a part number for it and you have to bastardize an already assembled shaft to get one - and then it's usually beat up. I sent Phil some drawings and a used nozzle and after a couple of cordial email exchanges to clarify things, the nozzles were soon in my shop. The fit is excellent. It's very easy working with Phil and he accommodated my request for some photos of his shop set up that I can keep in my archives. Thank you Phil for making it possible to keep this old Honda on the road. Mark C., Woodbridge, Virginia