I chucked on a ring in the face groove to preload the jaws to the front and I bored the jaws straight.It looks like your tight on the nose, so I'm guessin' that you put a bit of taper in your bore?
What size W&S did those come from?
Dang - that must be a 3" capacity?
That's bigger'n a #5, whatever comes after that....
Think Snow Eh!
I can change the pads without removing the jaws from the chuck... just now remembering how W&S pads work:
So - you have a retaining bolt coming in through both of the bolt holes?
Can you change the pads with it together, or doo you need to dump the jaws first?
Think Snow Eh!
I chucked on a ring in the face groove to preload the jaws to the front and I bored the jaws straight.
These are marked W&S 471, which are 3" in diameter. My big Hitachi Seiki turret lathe is a #5 and had this series of collets with it when I bought it.
The chuck is an 8" Howa. I had some 10" soft jaws that were 2" thick so I used those for this project. I milled them down to 1.5" above the pads to reduce the weight.
I just program the start/stop inverted from a normal RH thread. Using on-edge inserts, they're ground for relief on both sides.Cutting left hand threads is programmed exactly the same as right hand threads. You just need to get a left hand threading tool and tell the machine to run the chuck direction backwards on the tool data page. The cutting direction in Z will then be the same as when running right hand threads.
The machine does not want to cut left hand threads using a right hand tool holder.
I never had any luck on the older controls with this method. The threads come out perfect if I just use LH tooling for LH threads.I just program the start/stop inverted from a normal RH thread. Using on-edge inserts, they're ground for relief on both sides.
Last week, Phil produced oil restrictor nozzles for my 1979 Honda motorcycle. Also called an oil restrictor plug, it meters engine oil flow through a hollow shaft connected to the bike's alternator. The nozzle has a slight taper. After coming out of the freezer, it fits very snugly in the shaft once at ambient temperature. The part has never been sold individually. There isn't a part number for it and you have to bastardize an already assembled shaft to get one - and then it's usually beat up. I sent Phil some drawings and a used nozzle and after a couple of cordial email exchanges to clarify things, the nozzles were soon in my shop. The fit is excellent. It's very easy working with Phil and he accommodated my request for some photos of his shop set up that I can keep in my archives. Thank you Phil for making it possible to keep this old Honda on the road. Mark C., Woodbridge, Virginia