picked up a lodge and shipley lathe and a 2-1/2 B milwalkie vertical mill

[hope]

I was happy to bring thease two machines home . They both need some help. Not only do they need cleaning up and paint, they both are missing some parts. On the lathe it needs the piece that holds the taper attachment to the bed. It is also missing the paw and other parts in the tailstock that catch on the rack in the bed to help keep the tailstock from sliding backward when something heavy is held in the lathe. I would also love to find an owners manuel for it. It looks to have 30 inches swing and a little more then 120 inches between centers. It has 24 inch cast into the head so I guess it will swing that over the carrage. I was told that it weighed 18,000 pounds by the former owner. The machine # is 30983 which is stamped in the ways at the end of the bed. Here is the link to see pictures Lodge and Shipely Lathe - a set on Flickr

The milwalkee mill needs a motor .I was thinking 7-1/2 might be enough. What do you all think that it will take? It needs some parts that were behind the door but are now missing. I have taken a picture behind the door. It looks like some kind of gear arangement that was to go behind the cover plate that is also missing. There is a brass pump hanging there to the right to pump the cutting oil. On the other side there is a door for machine oil so I guess I will have to find out what kind. I am hoping that one of you may have one like this and be able to help me out. Be nice to know when it was made. Here is the link to see this . Milwalkee 2-1/2 b vertical mill - a set on Flickr

 

[Mebfab]

Amazingly small world. That lathes brother was sold at auction out east of us a few days ago. For a minute thought it was the same machine

 

[johnoder]

Early '38 Model G, very last of plain spindle bearing jobs with double spindle nose, no where near 18,000, which would come much later.

The post war 15,000 lb Model G had the "cabinet" legs and bed as one casting, and used the box ways like here. You can also see it has anti-friction spindle bearings and the massive L3 spindle nose. When the "G" was phased out about 1950 (because the 25" Model X had arrived), L&S ended 57 years of making lead screw only lathes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/25ModelGLS.jpg

Head stock innards here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/24 X 168 LS/Headstock/DCP_0988sm.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/24 X 168 LS/Headstock/DCP_0989sm.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/24 X 168 LS/Headstock/DCP_0990.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/24 X 168 LS/Headstock/DCP_0991sm.jpg

Your spindle nose in here, and a way to get those chucks off:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-history/worked-good-183426/


You'll find the mill in here - thanks to Greg Menke for hosting:

http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/kt/kt-milwaukee-catalogue19-circa1917-port.pdf

 

[Robert Campbell Jr.]

I was happy to bring thease two machines home...............

I can fully understand that! Beauties. I'd venture that that mill would give satisfying service for almost any chore with just 5HP. A big face mill and high feed rates might be an exception. I think I'd err on the side of not overloading that old gear train.

Bob

 

[hope]

Thanks John
The information that you gave has been helpful. I guess I need to find an owners manuel for the lathe. That could tell me about using the taper attachment and give a picture of the part that is missing that clamps onto the bed when cutting tapers.It would also help in the selection of the proper oil to go into the head. I am going to have to fix the oil pump on the carrage The plunger is really hard to push down. Other then that a little paint and tender loving care will be all that it needs for now. It sure is a quiet running lathe. Its missing the parts in the tailstock that catches the rack in the bed to hold it in place when cutting a heavy piece. Some more stuff to make for this lathe.

The link for the mill sure answered alot of my questions. That was really good. How do you find this stuff?

I just may take your advice on the motor Bob

 

[johnoder]

Glad to hear. Model A manual put out about the same time (12/14/16" 12 speed L&S) states you would be happier with 20 wt in headstock than 30 wt. Likely has something way too heavy in now if it runs quite, especially in the lower range. I run Exxon Mobile DTE Heavy Medium in my gear head slow speed lathes, or any ISO 68 circulating oil. It is important to know that this same gear oil has to be thin enough to lube (by splash on my 24") those close fitting plain spindle bearings.

My 24" from 1917 has essentially the same head stock you have and rumbles along nicely . You have the "wet" apron where mine you have to squirt oil into ports. When you get your pump working like you want, I would use Exxon Mobil Vacuoline 1409 way oil in it, or any way oil that still has TACKIFIERS.

Don't have and have never seen a manual for these 12 speed big lathes. Closest ever found was this pre 1930, which isn't much help.

LS Manual pre1930 Photos by reelhooker1414 | Photobucket

Your machine is just an improved version of this 24" from 1916 - thanks to Mike C. for the scan:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/L and S 1916 Catalog/LSpg44.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/L and S 1916 Catalog/LSpg45.jpg

On the mill catalog scan, you can thank Dave Hamilton for buying the catalog and Greg Menke for scanning and hosting it.

I'll take some photos and dimensions on my T/A clamp doo dad and post them here. May not be exactly the same, like the distance from back of rear way to center of pull rod, but will give you an idea of what L&S used.

You do have the later T/A. When this first came out in the twenties, L&S named it the "Oil Country" and used on their hollow spindle versions of this lathe (10" spindle hole at first, bigger later). It became standard on all their lathes and any manual for later smaller L&S lathes will reveal how it works.

Thanks John
The information that you gave has been helpful. I guess I need to find an owners manuel for the lathe. That could tell me about using the taper attachment and give a picture of the part that is missing that clamps onto the bed when cutting tapers.It would also help in the selection of the proper oil to go into the head. I am going to have to fix the oil pump on the carrage The plunger is really hard to push down. Other then that a little paint and tender loving care will be all that it needs for now. It sure is a quiet running lathe. Its missing the parts in the tailstock that catches the rack in the bed to hold it in place when cutting a heavy piece. Some more stuff to make for this lathe.

The link for the mill sure answered alot of my questions. That was really good. How do you find this stuff?

I just may take your advice on the motor Bob

 

[johnoder]

Here are the TA bed clamp photos. If you like, private message me your email address and I'll send a scan of the taper attachment operation page from the November 1936 Model A manual

 

[hope]

Here are the TA bed clamp photos. If you like, private message me your email address and I'll send a scan of the taper attachment operation page from the November 1936 Model A manual

Sorry to be so long to reply I found a manuel for a 25 inch lathe That is real close to my 24 inch I am needing to make some gears to drive the lead screw I have enough to make it work but am missing some that work to reverse the thread or to give the full threading range that I need

 

[johnoder]

Sorry to be so long to reply I found a manuel for a 25 inch lathe That is real close to my 24 inch I am needing to make some gears to drive the lead screw I have enough to make it work but am missing some that work to reverse the thread or to give the full threading range that I need

Member TexasAggie may be willing to photograph that end for you of the 24" of mine that he has now. Its includes a simple casting holding gears that you can "rock" on its pivot to reverse lead screw (this does require loosening a clamp bolt)

Very similar to this smaller machine



And where your reversing lever is

 

[hope]

Here are the pictures

Member TexasAggie may be willing to photograph that end for you of the 24" of mine that he has now. Its includes a simple casting holding gears that you can "rock" on its pivot to reverse lead screw (this does require loosening a clamp bolt)

Very similar to this smaller machine

View attachment 322083

I am having trouble loading pictures

 

[hope]

This is the picture of the end of my lathe
https://www.fastmailusercontent.com...wQlbigdSYoZRfP-foH3Zm6uOnGw&accept=image/jpeg
The picture turned sideways. I believe the picture that you sent is like my lathe I need to know the # of teeth for the missing gears I know that they are 7 pitch What I have is 40 teeth on one and the other is 54 teeth

 

[johnoder]

Those two stub shaft holes you can see have some nice machining - like close fits for the collar on the shaft that fit in the counter bore part of the holes.

This suggests to me that it would be a fairly easy to get the plate off and do some center line dimensioning - then it is easy to say exactly the tooth count needed for the mating gear

For instance, your fifty-four tooth 7DP has a pitch diameter of 7.7143. If the C/L dim was that 7. 7143, another 54 tooth would fit right on - but you can see it would be less than that

The math is simple - PD1 plus PD2 divided by 2 is the center distance

As to the gears, you need three - just as shown in the photos posted - the first two making up a compound - which just means a big gear attached to and working with a smaller gear. This is where your extra feeds and threads come from you are wanting. Your bottom most gear - called the "slip gear" gets involved with the compound gearing by pulling it out - - its shown in this photo



Another big Model G owner is member alskdjfhg - maybe he will find time to take some photos and count some teeth on the business end of his

 

[hope]

Thank you for your help
maybe alskdjfhg will have a picture. I am guessing that the two large gears that are missing would have 40 teeth like the other 40 tooth gears that are there. That way when I moved the lever it would reverse the direction of the thread thus enabling me to cut a left hand thread. Right now I have no idea what the small one would be. This is just my guess. I will have to take the The math is simple - PD1 plus PD2 divided by 2 is the center distance. that you gave and see if I am right and find the size and teeth of the smaller gear and verify my guess on the 40 tooth gears.

 

[johnoder]

Here is a scan (from February 1926) which suggests that if you assume the big (54 tooth) one is on this drawing, then the large gear of the compound would be 42 and the small would be 21 - but your carefully measured center distances will over ride such assuming

You can measure this drawing directly on a good sized PC screen (mine is 22" diagonal) and come up with whatever - assuming you don't mind figuring out its decimal size of the real world. My screen shows details on the drawing are .317 the size of the real world 54 tooth gear - but you have to come up with whatever ratio YOUR equipment provides

This file could also be emailed full size of what is there if you want to Private Message me that address - with something useful in the subject line - like Model G

Thank you for your help
maybe alskdjfhg will have a picture. I am guessing that the two large gears that are missing would have 40 teeth like the other 40 tooth gears that are there. That way when I moved the lever it would reverse the direction of the thread thus enabling me to cut a left hand thread. Right now I have no idea what the small one would be. This is just my guess. I will have to take the The math is simple - PD1 plus PD2 divided by 2 is the center distance. that you gave and see if I am right and find the size and teeth of the smaller gear and verify my guess on the 40 tooth gears.