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Picked up my Grandfathers Heavy 10

Anatol

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 19, 2018
Location
Los Angeles
I was thinking the N was for Navy, but didn't say because ... didn't know.
I was also thinking the R in LQR was for railroad, but...no such railroad.
 

SLK001

Stainless
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Location
Coral Springs, FL USA
The LQR stamp is for the government inspector who approved the lathe for shipment. The JAN is for "Joint Army-Navy" - a build standard for the services.
 

Rudd

Stainless
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Location
savannah, jaw-ja
If it was Navy you'd see the navy anchor symbol stamped in the bed near the serial number. Mine is ex Navy. It gets in arguments with my ex Air Force milling machine.
 

michiganbuck

Diamond
Joined
Jun 28, 2012
Location
Mt Clemens, Michigan 48035
Likely you know that lathes are very easy to tip over and that happens often, just a little push to the front or back side can tip them over.

If you try to put it on a trailer put a jack stand under the trailer so it can not tip at loading does not tip at loading.

There are a lot of machine-moving threads here on PM.
 

SteelrFn

Stainless
Joined
Jul 19, 2021
I bet, if alive, your grandpa is proud that his grandson learned his trade...or he is smiling down on you in heaven
Thanks for sharing
 

tallfreak

Plastic
Joined
Feb 27, 2021
Thanks guys.

My grandfather purchased it from International Harvester in Memphis, but we don't know when. We suspect it is when the IH plant shut down in 1978 IIRC.

I moved it ready from MN to MS so the hard part of the move is over. I have it on some dollies right now so I can roll it around my shop.

I am not in that trade. I was a BMW mechanic for 12.5 years and now work for a steel mill. But I have always been interested in the old school machinist trade. My grandfather was a machinist for IH then went to school and became an engineer for IH. Like I said he is highly regarded in my family and by all accounts was a very smart man and a great machinist. Unfortunately I don't remember a lot about him aside from a few times in his shop catching sparks in a pill bottle and smashing things with a hammer on the anvil.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Dan from Oakland

Titanium
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Oakland, CA
Please don't take a file to the ways. If the ways are dinged up, a small flat oilstone is the best way to smooth them over. Dip the oilstone in solvent or mineral spirits to keep it from clogging up.
 

woodchuckNJ

Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 7, 2014
Location
NJ
Quick change tool post (qctp) very achievable.

Aloris style qctp come in sizes: axa, bxa, cxa, ca, and da.

I think you need bxa, but maybe axa size.

Aloris being american made is most expensive. But there are also copies and chinese brands running down to stupid cheap.

To determin your size. remove current tool post. Measure directly from top of compound rest to centerline of spindle. Keep that number handy.

Aloris website shows spec on tools. Bxa:
Super-Precision Tool Post BXA

Note dimension C in the pic.

Now look at a tool holder dimension:
Turning and Facing Holder BXA-1

Top of Dimension D in this pic can only travel to a max of the top dimension C in tool post pic. Where your tool tip will be at a max of dimension A in this pic.

So that is the max height, but it can go lower. You're matching that to the lathe centerline measurement you took.

A 10" is an AXA.
I recommend the BOSTAR for the price its really good. Go for the wedge lock not the piston lock.
CDCO Machinery Corp.
 

Roger Best

Plastic
Joined
Dec 31, 2020
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Hi tallfreak,
Great thread, thanks for all the advice chaps, it applies to me just as much.

I believe that the last photo is of a crotch center, used in the tailstock for cross drilling round items. I followed up on the references posted and on page 47 of the 1943 catalogue there is a very similar item.

Good luck with the renovation.
 








 
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