I’m going to controversial here because I know this is a subject that lots of US machine tool owners have difficulty with. Is there provision for fastening the machine to the floor ?
The first two pictures are of the machine’s leveling screws and provisions for tie-down. There is a through hole in the middle of these bolts.
The last two pictures are what I could find in Pratt & Whitney’s instruction book on leveling and bolting the machine down.
Interesting. I see you have the same aversion to fastening the lathe down that I’ve noticed in other installations in the US....
I’m not so sure it is an aversion as it is a reluctance with this past year being a good example. I recently sold a lathe that was sitting in the middle of my shop. It required the removal of three other machines to get to it. Once the new lathe was in place, it would of course not have matched the original footprint of the other thus it would have required more holes. Based on the number of times I’ve moved my machines, I would have a lot of holes by now.
I do however believe that machines such as the Pratt & Whitney and the American Pacemaker which sit on independent pedestals might benefit somewhat from being bolted down in terms of rigidity and stiffness. But I have not found these two qualities lacking in either machine. I would be very interested in hearing your views on this subject given your experience.
I liked the machines with squared off headstock. The ones with the flat headstock cover not the domed headstock cover. Having said that anything from “ DSG “ was top notch “. They never made a bad machine. The CNC machines that came out around the time of the “ Monarch “ tie up were excellent machines also.
“ Lang “ was another really excellent British lathe, they were made in Scotland, they’re also a nation with an excellent reputation in the engineering world.
If we’re talking really big lathes “ Craven “ and “ Swift “ took some beating.
I do use Glyptal 1201 in both quart and spray. I prefer the quart as it is a little thicker. I usually just brush it on the inside of a gear box then I always make sure to “bake” it. I do this by wrapping it in a welding blanket and dropping a 100-watt light bulb inside, leaving it over night or so. This speeds up the curing process. If you do use it in a gear box, I recommend waiting until it is hard enough that you can’t stick a fingernail in it before you add oil. Also, you must make sure that whatever you apply it to is completely degreased.
... 1201B apparently an extra thick version of 1201. You had mentioned it was thick, I was wondering if you used the B version or regular 1201....
Who are the furry four legged inspectors keeping an eye on your work?
I sent you a potential way to screen capture from a windows pc. The end result is a smaller file size than most original pic file sizes.I have a few more pictures to post before I wrap this up. However, I'm running into an issue with the file size of my pictures. I'll finish this out when I get that figured out.