The posts are displaying well in the new format, and I must say you take nice pictures! The spindle bearings are lubed with circulating oil from the tank. Take care to clean out the oil lines and the mesh screen in the reservoir. Good luck!
BEARING & SPINDLE RE-ASSEMBLY
... those tiny bolts which lock up the ring and were so tight to remove. Still debating if to loctite them in with some medium goo but not sure yet so they are nipped up with an Allen wrench at the moment
Should be good enough. If only barely.Wise words indeed, will look into that suggestion about the 'green' Loctite.
I may also order two new bolts as I'm sure the hex drive heads have been slightly damaged/deformed as a result of removing them, also will grind off the end of the hex driver to ensure a crisp new end with flat faces to give the best chance of fixture and ultimately removal at some stage down the line.
Hi had a quick look at the Bristol site, nice concept however looks like finding a big range of metric bolts will be a challenge as it seems its imperial only sadly. These tiny bolts (M5x10) are part threaded with a shank area near the head and the head is CS which means these little items are not an 'off the shelf' item as far as I can tell.Should be good enough. If only barely.
I don't LIKE "hex" atall. Too easily damaged to the point of useless.
First choice Bristol, second choice Torx II/Torx plus, rather.
A Schaublin is "worth" Bristol fasteners, yah?
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Blighty has tons of speciality (and general) fastener suppliers. The 'Continent ' ships fast, too.Hi had a quick look at the Bristol site, nice concept however looks like finding a big range of metric bolts will be a challenge as it seems its imperial only sadly. These tiny bolts (M5x10) are part threaded with a shank area near the head and the head is CS which means these little items are not an 'off the shelf' item as far as I can tell.
If anyone knows of a source great, and for me a Torx would be a nice alternative as think they have a large metric range of fixings.
Clever enough. Nicely executed. But I am puzzled.The new design where the Variator is mounted on a shaft that spins in bearings rather than the Variator spinning around a fixed shaft requires a coupling design that allows the Variator to not only spin the shaft but also allows a small amount of lateral movement along the shaft so the belts self-centre once the machine is up and running following the re-design.
A locking device or set screw would not allow the lateral movement so we have designed what we call a 'split drive dog'.
On the end of the bronze Variator sleeve is a flange which allows the end disc of one pulley to be fixed to the shaft by four bolts, this is the end of the Variator which is deepest inside the cabinet ... (picture taken before cleaning etc)
View attachment 367564
The plan was the remove around 9mm from this brass flange in depth and remaking a part 9mm deep which bolted on the end so maintaining the original depth, this split drive dog would use the bolt holes to fix the pulley to the brass Variator sleeve but also using a flat machined into the end of the shaft would engage and turn the shaft as the pulley spun, the machined flat would be wider than 9mm allowing some lateral movement along the shaft whilst still maintaining full rotational engagement.
The crude sketch ...
View attachment 367565
The sketch developed into a CAD drawing and to maintain rotational balance we decided to make a extra part that slid into the open slot and that would be permanently bolted in place so the whole split ring dog would not spin out of balance.
Machining and end result ...
View attachment 367566View attachment 367568View attachment 367570View attachment 367571View attachment 367573
So interesting comments and great to get this sort of feedback and questioning.Clever enough. Nicely executed. But I am puzzled.
I have three "slightly" different variators here. One Reeves, one Reeves-like that IIRC is a licensed clone, and the Cazeneuve-patented hydraulically-operated one on the HBX-360-BC. I had repaired "many" smaller size (2 HP or less) Reeves drives on sheet-offset printing presses, forever-ago as well, so not a lot of "mystery" to them, nor where and how they degrade, innards on-out ... to my way of thinking.
Every one of those (but perhaps not those on a Sheldon..) expects ONE of the "cones" to be in a fixed position, axially. Against which... the drive belt finds a proper tracking position as the movable cone is actuated or "follows" under spring - or hydraulic - influence. There is not only no need of allowance for the belt to seek any other course, it is detrimental if/as/when it were to be allowed to "float" to do so.
On one, (the Quartet combo mill), operation was sore noisy as prior owner had recorded in a You Tube video. The control yoke - which had been cracked, then crudely repaired - was THOUGHT to be the cause, but was the VICTIM, rather.
The ACTUAL cause was tracked down to a roller-thrust bearing having failed, the designer having selected the wrong type... of two options.
Failure had allowed about fifty thou of departure from the intended position of the fixed cone - which was deleterious to belt life (frayed edge) as well as noisy. New thrust bearing adjsuted to poer alignment is what was REALLY called-for - control yoke imperfections not the critical item.
So - given Schaublin's OEM designs are generally well-regarded and durable as-had, and "pioneers get arrows in their a**"
I have to ask:
- Have you just "fixed" the wrong problem?
- Potentially exchanged one problem for a different one?
Or...... made a genuine and enduring improvement?
If so, how so?