Protohawk Machine

[Ox]

Thanks for the quote.
I see that I missed the 't that changes the whole thing.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[pianoman8t8]

My bad Ox, I must have fat-fingered-deleted the 't during my typing, you had included it originally. I did a bad quoting job. LOL

 

[Ox]

NO NO!

I edited my post!


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[pianoman8t8]

*facepalm* lol

 

[Fal Grunt]

pianoman8t8,

a word from the ignorant, if you ask your builder to put in 12ft ceilings, make sure they understand that means a MINIMUM of 12ft ceilings.

I spec'd 12ft ceilings for my building, when the builders were done, the trusses sat at 11' 7". By the time I put in stringers and the ceiling panels it is 11' 4".

Fortunately I wound up buying a Brother, and not the Mazak I had planned, which if I remember right, the Mazak was 11' 6" or there abouts, with the z fully up. I remember this only because I asked Mazak what the smallest door I could fit a new 720 through, and they said it could easily go in a 10x10 door.

 

[pianoman8t8]

I don't believe I'll have to clarify anything to any builders, it'll likely be me building it lol
It'll be a slanted ceiling likely, taller on one side than the other, and my intent is to have the shorter side 11-12ft, while the other will be whatever a 1:12 pitch yields over 24-28ft (couple feet or so taller)

 

[michiganbuck]

QT op: [Mostly motorsports stuff that could be +/-0.020" without issue.]
and done with a hack saw and a file for fininshing...
Braging about .002 for mill work is not worth saying anything at all.

Back in school shop class we figured an old Brdgeport good for .001.

 

[Garwood]

pianoman8t8,

a word from the ignorant, if you ask your builder to put in 12ft ceilings, make sure they understand that means a MINIMUM of 12ft ceilings.

I spec'd 12ft ceilings for my building, when the builders were done, the trusses sat at 11' 7". By the time I put in stringers and the ceiling panels it is 11' 4".

Fortunately I wound up buying a Brother, and not the Mazak I had planned, which if I remember right, the Mazak was 11' 6" or there abouts, with the z fully up. I remember this only because I asked Mazak what the smallest door I could fit a new 720 through, and they said it could easily go in a 10x10 door.

That seems pretty common. Especially with pole buildings. For example, you want 16' ceilings. Builder buys 20' posts instead of 22's. 4' has to go in the ground. The truss takes 8" and how thick is that slab going to be? That 16' just became 14'6" and the builder still thinks your getting 16' somehow. I think they go off the length of the siding on the outside for whatever reason.

Probably like how some people like to give you the size of a machine by the table dimensions, but the work envelope is really what matters.

 

[pianoman8t8]

probably like how some people like to give you the size of a machine by the table dimensions, but the work envelope is really what matters.

exactly!!!

 

[Ox]

I don't believe I'll have to clarify anything to any builders, it'll likely be me building it lol
It'll be a slanted ceiling likely, taller on one side than the other, and my intent is to have the shorter side 11-12ft, while the other will be whatever a 1:12 pitch yields over 24-28ft (couple feet or so taller)

A 1/12 in Maine?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

[pianoman8t8]

Hopefully... with a metal roof, so *hopefully* it slides off easily either on it's own, or if I need to shovel it when it gets heavy. I'm limited in slope in my case.. I'm planning to add onto my existing garage/shop, which has 8ft ceiling. Planning to dig down a bit next to it, say 3-4ft away, about 3-4ft deep, and 20-24ft wide at that point. Garage is sort of built into a hill, parallel to the hill, so where I want to go down on the other side of garage, land is already sloped away a bit.

Anyway, reason for minimal slope, is so I don't interfere with 2nd story windows of garage. If I maintain not interfering with those, the slope will essentially dictate what height the "short" end will be, once the depth relationship of new pad to current pad is defined (3-4ft). Make sense? I believe I'd be going with a 14" or 16" wood I beam for rafters, to span that length unsupported (further reducing ceiling height). I don't want posts in the middle. Now, where the concrete "shoulder" would be at the 3-4ft out, 3-4ft down location, I plan to add support there to the roof vertically, so the 24ft wide addition roof isn't putting all that weight on existing garage wall (2x4 wall). It already has enough load on it. I can screenshot my model of my plans, but I don't want to hijack Rick's thread. I don't have enough of a shop to start my own thread lol.

Those I beams were spec'd out by a local lumber supplier/designer, 90psf snow load, 1/12 pitch.

 

[Rick Finsta]

The Z axis moves up and down on the X Axis, so it doesn't actually extend or retract visibly outside the machine enclosure. The tallest part is the guide for the utilities going down into the Z/X axis, which is 108.11" off the ground including the leveling feet/pucks at installed height.

 

[pianoman8t8]

The Z axis moves up and down on the X Axis

I'm not following, but that's ok. 108", not bad really. So the head doesn't go up and down like the Sharp SV2412 does?

 

[Rick Finsta]

No, the X axis has a fixed upper height which is the cable/utility guide. The Z axis is attached to the X-axis (it is a bridge-ish machine, the table only moves in Y) and does not go up above the sheet metal at its highest point. So when you look at a picture of the machine, the dark gray or black T-shaped sheet metal in the center on the top is as tall as it gets.

 

[pianoman8t8]

No, the X axis has a fixed upper height which is the cable/utility guide. The Z axis is attached to the X-axis (it is a bridge-ish machine, the table only moves in Y) and does not go up above the sheet metal at its highest point. So when you look at a picture of the machine, the dark gray or black T-shaped sheet metal in the center on the top is as tall as it gets.

Ah, I see it now. Somehow I missed that detail the 1st time I looked on their site.

 

[Rick Finsta]

Whew. Drywallers finally got in and got the sanding done (I needed to schedule it when I could shut down for a few days) and then I knocked out the painting as well. Got a few days to catch up and then I'm putting up the lower steel wall and block curb along the bottom.

Before:

After:

Here is the panel going up. It looks darker in pictures than in person:

The new view from my office:

There are eight 4000 lumen 8 foot LED lights going up in there, so it should be stupid bright even with the black ceiling.

Business has been very steady, which is nice. Getting fixturing set up for a few of the hand tools and getting everything into the ERP system. Having multi-level BOM in JobBOSS is going to be great for keeping track of all this.

 

[BROTHERFRANK]

Shop is looking great Rick! I'm digging the ceiling. You going to pretty up the floor when the construction is done? Hope all is going well for you.

 

[Rick Finsta]

Thanks! You can see the floor color in the pictures of the VMC. It is a Sherwin Williams product... 8100 multi-part epoxy in a very light battleship-gray like color. Between that and the high reflectivity white on the upper walls I think it will be very bright despite the dark ceiling. We'll see (literally).

I like light colors for floors in shops because you can see dirt easily, which forces cleaning on the regular.

 

[woodsrider845]

Can I get fries with that? Cuz, I mean......

 

[Rick Finsta]

I don't get it?

Epoxy came in and got some of the floor done. I'm doing it in stages, but it requires some planning. It has a recoat time of <72 hours or >7 days, and I've got the electricians finally coming in Monday and Tuesday to get things rocking. I can't remember if I mentioned Menards messed up a bunch of the wall panels, so I got those exchanged yesterday.

Orders are still steady.