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Quick Turn 15 Tailstock body slips. Help!

Hi Everyone,

I'm finally getting around to using the tailstock on the qt 15 and the tailstock body gets pushed back when I engage the quill against the work. This happens even with the tailstock quill pressure adjusted SUPER low. How do I fix this?

Also, there's a switch inside the electrical cabinet door next to the chuck ID OD clamp switch that says tailstock " clamp" and "unclamp". Right now it's in "clamp". How shall that switch be positioned and for what???

Thanks very much guys,

Grant
 

yardbird

Active member
I had this happen on a Cincinnati Avenger from time to time. I had to take to cover of the side and tighten up a couple of bolts that came loose occasionally. My guess would be that the clamp is out of stroke. At least that was my situation.


Brent
 

yardbird

Active member
I tightened the bolts while the tailstock was in the clamped position. You want to be sure when its unclamped it is moving freely. Do you have clamp/unclamp switch on the control panel or Is it automatic? Some do some dont. The Avenger didn't. Does it sound like it the clamp/unclamp working?


Brent
 

yardbird

Active member
Sorry I didn't notice that this thread was in the Mazak forum when I posted. sometimes im bad about that.


Brent
 

Richard King

Active member
As long as you have some guards off check to be sure some chips haven't worked under the TS. Lock it up and see if you can slide in a .001 or .002" feeler gage in anywhere. Rich
 

machtool

New member
That's a hydraulic clamped tailstock. Coils are prone to burning out. I'd be looking there first. If you toggle that clamp / unclamp switch, you should be able to see or feel the lines twitch as the pressure changes sides. You might also notice a slight dip on the pressure gage. You might need a second set of hands to work the switch while you have a look.

Regards Phil.

(On Edit). You can swap a coil from the tailstock advance / retract solenoid for testing.
 

wippin' boy

New member
There are bolts going through the clamp cylinders into the clamping plates( look kinda like t-nuts) .bolts are Under front cover of tailbody. The bitch part is the locking screws are in a shitty spot through the side under chain cover. Tighten them with power off so tailbody can just move under power.
 

zak300sy

New member
Piggyback on whipping boy's reply. We've had several with a T+ control. It sounds from your description that you've got a T32 control, but i'm pretty sure the iron is the same on these ones. There is a DOUBLE SET SCREW + a brass keeper on the two T+ vintage machines i've torn into. Down under the ways on the clamp plates. You'll have to access one from the front and remove sheet metal off the back end to access the other. Make sure everything is super clean under there. Take the cover off the side of the tailstock, you'll see a couple of shafts with a hex on the end. Do it with the power off so you're not fighting the hydraulic on the clamp mechanism. The other problem we had with one is that the underside of the ways is so worn & beat up in one spot, it will still slip. Only run one part on that machine, so we made up some special tool holders to do the end work that will clear the tail stock. Also save a boatload of time by not moving tail body back and forth ever part, only the quill moves. It was a parameter change on the T+. I think the switch you referred to in post #1 will do what I just described on the earlier controls.
 

wippin' boy

New member
Missed switch question.
Should be in clamped position
Unclamp is for service works discussed
I forgot the switch was there. I just turn control off to make adjustments.
 
Thanks guys!!

I think it's mechanical, the hoses are definitely jumping when the solenoid moves it's spool.

I'll have to dig for the locking screws, but then it looks pretty straight forward. I'm so glad I asked, I knew it could not be as easy as simply tightening the big obvious bolts under the ts cover.

Thank you again all,

Grant
 

Cole2534

New member
Got it! Now the tailstock will actually build pressure on the gauge instead of just moving the body back.

First you remove the way covers, front and rear to expose the 2 pairs of set screws. They're hidden by grease and grime in these pics, but they most certainly must be loosened. I just backed them off a turn or two.

20211130_094023.jpg

20211130_094426.jpg

Now remove the tailbody's cover to expose the clamp screws.

20211130_094044.jpg

With the control off, I tightened them about 1/2 half turn each. This reduced my running gap between the shoe and the way from well over 1/8" to maybe a 1/16"? I didn't gage it.

Turn on the control to run some test cycles and if you're content turn the control off then reassemble.

It's dead simple, just gotta get to those set screws. The first thing I noticed is that the body moves and stops much more smoothly.
 
 
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