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Quincy 350 Compressor won't build more than 20PSI...

 
Thank you. I got distracted with my dog being sick so I didn't end up calling Quincy yesterday about local service, but if you look through those pages it doesn't show any companies in Jacksonville, and if directs you to the Palm Coast (over an hour away) section of their website and they don't provide company names to call. I am guessing they will be traveling to me from wherever they are, so the service call in itself is going to be very expensive.

I know I sound like some dumbass little kid that doesn't know Jack, but I am just completely ignorant to industrial compressors, and my electrical knowledge is somewhat limited. I also know I sound like the cheapest MFer in the world, but this damn unloader crapped out on me at the absolute worst time. I have a huge order that I am working on, and I am already overextended due to the high cost of the materials for this order. Once I finish and get it delivered, I will have plenty on money left over to pay for a trained tech to come fix my machine, but I HAVE to do things on a shoe string budget right now.
 
It takes time for the oil pressure to bleed off. As it is coasting down, the oil pump is still turning and making pressure, so the pump will not unload until the compressor has come to a full stop and oil pressure has dropped to a point where the hydraulic unloader can retract and let air through. It will not freewheel down without pumping, so expect it to stop fairly quickly, then you will get a blast of air out of the side of the unloaders as the piston pushes down on the pins and blows down the cylinders.

I am familiar with Quincy Rogers Northwestern, as I saw their tag on a 1971 150hp Quincy QSI rotary screw in northern Saskatchewan back in the mid 90s. The compressor was 25 years old and still humming along happily. Probably still is.

Quincy is headquartered in Bay Minette Alabama now, so I am surprised that it is so hard to find a dealer.

THANK YOU so much for spending the time and holding my hand through this ;) !!!

I bought my QR-350 at a local auction from a metal fab shop that made pressurized tanks (similar to what the compressor is sitting on and much larger) so it was rode hard and put away VERY wet and dirt for many years with them.

When I brought it home it was filthy and I didn't have the reserve power in my electrical panel to install it, so the compressor just sat for at least a year before i got it hooked up. When that time came, I hadn't paid attention to what the nameplate voltage was on the motor so I didn't have my electrician install a Buck/Boost Transformer to get my supply voltage up from 208VAC 3-phase to 230VAC. I really wish I had done that so my starting and running amps wouldn't be so high.

That being said, when I did get it hooked up and running for the first time, I had zero issues with contactors welding shut (even when it had a cheap 30 Amp 3-pole definite purpose contactor) because the unloader was working properly (or at least that is what I thought until reading your latest post) and when the pressure switch activated the motor, everything was unloaded and it didn't start making air about 3-4 seconds after startup. When the pressure switch turned off the motor, it would activate the unloader almost instantly, so the motor would actually spin down freely and would take about 20 seconds for the motor to stop spinning. Evidently, that is not what the unloader is supposed to do, so it must have been showing me signs of failure all those years ago.

At the time of the initial install, none of my router jigs or machines were designed to use air pressure to clear out the saw dust chips (in my case PVC chips) so it never really got much use besides turning on once a day or so to refill the tank from leakage. The compressor remained sidelined like this for a good year before I jumped back into it and starting building new jigs that relied on the air pressure. Of course at that time the unloader started to act up (my first cheap contactor welded shut) and I just figured it was due to the cheap contactor. So I bought a larger one at 50 Amps, and it started working again for a few weeks before the unloader failed again and welded shut.

I then started researching it, and started talking to you guys about rebuilding the unloaders and intake valves and draining the old milky oil, refilling, running, draining, refilling, and running with new oil. That part of the compressor is good to go (in my book at least). After that work the unloader was still working but it was touchy. It made it through life about 6 months of hard work before I got to my current situation.

I am going to fix the unloader when the parts come in, but for the time being I REALLY need this thing to limp by until then. My cheapo contactors arrived yesterday and i was thinking I could wire THREE 3-Pole 40 Amp Inductive Contactors in parallel so that each #6 supply line can be split into three parallel paths through each contactor. I am hoping that if one of the
passages get overloaded and heats up (should increase the resistance) and more of the current should then flow through the other two passages to keep it from welding itself together.

Here is a schematic of what I was thinking for this idea...
 

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Take the cover off the crank case and clean the goop out of the bottom.
Do not use motor oil, use Amsoil air compressor oil, 20wt if it gets cold, 30wt if the temps don't get
below 30f
Thanks for the heads up. I will do that when I get some downtime.

I have that exact oil on hand and will be swapping over to it once I have everything worked out. I did use quaker state high mileage oil on the last refill because REAL compressor oil is not cheap. I didn't want to refill with good stuff, if I hadn't fully fixed the problem that was causing the milky oil, but that was about 6 months ago and the oil still looks brand new on the dipstick.
 
I finally got the new unloader rebuild kit installed, and it is now obvious to me why I was getting the results from my post earlier in this thread. I said it right in my testing procedure...

"The following sequence was performed with roughly 30 PSI in the receiver tank (leftover air from testing the first sequence). Air is obviously blowing out of the Cap (#11) hole when it is removed.....
If I re-install the little brass Outer Valve (#9) AND REINSTALL THE SPRING (#10) inside the Cap (#11) and then re-install the cap...Then I will get the intake piston unloaded when I turn on the power to the breaker, and then the oil pressure will build up to normal and magically it loads the pump and it starts making air."

It is IMPOSSIBLE to put the unloader back together properly, if there is built up pressure inside the receiver tank!!!! There is no chance in hell that you are going to be able to put the tiny Push Pod (#6) back into its tiny hole, when air is pushing against the push rod and trying to blow it out of the unloader cap hole.
So obviously, the first time I opened the cap hole I DID NOT end up catching the tiny push rod, when it got shot out by the air pressure, so i was not re-installing it properly for any of those tests.

Now I am back in business, and the unloader is working perfectly each time. Compressor motor turns on with the intake valve open like it is supposed to do, and then ~3 seconds after startup the oil pressure builds and the intake valve is allowed to function properly and the compressor starts making air.
I have my pressure switch setup to turn on at 120 PSI and turn off at ~160. Hopefully that is a good range.
When I am using my most AIR THIRSTY cutting jig, then the compressor will remain on until my cutting operation is finished (which could be over an hour sometimes). I think the gauge on the receiver tanks reads around 150 PSI when that cutting jig is running.
When the tank is fully pressurized and i turn on my cutting jig, it takes roughly 4 minutes for the air pressure to bleed down to 120PSI, and my regulator on that air circuit is setup at 110 PSI.
I don't know if that provides any relevant information for you but I figured I would mention it.

Thanks again to everyone that helped me out during this process. This is such a great community!!!!
 
Take the cover off the crank case and clean the goop out of the bottom.
Do not use motor oil, use Amsoil air compressor oil, 20wt if it gets cold, 30wt if the temps don't get
below 30f

HOLY CRAP, that was disgusting!!!!! I am sooooooo glad you told me to do this. I never would have thought that the crank case would hold so much nasty old oil and junk down in the bottom of the unit. There was roughly 3/4" thick of sludgy, milky, nasty oil that i had to suck out with a small hose and a shop-vac.

Now I have brand new Synthetic Reciprocating Oil in the compressor, and it looks so nice and pretty in the crank case now!!!
This is what I had bought 2 YEARS ago, when I was first messing around with this compressor, and I hope you guys are going to say it is acceptable for this application????? It was only $130 back then, but i would hate to waste that oil if i don't need to.
 
HOLY CRAP, that was disgusting!!!!! I am sooooooo glad you told me to do this. I never would have thought that the crank case would hold so much nasty old oil and junk down in the bottom of the unit. There was roughly 3/4" thick of sludgy, milky, nasty oil that i had to suck out with a small hose and a shop-vac.

Now I have brand new Synthetic Reciprocating Oil in the compressor, and it looks so nice and pretty in the crank case now!!!
This is what I had bought 2 YEARS ago, when I was first messing around with this compressor, and I hope you guys are going to say it is acceptable for this application????? It was only $130 back then, but i would hate to waste that oil if i don't need to.
Yes that sounds like a good oil choice. However, now that you say the CC was that messed up, I should have told you to remove the oil pickup and clean/inspect the screen as well. People ignore the CC because the oil floating on top of the goop looks nice. I would go back in and check/clean the inlet screen. Or maybe it can be removed from the outside? I forget now.
 
Yes that sounds like a good oil choice. However, now that you say the CC was that messed up, I should have told you to remove the oil pickup and clean/inspect the screen as well. People ignore the CC because the oil floating on top of the goop looks nice. I would go back in and check/clean the inlet screen. Or maybe it can be removed from the outside? I forget now.
I did not remove the inlet screen, but i did look it over from the outside and it looked to be in good condition.
I bought a cheap hour meter and will get that installed soon. This way i know how many hours the oil has been used for. IR recommends 2000 hours for the oil change with the product that i used, so when I get close to that I will open the CC back up and clean the screen.
 
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