Removing 10EE Monarch collet closer and spindle pulley

[skydvrbob]

I can't remember how to remove the collet closer slip part off of spindle so I can change the main drive pulley. It has a 3/16 key that won't come out.

 

[skydvrbob]

This key is the one I'm talking about.

 

[Cal Haines]

What make, model and year lathe are you asking about?

 

[skydvrbob]

Sorry, square dial 10ee.

 

[Cal Haines]

Sorry, I'm trying to remember how this works. IIRC, if you slide the sleeve to the left, away from the headstock, that should expose two large dog-point setscrews, 180 degrees apart. If you remove those, the entire closer assembly, complete with draw-tube should slide off of the end of the spindle.

You can't remove the key that you've circled without removing the sleeve from the closer body and there's no need to remove it unless the key itself is damaged.

More information about this model collet closer here:

lever collet closer

I’m posting this partly in response to DaveC’s request for information about collet closers, partly because these are fairly rare and may be of general interest, and partly to ask for suggestions on reconditioning my collet closer. My 1943 round dial 10EE is equipped with (what I believe to be)...

www.practicalmachinist.com

 

[IceCzar]

Good question

in reality I've yet to get past the wheel support which may or may not be Monarch at the end to loosen the plug and spring to slide anything anywhere

 

[IceCzar]

just double checked I dont have a key (1944 round dial) I dont think Cal has a key or the Drawings Ive seen (follow link Cal provided)

 

[Cal Haines]

Yes, mine has a key. Depending on how nice a job they did fitting the key, it may be almost invisible. Look 120 degrees clockwise from the setscrew on the sleeve. The key is part B-872 on square-dial parts sheet 129.


Note that this isn't a normal key. It's similar to a "tit key". The oval section that you see sticking through the OD of the sleeve is a tab machined onto the top of the key, to hold the key in place. (A normal tit key just has a round pin to keep the key in place.) The tab is the same width as the key (3/16") but about 1/4" shorter than the bottom part of the key.

What's different with skydvrbob's machine is that his sleeve doesn't have the step down on the headstock end that other versions of the closer seem to have.

 

[IceCzar]

had it reversed. its damn near invisible and half in the cover

Thanks Cal

 

[skydvrbob]

It has a stepdown but it doesn't seem deep enough to let the key fall out of the sleeve. I've had this apart a long time ago but don't remember how I did it. Thanks for all your replies.

 

[Cal Haines]

Please post a better photo.

You don't need to remove the key. You can't remove the sleeve without removing the entire collet closer assembly from the end of the spindle. Move the sleeve to the left, look for the two large screws that hold the closer body onto the spindle.

 

[skydvrbob]

Is it screwed on or a taper fit?

 

[Cal Haines]

Neither. It's a cylindrical slip fit onto the end of the spindle. It's held in place by two large, dog-point setscrews, 180 degrees apart. The setscrews are under the sliding sleeve. If the sleeve won't move far enough to the left to expose the setscrews, you need to remove the draw-tube. This link shows how:

lever collet closer

I’m posting this partly in response to DaveC’s request for information about collet closers, partly because these are fairly rare and may be of general interest, and partly to ask for suggestions on reconditioning my collet closer. My 1943 round dial 10EE is equipped with (what I believe to be)...

www.practicalmachinist.com

 

[skydvrbob]

Got it. It was just stuck. Thanks for the help.