Good news that you got it home safely.
Are you familiar with cutter sharpening?
Tilt fixtures are handy but constantly changing the angle can be a big waste of time. It is not uncommon to roll the tool a sufficient amount to get clearance. often you want a primary and secondary to raise and lower the tooth rest finger is much quicker than changing a work head angle.
Another clearance angle practice is to angle the cup wheel to the wheel edge towards the tool gives the angle at some point of height so to raise and lower the wheel head can give primary and secondary clearance angles with just a crank of the up/down handwheel.
You might make a few end-angle gauges to hold to your wheel for eyeball reference when holding against your wheel edge.
A good tooth rest finger is desirable..look at the Cincinnati manual for design. (free download)
Another needed finger is one that is attached to your wheel head in front of the wheel, with this you slide the cutter tooth across the running wheel.
It is common that the wheel pressure will push the tooth face enough to change to tool position, so a finger that has a raised step to go over/past thr=e too OD can stabilize the finger spot on the tooth face.
You might make (weldment)a standing V block, Just a V block on a post that can be set on your TC grinder table.
With this, you can hold straight shank mill cutter arbors and various bushings for tool holding. You might even make it with a bore to hold an out-end center, running end sharpening through a bushing with the out-end on a center is often the most accurate method and is a faster setup than holding tools in collets. This device even makes a good drill sharpener with a facet end grind (flat] and then you hand roll the heal for the roll under the straight land at 12*..the out end (tail) just on a 90* bump.
For face mill face you just hold a parallel to eyeball the slight face dish rather than plate checking the cutter.
You want to choose a tool to sharpen so to get least one sharpening setup down pat.
I like to circle mark my diamond cup wheels for grit, I put one circle on the 120, two on the 220 and 3 on the 320, That way you know at a glance what wheel is on the machine. You can run up to 320 dry.. (X) a 500gt dry may fracture some grades of carbide.
All wheels should have a mount-up line so gravity will make them mount the same with each remounting.
for a better finish, one can dress the OD and ID of a cup wheel even though you are not going to grind with that area.
Good to bench grinder try to snag away any steel you might run into with a diamond wheel. Steed is hard on diamond wheels ant the heat can put stress in the steel so to cause carbide to crack when the tool is used.
Cutter and saw teeth are often manufactured off a little (error) so fingering teeth can be off a little. The most accurate cutter is one that is circle ground, and then each tooth brought(ground) to witness land and the just wiped to sharp. a good way is to get the land to as fine as you can (the target) and then pull another .0005 to .002 past that.
A sharpening wheel is best traveling to the edge to avoid carbide chipping or steel burr. but that can be tricky because you may pull the tool away from the finger and so snag the tooth.
Spin /circle grinding you bump (come into the heal first. with the wheel rotating into (toward) the cutting edge.