Largest Manufacturing Technology Community on the Web
Stay Connected:
Rivett 1020S Restoration
- Thread starter jreiland
- Start date
- Replies 50
- Views 4,261
Jon
Its painful cleaning and painting in there but will be satisfying and somewhat representative of the guy doing the job. It wont make it run better but paint never does. Do it to honor all of Carls hard work, making your assembly easier. I cant feel a little bad for Carl not getting the satisfaction of finishing and using his lathe. It's evident that he wanted a nice finished job.
Your progress is looking good.
zamboni2354
Cast Iron
- Joined
- May 26, 2008
- Location
- Long Beach, CA.
I agree [emoji1303] plus no better time than now with it all apart!
Jeff
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Jeff
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
tailstock4
Aluminum
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2013
- Location
- Oklahoma, USA
I always repaint the insides of my machines. Once I have it down to no moving parts left, I usually spray degreaser on them and pressure wash which helps ensure good adhesion when you’re ready to prime. A paint job done well does show attention to detail and a willingness to put in the work.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Good idea. You'll want to verify alignment, vibration NOT, etc.
I would not worry overmuch about a "dummy load". The engineering was done a long time ago. If it is all back together 'as-built" it is going to JFW.
I would:
- wrap and tie-wrap back the three 'final drive' belts so they cannot touch anything moving.
- run it through the ranges, unloaded, and for long enough to expose any misalignment, loose keys, or such.
AFAICS, a couple of temprary extension cable/harnesses to 'remote' the controls is all you'd need to fab?
2CW
zamboni2354
Cast Iron
- Joined
- May 26, 2008
- Location
- Long Beach, CA.
Looking great [emoji1303] Jon!!
My speed adjust motor is 110v, is yours? I haven't tore into my lathe yet, so I'm not sure if there are limit switches that stop the motor or not. Seems like it wouldn't be too difficult to hook 3phase up to the main motor so that it's spinning the reeves drive and use 1q0v to test the speed adjust through it's ranges.
Jeff
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
My speed adjust motor is 110v, is yours? I haven't tore into my lathe yet, so I'm not sure if there are limit switches that stop the motor or not. Seems like it wouldn't be too difficult to hook 3phase up to the main motor so that it's spinning the reeves drive and use 1q0v to test the speed adjust through it's ranges.
Jeff
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Jeff,
It is 110v, good question on the limit switches. The drawing I have don't show much information about the speed change mechanism. There are some limit switches in the boxes and your comment made me think they could be for this. Thanks for that! The thought of firing this up on the bench makes me nervous, I don't have 3ph power setup yet anyhow.... When you dig into yours could you post pics of how the gear train under the motor plate is setup?
jon
Would I need to wire through the panel or could I do a temp wiring of the motor somehow?
tailstock4
Aluminum
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2013
- Location
- Oklahoma, USA
I did run my drive while it was out of the machine. Thermite’s idea for checking for vibration is a good one. I did find vibration in my variable drive pulleys. A couple of them were slightly warped and required re-machining and rebalancing.
Another thing to check is your two drive clutches and their engagement. Are they adjusted right? Also check the carrier bearing on the end of the motor where it adjusts the pulley. On mine, when I ran it in this test, it would get pretty warm, and I had to replace it.
Another one to check is the brake - its clearances, its effectiveness, and is it quiet with no chatter.
The last one would be the limit switches. I have the single belt, 5hp drive in my machine so I don’t know how this differs from your two belt, 3hp drive. My limit switches were next to the little bodine motor inside the housing. They run on a gear and screw system, a little like a garage door. What’s important to check is that the drive can achieve minimum and maximum RPM. If you cannot achieve these, then you will have a hole in the RPM range between back gear and direct drive.
The way I hooked mine up was to pull the electrical box off the end (there are just a bunch of screws around the edge.) I pulled it and the conduit out as they needed to be cleaned and degreased anyway. Next, I pulled the controls by the headstock out of the casting and unwired them leaving them attached to the mounting plate. I put all this on a cart and rolled it over to the drive. Then I hooked it all back up being careful that the headstock controls were on an insulated surface. This allows you to run the drive and check all the electrical components. Anything you can do while it is out of the machine is much easier to do than when it is in the machine.
