Rivett 1020S Spindle Brake with Foot Pedal

[tailstock4]

I’m posting some pictures of my latest project, a hydraulic spindle brake for the Rivett. As many know, this machine has a clutch for direct drive and back gear. When the machine is in direct drive, there can be a long coast down when returning to neutral with the drive still running. I thought the addition of a brake could improve this.

I’ve posted some pictures of the brake fabrication and installation. I decided to have the caliper mounting and adjusting system all on top of the jack shaft housing. This allows adjustment of belts without the need for realigning the brake. I also made two brackets. The bottom one is adjustable for toe in and out. The back of this bracket can pivot left or right. The top bracket slides on a milled channel to adjust length and position of the caliper on the disc. This allows the caliper to be easily removed and put back in the same position.



One of the first modifications I did was to extend the jack shaft with a 7/8” keyed shaft. This was to allow the hub for the brake disc. I used a 7.5” brake disc with a single piston caliper. So far this seems to be more than adequate with a 6” steel chuck up to 3,500 rpm. It will stop the spindle pretty much instantly at any speed but also seems to have the ability to feather the braking. This is true even when stopping the entire drive including the motor and Reeves drive.

I’m not through with the installation yet. I still have some electrical modifications to make. I want to be able to have a switch so that the brake when activated and clutch still engaged will brake the entire drive and kill the motor. I also want to be able to disable this function and have the brake work with the clutch in neutral and not kill the drive.

I also am going to add a limit switch so that when the pedal is pressed it will enable the kill function. I also plan to leave the Dings motor brake and have a switch to turn this on and off for use with the ELSR. I also made some engagement knobs on the back of the Dings brake that mechanically disengage the brake putting it in an open position. All this should allow me to use any of the brakes in combination or individually.

The hardest part of this so far has been deciding what to use in terms of hardware and of course where to put it. So far I’m pleased but also would enjoy hearing any suggestions or ideas you may have.

 

[tailstock4]

Here are pictures of...

Disengaged return stop


The maximum depressed stop

 

[tailstock4]

I have yet to decide on where to put the limit switch or exactly how I will incorporate a switch and light. I want the light to be on when the drive kill is enabled. I plan on putting the switches and lights in the current coolant pump switch panel. Here is a picture of that panel.



Here is a picture of a clutch extension handle that I been experimenting with and so far like. I got tired of bending down for the original handle.

 

[akjeff]

Looking good! To activate the motor shut off, you could add a brake light switch to the master cylinder. They replace the banjo bolt, and when hydraulic pressure is sensed, closes a contact.

 

[akjeff]

Here's an example.

https://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Banjo-Built-Pressure-Switch/dp/B000GTV0RC

 

[Chips Everywhere]

I’m posting some pictures of my latest project, a hydraulic spindle brake for the Rivett. As many know, this machine has a clutch for direct drive and back gear. When the machine is in direct drive, there can be a long coast down when returning to neutral with the drive still running. I thought the addition of a brake could improve this.

I’ve posted some pictures of the brake fabrication and installation. I decided to have the caliper mounting and adjusting system all on top of the jack shaft housing. This allows adjustment of belts without the need for realigning the brake. I also made two brackets. The bottom one is adjustable for toe in and out. The back of this bracket can pivot left or right. The top bracket slides on a milled channel to adjust length and position of the caliper on the disc. This allows the caliper to be easily removed and put back in the same position.

View attachment 390577 View attachment 390576 View attachment 390575

One of the first modifications I did was to extend the jack shaft with a 7/8” keyed shaft. This was to allow the hub for the brake disc. I used a 7.5” brake disc with a single piston caliper. So far this seems to be more than adequate with a 6” steel chuck up to 3,500 rpm. It will stop the spindle pretty much instantly at any speed but also seems to have the ability to feather the braking. This is true even when stopping the entire drive including the motor and Reeves drive.

I’m not through with the installation yet. I still have some electrical modifications to make. I want to be able to have a switch so that the brake when activated and clutch still engaged will brake the entire drive and kill the motor. I also want to be able to disable this function and have the brake work with the clutch in neutral and not kill the drive.

I also am going to add a limit switch so that when the pedal is pressed it will enable the kill function. I also plan to leave the Dings motor brake and have a switch to turn this on and off for use with the ELSR. I also made some engagement knobs on the back of the Dings brake that mechanically disengage the brake putting it in an open position. All this should allow me to use any of the brakes in combination or individually.

The hardest part of this so far has been deciding what to use in terms of hardware and of course where to put it. So far I’m pleased but also would enjoy hearing any suggestions or ideas you may have.

View attachment 390578 View attachment 390579 View attachment 390580 View attachment 390581 View attachment 390584 View attachment 390582

Doing the same mod, but on my HLVH, using the existing brake system to press the master cylinder. Nice job, looks clean

 

[tailstock4]

Doing the same mod, but on my HLVH, using the existing brake system to press the master cylinder. Nice job, looks clean

Thanks. Just curious… Was your existing brake system electrical? Are you planning on adding a foot pedal?

 

[tailstock4]

Looking good! To activate the motor shut off, you could add a brake light switch to the master cylinder. They replace the banjo bolt, and when hydraulic pressure is sensed, closes a contact.View attachment 390595

That would eliminate the need for a mechanical interaction, but since I've already ordered a limit switch, I may give it a try. We'll see.

 

[tailstock4]

I thought I’d add a couple pictures of a modification to the clutch handle that I’ve been working on. I’ve added a center lock-out or gate to keep from accidentally shifting the clutch into gear. There is enough flex in the linkage that when the operator pulls the clutch handle out, it disengages the little taper pin. When the clutch is returned to neutral, there is enough spring to snap it into place on its own. I really like it so far. This and the brake seem to add to the user friendliness of this machine.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

Thanks. Just curious… Was your existing brake system electrical? Are you planning on adding a foot pedal?

Yes, the stock one is electrical. When you switch the lever from "Forward" to "Brake" to stop the spindle, a cork shoe engages with a "drum" that's mounted to the spindle motor at the base, this slows the spindle down. It works great for collets and small work, but if you have a 5 or 6" chuck. it takes a while to slow it down. This is a picture of the web to give you an idea.

 

[FireWhat]

I didn't realize that Rivett still makes the 1020s. YOUR MACHINE IS SO CLEAN! Did you have to re-seal your selector knobs on the front of your gear boxes and the shaft seals on the input/output shafts? If so how did you do it? My 1020s has hemoragic oil disease, slowly leaking out of every orifice.

 

[tailstock4]

I didn't realize that Rivett still makes the 1020s. YOUR MACHINE IS SO CLEAN! Did you have to re-seal your selector knobs on the front of your gear boxes and the shaft seals on the input/output shafts? If so how did you do it? My 1020s has hemoragic oil disease, slowly leaking out of every orifice.

On my machine I disassembled everything. I replaced most of the bearings in the machine and all of the seals and o-rings. I also made new gaskets where needed and sealed them with Hylomar. It took a bit of work and attention to detail, but it is possible to stop the leaks. However, don’t let anyone tell you that it is just a leak. Leaks can be difficult to find and quite a bit of disassembly and work to fix sometimes. Good luck with yours.

 

[m-lud]

On my machine I disassembled everything. I replaced most of the bearings in the machine and all of the seals and o-rings. I also made new gaskets where needed and sealed them with Hylomar. It took a bit of work and attention to detail, but it is possible to stop the leaks. However, don’t let anyone tell you that it is just a leak. Leaks can be difficult to find and quite a bit of disassembly and work to fix sometimes. Good luck with yours.

I cut/ground the flange off of a seal so it was flat and could be put in the bearing pocket behind the bearing.
I used a washer larger diameter than the rubber lip to space the bearing out just enough so the bearing didn't smash or distort the rubber lip.
The bearing was held out about an eight inch but still deep in its pocket.
I put silicone on the flat of the seal on assembly. It relied the rubber lip to center the seal until the silicone was dry. Not ideal but it worked.
It was a gearbox on an old production folding machine that still ran 24x5 days weekly. It was still working when I left the company
If I would have had access to a lathe at the time I could have made the seal diameters and spacer washer fit the bore snug. The seal was held by silicone and bearing pressure but never spun. You can fit one better with your lathe.
It leaked bad until it got my redneck fix.
A lot can also be done with an o ring against a bearing race.
The boss didn't care how it was fixed at the time as long as it was making money.

Old war story

 

[tailstock4]

I cut/ground the flange off of a seal so it was flat and could be put in the bearing pocket behind the bearing.
I used a washer larger diameter than the rubber lip to space the bearing out just enough so the bearing didn't smash or distort the rubber lip.
The bearing was held out about an eight inch but still deep in its pocket.
I put silicone on the flat of the seal on assembly. It relied the rubber lip to center the seal until the silicone was dry. Not ideal but it worked.
It was a gearbox on an old production folding machine that still ran 24x5 days weekly. It was still working when I left the company
If I would have had access to a lathe at the time I could have made the seal diameters and spacer washer fit the bore snug. The seal was held by silicone and bearing pressure but never spun. You can fit one better with your lathe.
It leaked bad until it got my redneck fix.
A lot can also be done with an o ring against a bearing race.
The boss didn't care how it was fixed at the time as long as it was making money.

Old war story

Sounds like good improvising skills. My background is power plants - boilers, gear boxes and bearings. I was fortunate to work around some really good welders, mechanics and riggers. They all had various tricks for fixing a leak or getting a piece of equipment to the next overhaul or downtime. About the only place this never happened was with steam. With a pressure of 2,800 psi and 1,000 degrees, there was little room for experimenting. I had seen a couple times of what that could do when things went wrong.

 

[tailstock4]

I thought I’d post a few more pictures of the finish of this project. I made a new electrical panel and added a limit switch which allows the brake to be used in three different modes: foot brake only, foot brake and kills the drive, and motor brake only or with any combination.

Instead of paint, I chose to use black oxide treatment on the foot treadle. I don’t know if it will be more durable than paint, but it will be easier to redo.

One side benefit of the brake is that it allows me to use my Hardinge Sjogren 5c speed chuck without engaging the back gears to provide resistance for tightening. Now just a light touch on the brake will hold it. I believe it works better than a hand wheel or a spindle lock, quicker and safer.

If anyone is interested, I can provide more particulars.