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rubber flat belts on camelback?

We use a lot of Habasit belting. So when my leather belt on my #2 Leblond T&C stretched that's what I replaced it with , no more stretch and drives better.

We have our own heaters and the cutters we use cut 1" long vee notches so we don't have to skive them.

They also make nylon lacing like Clippard metal lacing which we use on a few machines.We also have a belt lacing machine but I haven't had to use the metal lacing for quite a few years.
 
Cheapskate solution:

My mechanic gave me a pile of used automotive timing belts for free. Spliced-- drilled small holes in ends and sewed with nylon fishing line. Has been running my 1915 21" Superior camelback for years now. Narrow belts, but work just fine with a homemade belt tensioner.
 
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The rubberized belt with canvas type core is the best.... less slip, and much less stretch if someone leaves the tension on overnight.
 
I use bailer belting, and slit it to width. Tractor supply was selling it for .50 a foot on clearance. I stitch it with linen thread, no sound, does not slip or wear in my use.
Joe


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This is what I used, except I skived the edges and alligator clipped it together, the clips are flush with the surface of the belt and it is totally quiet.
 
Where I worked quite some time ago we purchase one piece "rubber" flat belt from kaman industrial technologies. Not sure what other type they had but the type we got were laminated yellow on inside and green outside. The were orderd to length so stitching was not needed. On our machinery there was no adjustment so belts were stretched onto the pulleys and remain tight.
 
I'm happy with my super-grip flat belting from McM.

Thanks, Clap. I ordered the 3" belt from McMaster. Haven't decided yet how to fasten it or even to decide how long to cut it. The measurement around the pulleys is 11' 4-1/4". I know I should cut it a bit short so it will have to stretch a bit to go around the sheaves, but how much?

I think I'm going to try cutting a baler belt for my 2" belt. I have a friend who has made belts and sold them in the Pike Place Market in Seattle ever since the 1960s. He knows a thing or two about cutting leather straps. He says the Tandy strap cutter works just fine for him. So I'm going to pick one of those up today. I'm also going to pick up one of their skiving tools. I still have the nasty old leather drive belt that came with the machine. I'm thinking about cutting out 1" strap to make my feed belt from. Since that belt is too thick, I'll try skiving it thinner. If that works, fine. If not, maybe a piece of the leftover baler belt will work.

metalmagpie
 
Thanks, Clap. I ordered the 3" belt from McMaster. Haven't decided yet how to fasten it or even to decide how long to cut it. The measurement around the pulleys is 11' 4-1/4". I know I should cut it a bit short so it will have to stretch a bit to go around the sheaves, but how much?

I think I'm going to try cutting a baler belt for my 2" belt. I have a friend who has made belts and sold them in the Pike Place Market in Seattle ever since the 1960s. He knows a thing or two about cutting leather straps. He says the Tandy strap cutter works just fine for him. So I'm going to pick one of those up today. I'm also going to pick up one of their skiving tools. I still have the nasty old leather drive belt that came with the machine. I'm thinking about cutting out 1" strap to make my feed belt from. Since that belt is too thick, I'll try skiving it thinner. If that works, fine. If not, maybe a piece of the leftover baler belt will work.

metalmagpie


Probably a rule of thumb some oldtimer or old book knows. At least 3/4". It's gonna stretch, so be prepared to shorten it on about day 2.
 








 
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