Rusted rotary table - trying to restore

[CBudz]

So I found a routary table tucked away in my basement, the 2 lateral dials operated smooth but the bottom is rusted solid. Trying not to destroy or damage it, I've only soaked it in some PB. I do have some evaporust Im going to dunk it in but I really have no experience. It does look like there's a pin I can punch out but I don't know if that separate the worm drive from the dial shaft.

Any thoughts on how to proceed?

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[DDoug]

Try the electrolysis forums.

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

I have found it is better to soak in evaporust prior to applying penetrants, the evaporust does not work thru oil. Your table appears far better than mine which went thru a fire then sat exposed to the weather for an unknown amount of time, not sure it is salvageable, but I will try.

 

[jim rozen]

This is really not bad at all. A perfect candidate for electrolytic de-rusting.

Say if you don't know how to do this.

 

[Bill D]

edta, search here about it

 

[EPAIII]

I think you omitted the link.

I also have a RT with rust, but not as bad as the one in the picture. I was hoping that oil and Scotch brite would do the job.

edtm, search here about it

 

[Phil in Montana]

Use oil and scotch brite, but chuck the table up in the lathe and rotate for polishing...Phil

 

[NC Rick]

I suggest a thorough degrease, maybe pressure wash and then soak it for a day totally immersed in Evaporust. After that (save your evaporust!) reassess what you have. The rust will be gone but pitting and other problems will remain. I

 

[Bill D]

EDTA will cost about 1/20 the price of evaporust and for totally submerged work be as good. And EDTA is safe enough to eat. Which is recommended by some health food types. You do not need expensive food grade for industrial use.
Bill D

 

[jim rozen]

Sodium carbonate (washing soda from the store), a plastic bin, and a battery charger.

 

[gregoryd]

I used Kano labs Exrust - but its $50 a gallon plus shipping. Read the MSDS and saw that its mainly phosporic acid and switched to that for $40 a gallon from Amazon delivered at a higher concentration. Been using to clear rust off a 1938 pontiac I am restoring. Picture is the before and after picture of the lower a-arms.

To make my solution last longer I take off whatever rust I can quickly with the wire wheel. When you wash with water you do get some flash rust - so for small parts I rinse in HOT water and then help them dry with the propane torch - just a few seconds. Most stuff goes to the fine blast cabinet next anyways.

For your application - I'd wash off the penetrate as others have mentioned - then dunk in the acid for a couple of days - then pull apart.

**** make sure you know what metals you have - I believe aluminum and other zinc and pot metal will erode away.