The armature has more commutator bars than slots, so it has some form of multiplex winding, which is used to give more smaller increments to torque. If convenient, see if the brushes are exactly 180 degrees apart or shifted half of one commutator bar from each other. That is the difference between taking steps with one foot at a time instead of jumping with both together. One more way to make a smooth running motor.
I see the stator is varnished on the outside, and the end bells still have grey paint.
Someone has been inside this motor before, maybe just dunked the stator
in varnish, maybe more.
That someone gets my award for being a total asshat. This is the cooling fan rotor. Note the ding on the upper right, and one the bottom there is a fairly good bend. Someone obviously pried the back end off by prying against this fan rotor. It is about 3/8" out of true. Not sure how I'm going to fix that but I'm sure that isn't helping the motor's balance.
Bill have you ever worked on a dc motor or rewound one?? What you just wrote is from the outer-limits...Phil
Obviously I need to buy more tools to have the things to fix them, right?You sure seem to break a lot of stuff lately.
Hey, if it was easy, it wouldn't need you to fix it.
Not sure on the wiring, I'd have to lay an eyeball on it. But the gear, you could have a ring gear made. Turn the teeth down on current gear. Then press ring gear on.
What's the mating gear look like ?
I think I would first see what a local shop would charge to redo those leads and maybe re-varnish the coils while they're in there. Then you'll basically have a new motor.
Just located a couple of new GE 5 HP KinaMatics... plus a few more, used.
Could be cheaper than motor shop? Surely less cost than a stout VFD + AC motor would run?