SB9 Taper Attachment Installation

[sceason]

Hi Guys,
I buddy of mine sold me his old plain taper attachment when he upgraded to a 10K which also came with a taper attachment, and I'm gonna install it on my 1948 9" model A. I have some questions about properly installing this attachment though. I read Steve Wells SBL factory install directions (EP-133), but can't quite grasp how they indicated the attachment to ensure parallelism, etc. Can anyone shed any light on how to properly install a plain taper attachmn't? My saddle came pre-drilled with the tapped holes 3 1/2" apart to mount this taper attachmn't but isn't drilled for the guide pins. The mounting surface appears to have been properly milled (surfaced) and drilled/tapped at the factory but since it's painted, I can't say with 100% confidence that it's milled completely paralley to the ways, but think it is, esp. since it was drilled/tapped and I am supposedly only this machine's 2nd owner. The rest of the machine is pretty much prestine, though only a bench-top model. I have it mounted to a brake lathe table.

Any help is much appreciated!

Stephen

 

[gtermini]

My SB9A came with a taper attachment. If you need any pictures or descriptions of how it is on there, I can try my best. I did not install it myself, but it seems to be on the machine properly.

Good luck, Greyson

 

[10KPete]

Well, I can't give you specific instructions but I know that I've seen them somewhere in a link on this site. Somewhere.

But I can tell you this: The main thing is to have the 'bottom' part of the taper attachment, the part you don't move to an angle, parallel to the bedways vertically and horizontally. That's what all the voodoo is about; getting that part of the attachment aligned so the part that is bolted to the carriage will slide along without creating a bind anywhere.

If I find that link I'll post it.

Pete

 

[sceason]

Thanks Pete! If you can find that reference, I'd be grateful. I finally removed it this afternoon because if I'm gonna install it, then I want it right, or not at all. I believe SB requires the atachment to be within 0.0005" to work right and not bind-up.

Anyone else any better at how one would go about indicating the various points to ensure an accurate install?

Steve

 

[10KPete]

Steve,

Sent you an email.

Pete

 

[sceason]

Pete, I didn't get an e-mail that I can find. Try again to [email protected]. Stephen

 

[Wallpaperman]

sceason check your email I have a PDF file with the info you are looking for
cliff(SC)

 

[sceason]

My PC at home got fried by a lightening strike, and poof, I'm out of the ball game. If anyone expected any replies from me, I apologize for not being able to respond but I can only get access to the internet sporadically.

I still need more help w/ this taper attachment though as it gathers dust in the shop. Thanks:

 

[Dennis Turk]

Taper attachment instalation

I just competed the instalation of a taper on a late model 9 workshop lathe.

As to your question here is how I did it.

After I bolted the mount bracket casting to the back of the saddle I then set up the slide bar in the dovetails and adjusted the gib to give a fair amount of drag as it slide from one end to the other. I wonted to make sure the dove tails on these two parts were working correctly.

After I was satisfied that these two parts were working correctly I then setup a magnetic indicator base on the bed of the lathe. I used the flat way the tail stock slides on and I had the indicator mount sitting right in front of the spindle. I extended the arm with a .0005 indicator attached so it rested on the sliding taper bar. I then moved the saddle back and forth noting the change in the indicator. As needed I moved the mount casting on the back of the saddle so the indicator read .000 at both ends of the bar. I was reading about .002 high in the middle but that I as not worried about I only wonted the average of the bar to be parallel to the bed.

Now after I had this were I felt it should be I installed the taper bar that the slide bar. I bolted it down at both ends and then re-tested the movement of the bar under the indicator again by moving the saddle back and forth so I could get a reading over the full length of the taper bar. Before I started the installation I had used the surface grinder at my work to just kiss off both of these long bars so I knew they were flat and parallel. After I was satisfied that I had the mount aligned so the sliding bar and the taper bar were running parallel to the bed I removed them from the mount. Before my last reading with the indicator I really tightened down the mounting bolts on the back of the saddle so things would not move.

After I removed the sliding bar and the taper bar from the taper mount casting I drilled the two dowel pin holes and then reamed them for a snug sliding fit of a 1/4 inch dowel pin. After I took the mount off cleaned and painted it I then re-installed it on the saddle then installed the sliding bar and the taper bar and checked again with the indicator. I was reading again 000 at each end and maybe .001 high in the middle. I am confident that this taper attachment has now been installed as correctly as a home shop guy can. The last thing I did was check the end clamp bracket to see if it was in alignment with the stud that sticks out from the sliding bar and it slid in the babbit filled casting very nicely.

I then installed the cross slide and the taper sliding block. After I adjusted the gib screws on the follower block it was time to check to see if the zero marks on the taper bar were correct.

I set the taper bar on the zero mark on the slide bar. I then locked the handle so the cross side was now solid to the sliding follower block. I removed the screw that secures the cross side nut. I then setup an indicator with the magnetic base resting on one of the saddle wings. I then set the indicator pointer so it was resting on the end of the compound casting. Now I locked down the taper bed clamp. Now I moved the saddle back and forth through the full range of the taper bar travel. Again noting what the indicator was reading. This time I had about .005 of movement of the cross side so now I know the taper bar witness marks are off just a little. By playing with the taper bar I was able to get the indicator to read zero movement. When I looked at the witness mark on the taper bar I was off less than a line width on the scale.

So that is how I did it right or wrong it works.

Turk

 

[Dennis Turk]

Here is a picture of how to indicate in a taper bar.

Turk

 

[10KPete]

Steve,

I sent my email again. If it makes sense to you, you might want to post it here.

Pete

 

[MichaelP]

Pete and Walpaperman,

Could you please forward the same info to my e-mail address?

Thank you in advance!

 

[10KPete]

MichaelP,

Information sent!

Pete

 

[WAS Jr]

Taper alignment-question for for Turk

I have checked the alignment of my taper on my 10K, it tips about .012 or so. I thought about it and decided I was going to do it similar to the way Turk described this winter as a winter project. My taper attachment seems to work ok and I haven't used it much, so I don't mind putting it off for a while. My question for Dennis is: did you drill and ream with the bracket on the bed of the lathe, or did you take it off and do it on a mill or drill press? I want to do it on the machine and I was thinking of rigging up some sort of alignment bracket to make sure the drilling and reaming is straight. Is this necessary? Did you just align it by eye and drill and ream. My attachment is original to the machine but it the lathe has been reground/rebuilt a couple of times, and the last time is the only one that I know was done right. Thanks and best wishes to all, Bill S

 

[WAS Jr]

Bump. Turk? Anyone?