Well, I finally got my Sag 12!
I won the online auction for this Graziano Sag 12 on Wed. Nov. 11th......<snipped>
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(Reached pics limit - story cont'd next post)
Appreciate your response on that funky imposter P&W. I haunt 'the sites' for my toolroom lathe. It'll turn up Cazenueve, Graziano, Monarch, HES, Rivett maybe...not to mention un-spellable German or Swiss brands, before I buy a shrinking ray and shoot an Axelson, Dean Smith & Grace etc.
I participate in a few related sites, some where chinisium is prevalent. It's a job, elevating the lowly masses. But one of my favored/ best received posts concern DIY rigging. A giant Moak 36" bandsaw? Yup. A lower but wider 36" DoAll? Piece of cake.
Niagara gap shear? FormAll sheet metal brake? Bridgeport clones? Cincy ML? Rambaudi M3 40 taper? Punch Presses? Mohawk Drill grinder? K&T facemill grinder? Yes, Yes and plenty more.
Generally;
Knowing the machine configuration, I bring wood blocking along to lower mill knees on, keep inertia of that lead screw. Turn the head upside down. Run Y back close to column against a block, sometimes block up space between head and table. Lathes usually like carriage and tailstock parked far right, take off big chucks, and don't sling underneath without making sure the sling is not binding lead/ feed/ clutch rods...
But cranes or forklift booms aren't always available....
I [not good at recruiting] start with short pinch bars, little bites until high enough for rollers. Some of us refer to them as Egyptian rolling. Skates are better but way more height needed. One end up, it gets bandsawn aluminum wedges tapped in, so I can go work the other end. Aluminum and the sawn faces have just right amount of skid free grip, once floor is swept up, aiding rollers as well. But my no-longer secret is choice of rollers. If the base is wide and hollow, I use foosball table rods; no shit. The chrome finish even helps! I push or lever-hoist the load along, moving the rods forward as they exit. As I approach tilt bed, single axle 3500 lb trailer, I go to 1.0" rod, usually I can get front to see-saw on one foosball rod and kick the first one-incher underneath.
Switch from lever hoist; to DIY receiver mount 2-speed boat trailer winch with 30' of 3" webbing and 3/8" slip hook. Machines differ, so might hook and chain, endless sling, wrap the winch leader......whatever it takes to be secure and pull from way down l-o-w.
Vehicle in neutral, wheels rubber chocked, brake set, trailer chocked too. Spiffy part, as machine enters, the winch gives good feel and no backslide of the weight. Stretched web friendlier than chain or wire rope. No level wind issue, birdnest, twisting, or tumbling when chain piles up in the spool. Or handful of parted wire strands.......DAMHIKT.
Some occasions, like over dirt have another trick. Peeler cores; those 4" diameter centers of logs after skinning exterior for plywood. They don't care! Gravel, dirt, pebbles, snow DAMHIKTE. Not perfect straight or round but with 4-5 under a good amount of weight they still roll EASY! It's like the irregularities are a benefit. Still using first set of 8 logs. Cut three of them 5' long one time, shortened pieces make corners easier. I'd make a joke about spoilers and sway bars here.
An improvement lately, thick aluminum "threshold" that fix transition from ground plane over rear angle iron of trailer bed. They have a large radius, I sectioned heavy wall tubing so leading edge was not thin/ fragile and upper chord just higher then angle iron. I screwed some spare webbing to bottom and the end goes under angle iron, any weight on trailer holds them from sliding, then real secure as first roller climbs aboard.
Spiffy #2. I measure how long the load is and eyeball center of the weight, I watch that as it approaches point over axle when the tilt starts to tip up. The winch makes it very progressive. I manipulate a tongue jack [on trailer bed] and winch so there is no surprise descent. Back off trailer jack and winch forward for tongue weight watching bumper height and tires.
Then ratchet strap until the load looks tarped, lol. I use scrap carpet for dunnage on sharp edges, and webbed tube where straps rub each other.
And contrary to normal, it
takes longer to do then write an accurate description. NYCGHIKT.