Sheldon Vernon #0 Horizontal Mill Questions

[18tillidie]

anyone have any experience with these things?

I just picked up a Sheldon Vernon #0 Horizontal Mill fitted with a Rusnok Vertical Mill Head…

It needs a little TLC but seems in reasonable shape. Previous owner never used it as a horizontal mill, so my immediate focus is on the table for now, so I can get the vertical mill operating smoothly, then I’ll attack the horizontal workings. It’s a nice compact unit, and fine for most of my tasks…

I just pulled the table apart… there’s a ton of lash in the table traverse (absolutely none in the other two axis).

The zero wheel is really stiff (it’s almost frozen on one of the other axis)… but I can’t figure out how to get the handle, zero wheel and bearings apart… I don’t want to try force just yet, as I’m sure there’s a trick to it!!!

I ordered the manual for it, but it hasn’t arrived yet.

Any advice from those more wise and knowledgeable???

Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to get a new acme nut made? It’s brass, with about a 5/8 pin on the bottom that is punched to keep it in place. (A general machine shop or is there anyone that specializes in these things?)

 

[18tillidie]

Some photos…

 

[Homebrewblob]

I would buy some cheap import ball screws and mod it, but that me.

The brass nut is trivial for a skilled machinist.

That’s a coooooool mill

 

[Shaybuilder]

I had one of those years ago and it was pretty simple to work on. I would look at McMaster-Carr for a nut that would work, you may have to modify it a bit but it is a alternative to having to make one, I would also probably replace the lead screw while I was at it and had it apart.

 

[jhruska]

Look for a taper pin in the handle - red circle.

John

 

[18tillidie]

Awesome, thanks.
I found a machine shop just a couple of miles away that specializes in machine repairs and rebuilds… I‘KL drop by and see what options they suggest.

 

[18tillidie]

Thanks John, yep, I thought that might be the answer… it didn’t budge when I gave it a couple of light taps with a drift, but didn’t want to use a bigger hammer till I was sure! I could see that it was tapered.

The Rusnok vertical head is in great shape, once I get the table sorted, I can start looking ant the rest of the horizontal mill innards.

I ordered the manual for both, so I’ll be flying a little less blind once they arrive.

Appreciate the info!

Tim.

 

[Rudd]

I don't have one, I have two.
On the table nut, you can get a bronze acme nut from green bay mfg. Take your existing nut and drill out the threads plus some more. Turn down the purchased nut and sweat it in with soft solder. It won't let go.

Edit - I don't know what you do and don't know. Anneal the staked area of the nut. You should then be able to drive it out with a flat punch - use as big as you can, but it must be smaller than the hole in the cast iron.
To re-install - drive the nut back in, and re-stake. You'll need to get it straight.
I'm thinking the one I did surgery on had something different than the staking to hold the nut in.

 

[18tillidie]

Thanks for the detailed advice.

It aligning lugs cast on either end, so they will keep it straight.

I just sent the specs to BM Parts Tech for a quote to make a new one. They have them in stock for other machines, but they’d need to make this one to order.

Checking a couple of other options as well. Sweating a new insert seems like a practical option as well.

Cheers,

Tim.

 

[Limy Sami]

Thanks for the detailed advice.

It aligning lugs cast on either end, so they will keep it straight.

I just sent the specs to BM Parts Tech for a quote to make a new one. They have them in stock for other machines, but they’d need to make this one to order.

Checking a couple of other options as well. Sweating a new insert seems like a practical option as well.

Cheers,

Tim.

If you're new to machine tool spare parts, make sure you're sitting down when you open the quote ..hint, parts prices can be beyond