What's new
What's new

Shortening a Haimer Taster

Pete Deal

Stainless
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Location
Morgantown, WV
I have been working on getting my 4th axis setup on my Brother S1000. An issue I have is that my Haimer is a little too long. My whole 4th axis setup (Brother T200 rotary) is pretty high.

My Haimer probe is in a 3/4" endmill holder with about 2-1/4" gage length. This makes the whole assembly pretty long. I was looking around to see if there are any shorter 3/4" endmill holders for Bt30. Maritool has one that's 2" but that seems as short as I can find. I think the 3/4" BT30 holders are longer to avoid deforming the taper. I thought Haimer had probes with integral taper shanks but that doesn't seem to be the case. Thinking maybe cut the endmill holder off by an inch or so and locktite the probe in? I started to face the tool holder off but that'll be a project. Not sure how hard it is but I need to get a few more inserts to get it cut down this way. Can't remember the brand. Looks like Haimer makes a probe with a 12mm shank. But I don't see any short 12mm endmill holders either.

Anybody got any ideas?

Another thing working against me is that on the S1000 the rotary needs to set on an adapter plate. I'm thinking at some point I may drill and tap holes in the table to eliminate the adapter plate to help this situation. This will lower the 4th by 3/4". Not going to rush into this.
 

Pete Deal

Stainless
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Location
Morgantown, WV
I'm not sure you indicated which Haimer unit you're using. I have several of the Haimer 'Zero-Master' tasters and they're much smaller than the standard units.

3D-Sensor Zero Master for small machines - HAIMER

Stuart

Mine is the universal version. Yea that zero master is about .6" shorter. That would help. It says it has a .39" shank? I guess 10mm? That would be good too. Maritool has their shorty endmill holder (1.2" gage len) in 10mm. That would really shorten things up! I think about 1.6" shorter.
 

SeymourDumore

Diamond
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Location
CT
Mine is the universal version. Yea that zero master is about .6" shorter. That would help. It says it has a .39" shank? I guess 10mm? That would be good too. Maritool has their shorty endmill holder (1.2" gage len) in 10mm. That would really shorten things up! I think about 1.6" shorter.


Does Frank make a "blank" holder that you can machine?
Just thinking out loud, if you can find something like these: CAT 40 Blanks – Fitz Rite Products
but in BT30, you might be able to hack off some more length by cutting it off as short as possible and drill your own hole for the shank.
 

SeymourDumore

Diamond
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Location
CT
Here is one from Parlec:
Parlec - BT30

Friggin' thing appears huge, but that's nothing a good saw can't take care of easily....

You should be able to make it virtually flush with the bottom flange.
 

Pete Deal

Stainless
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Location
Morgantown, WV
Here is one from Parlec:
Parlec - BT30

Friggin' thing appears huge, but that's nothing a good saw can't take care of easily....

You should be able to make it virtually flush with the bottom flange.

The thing that I don't like about starting from a blank is that getting all the machine work concentric with the taper super precisely would be a difficult since I don't have a way to hold it on the taper while machining. I'd have to hold it on the flange. I know the Haimer is zeroed once installed but if the rotational axis of it isn't concentric with the taper it seems to me that as the plunger is depressed that inaccuracy will result. Maybe i'm over thinking. It seems like whacking the nose off an endmill holder would be more precise.
 

Peroni

Cast Iron
Joined
May 18, 2007
Location
Yadkinville, NC
The thing that I don't like about starting from a blank is that getting all the machine work concentric with the taper super precisely would be a difficult since I don't have a way to hold it on the taper while machining. I'd have to hold it on the flange. I know the Haimer is zeroed once installed but if the rotational axis of it isn't concentric with the taper it seems to me that as the plunger is depressed that inaccuracy will result. Maybe i'm over thinking. It seems like whacking the nose off an endmill holder would be more precise.

Bore soft jaws and hold on the vee flange. You're going to center up the probe tip in the spindle anyway so your mount doesn't need to be 100% concentric (within reason.)
 

CarbideBob

Diamond
Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Location
Flushing/Flint, Michigan
The thing that I don't like about starting from a blank is that getting all the machine work concentric with the taper super precisely would be a difficult since I don't have a way to hold it on the taper while machining. I'd have to hold it on the flange. I know the Haimer is zeroed once installed but if the rotational axis of it isn't concentric with the taper it seems to me that as the plunger is depressed that inaccuracy will result. Maybe i'm over thinking. It seems like whacking the nose off an endmill holder would be more precise.

No way to hold it by the taper. How about the Brother S1000?
Cut off, rough bore in the lathe leaving some stock.
Put a boring bar in vee blocks or something standing up on the mill's table. Finish bore nice and true to your spindle.
Kind of like an inverted VTL. Long ago there was a thread here on how to recut your spindle taper doing the same thing.
Whacking the nose off an endmill holder does sound easier and cheaper if the ground hole deep enough.
Bob
 

plastikdreams

Diamond
Joined
May 31, 2011
Location
upstate nj
No way to hold it by the taper. How about the Brother S1000?
Cut off, rough bore in the lathe leaving some stock.
Put a boring bar in vee blocks or something standing up on the mill's table. Finish bore nice and true to your spindle.
Kind of like an inverted VTL. Long ago there was a thread here on how to recut your spindle taper doing the same thing.
Whacking the nose off an endmill holder does sound easier and cheaper if the ground hole deep enough.
Bob

Thats an idea, people have been doing that sort of stuff in Bridgeports for ages.
 

gregormarwick

Diamond
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Location
Aberdeen, UK
Haimer have multiple off the shelf options for short assemblies. Every Haimer model except for the digital has a BT30 dedicated holder option which massively reduces the assembled length.

Why reinvent the wheel?
 

Pete Deal

Stainless
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Location
Morgantown, WV
Haimer have multiple off the shelf options for short assemblies. Every Haimer model except for the digital has a BT30 dedicated holder option which massively reduces the assembled length.

Why reinvent the wheel?

Well, initially I didn't see some of the options. It's not as obvious on their web site. I have since download their catalog and I see they do have an integral shank model with BT30. It does seem like the combo of the model Stuart recommended and a super short endmill holder might be shorter by a tad. And cheaper. I think I saw that the price of the integral shank model at $650. In my world price is an issue. I do believe I will look first at whacking my tool holder. If that'll get me the length I need I'll start there.

Ok so why is it called a taster...

I don't know really. That's what the manufacturer calls it. They are German I think so maybe it's their translation?
 

plastikdreams

Diamond
Joined
May 31, 2011
Location
upstate nj
Well, initially I didn't see some of the options. It's not as obvious on their web site. I have since download their catalog and I see they do have an integral shank model with BT30. It does seem like the combo of the model Stuart recommended and a super short endmill holder might be shorter by a tad. And cheaper. I think I saw that the price of the integral shank model at $650. In my world price is an issue. I do believe I will look first at whacking my tool holder. If that'll get me the length I need I'll start there.



I don't know really. That's what the manufacturer calls it. They are German I think so maybe it's their translation?

Taster = button in german...
 

gregormarwick

Diamond
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Location
Aberdeen, UK
Well, initially I didn't see some of the options. It's not as obvious on their web site. I have since download their catalog and I see they do have an integral shank model with BT30. It does seem like the combo of the model Stuart recommended and a super short endmill holder might be shorter by a tad. And cheaper. I think I saw that the price of the integral shank model at $650. In my world price is an issue. I do believe I will look first at whacking my tool holder. If that'll get me the length I need I'll start there.

I understand the money aspect, and I also agree that the website does not make things very obvious.

That said, I am pretty sure that the "integral" shanks have their own part numbers and should be orderable on their own.

FWIW, I have a SK40 integral one, and it's really as short as it is possible to be, the standard haimer round shank adapter is removed and the top of the taster body inserts directly into the holder, so all that protrudes past the flange of the holder is a boss long enough to get the adjuster screws in.

That said, I have never shied away from butchering toolholders to suit a particular need, so if you can get it short enough while still using the standard round shank adapter then go for it.
 

Pete Deal

Stainless
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Location
Morgantown, WV
I was thinking the holder ought to be available separately. Couldn’t find a parts list but maybe I’ll call them if the tool holder modification doesn’t work out satisfactorily.
 








 
Top