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Sorta ISO Pantograph

snowman

Diamond
Joined
Jul 31, 2004
Location
Southeast Michigan
I am sorta looking for a pantograph, a gorton or a deckel or equivalent...smallish size. I say sorta because while I could use one about once a week, I'm not sure I have the space and if I bring home another piece of junk my wife is going to kill me. There's still stuff she doesn't know about that I try to titrate out as I think she can deal with it.

But, I know I would use it.

Anyone within 100 miles of Tecumseh/Dundee/Milan/Ann Arbor Michigan have one with collets and a good spindle as well as the ability to load it?

I passed on one about an hour away for $300 and I sorta regret it.

Prefer to trade tooling in payment.

I hope you all enjoyed my buyers plea. If nothing else, it made you laugh. I mean, lets be realistic. If you have the means to load a pantograph, you also likely shoved it in the scrap hopper decades ago.
 
Here is the pantograph you seek. Not sure you can get me to part with my Green D2, but feel free to try. Previous owner was Oldsmobile, who added the casters. I have the paperwork. I have added lots of type sets and extras, which cost me a lot more than $300.

Larry

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You don't by chance have cutters for a smaller green pantograph do you? It would probably suit my needs, it's just a tiny table top unit about half the size of what you have.
 
You don't by chance have cutters for a smaller green pantograph do you? It would probably suit my needs, it's just a tiny table top unit about half the size of what you have.
I have around ten of the small Green 106 engravers and plenty of fonts and cutters. Just a few vises and flat nameplate holders, though. The bases are tapped for strap clamps and other holding fixtures so they can do a lot of odd jobs. They are fine machines for small work, mostly made of cast iron where the lesser brands used aluminum.

Larry
 
I just missed a 3D Gorton for $325, but the owner didn't have a way of loading it. The last cheap thing I bought that I had to move egyptian style was a shed. It sorta reminded me why I bought a forklift, and made me never want to do it again.
 
The Green 106 cutters have a B&S no.1 taper with a small drawbar thread (forgot the thread spec). I have a bunch of Green HS and carbide tipped cutters, mostly reground. I also have little chucks that take the more common 1/8" straight shank solid carbide engraving cutters.

Most engravers do not do 1:1. The 1:2 and greater reduction helps get a good result, disguising any wiggle of the cutter. I do have a special New Hermes 1:1 conversion attachment, but I never bought whatever machine it is designed for. The 1:1 would mostly be used to make full size clones of type. If you have a steady hand, you could trace a line drawing/photo at 1:1 to make an engraving master of a logo or other design. Then the master would be used with reduction to engrave the design on the product.

Larry

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Oooh....want to sell one of the little chucks?

I've already got a Deckel single lip grinder, so being able to grind the cutter then chuck it up would be nice.
 
Oooh....want to sell one of the little chucks?

I've already got a Deckel single lip grinder, so being able to grind the cutter then chuck it up would be nice.
Chuck and one carbide cutter is $75 including shipping. You need a 5/16" and a 3/8" ignition wrench to operate. Lots of those 1/8" cutters on eBay, mostly in China and very cheap. Choice of angles on the cutters, but you will need to tip them off according to the line width you want if they are supplied dead sharp on the point. If you do not grind a little off the tip, it will break off as soon as it hits a piece of metal.

The chuck can also hold 1/8" shank carbide endmills and router bits if you are not just doing engraved name plates and such. The motor on the Green 106 is very small, so no hogging in steel is going to happen. I have done normal text engraving in cast iron and O1 steel with no problem.

I can sell a copy of the Green manual for another $20.

I have the Alexander copy of the Deckel SO and even have a Deckel collet with a no. 1 B&S hole for the Green cutters.

By the way, the big Green engraver takes 1/4" and smaller straight shank cutters in Universal OW collets. Last time I used it, I cut my house number in a stainless steel plate with a 1/4" endmill. Worked fine.

Larry
 
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but you will need to tip them off according to the line width you want if they are supplied dead sharp on the point. If you do not grind a little off the tip, it will break off as soon as it hits a piece of metal.

Since i don't have to hit a super precision width, i just line the cutter up by hand over a washita or sometimes hard india stone with the clearance and back angle, take a sort of practice air-swipe, and then do it for real. If it is really acute, i'll take short moves on the edge of a hard smooth stone to get the brittle tip worn off, then do the one pass swipe.
 
Since i don't have to hit a super precision width, i just line the cutter up by hand over a washita or sometimes hard india stone with the clearance and back angle, take a sort of practice air-swipe, and then do it for real. If it is really acute, i'll take short moves on the edge of a hard smooth stone to get the brittle tip worn off, then do the one pass swipe.
If you use carbide cutters, you need some sort of diamond to do the tip. I usually do it freehand on the AccuFinish, which also works fine on HSS cutters. The tip relief does have to be angled in the right orientation to the leading cutting edge in order to cut the bottom of the groove.

Larry
 
Chuck and one carbide cutter is $75 including shipping. You need a 5/16" and a 3/8" ignition wrench to operate. Lots of those 1/8" cutters on eBay, mostly in China and very cheap. Choice of angles on the cutters, but you will need to tip them off according to the line width you want if they are supplied dead sharp on the point. If you do not grind a little off the tip, it will break off as soon as it hits a piece of metal.
Hey Larry,

I sent you a PM for your paypal information for one of the chucks.

-Jacob
 








 
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