South Ben 13 Feed Screw Cracked

[bill_and_6-10ths]

I purchased off ebay a surprisingly large and heavy lathe. The Model 13.
Upon tearing down the apron and cross slide assembly, I see the crack in the feed screw. My question, can this be repaired or should it be replaced.
If B, whom does one call on to build one for me? I believe it was a school lathe. Has a big painted no 12 on it. The cross slide looks like the rocky with dolf. Beat to hell and back. Which is forgivable except for the fact that the top cross slide dovetail rods wont retract to allow the topslide to be detached and "fixed".

This is my first lathe. And my first post.

I was in the midst of working on it from the tail to the motor installing new felt kit.
Priority one was lubrication and full check of all components. My hope is to tear it down in phases, clean, strip, paint, reassemble.

 

[Dobermann]

It is likely a skilled TIG weldor could clean and repair that break. I might ask though, if this is your first lathe, do you think maybe you're in a little deep? Taking apart an apron and getting it all back together and functional isn't a trivial project.

 

[john.k]

Is it actually broken?.......there will be a slip joint there somewhere to allow a taper attachment to work .............anyway ,as mentioned ,If not it can be welded ,or even silver soldered with a bit of work.

 

[GenePoole]

It looks to be the housing that is broken, not the lead screw. That and the fact that the ball crank is broken leads me to believe it may have taken a tumble leading to its retirement. It may be weldable, but you'll also want to check out the whole thing for bends, etc. not to mention the possibility that the cross slide itself, as well as other apron components, may have been damaged in a tipover.

 

[bill_and_6-10ths]

The cross slide has seen better days. It has trouble "free rotating". After removing the two screws securing the top slide, the Wedges seem seized in place.

Lots of deep scoring. The crank had suffered some sort of trauma, which backs up the thought that it was bashed in one way or another.

Not too many cross slides, moreso the components for the 13 out there. Is there a compatibility with the siblings or was 13 its own animal?

I'm soaking up any info. Have the Renovation Guide and Felt kit, which was my only intention before this. Thank you for any thoughts and info.

Bill

 

[texasgeartrain]

The crack is on what I believe is called the bushing, which is the inner part of the dial assembly. Removing the ball crank and outer part of dial, then it will slip off the cross feed screw.

I don't think it will be too hard to find that. That one may be "extended", which makes it a little longer than some others, but you should still be able to find it.

Besides ebay, try emailing Ted at [email protected] he has a wide range of parts.

 

[stephen thomas]

That bushing part is also an easy one to make out of Durabar.
IOW, while the lathe is apart, separate the pieces and take all your accurate dimensions.
When you put it back together, make the replacement part.

If Ted does not have a replacement FS, ask him if he'd suggest G2 or one of the Ductile versions. I personally prefer Ductile Durabar such as 65-45-12 version. (G2 has more free graphite, but the material is soft & brittle. It is good for taper gibs, e.g. or bushings that don't need much strength or have detailed configuration. Ductile has less free graphite, but the material is, well, ductile (tough).

You could also make it out of bearing bronze, but it would not be original.

smt

 

[bill_and_6-10ths]

Here is another image showing the break,

 

[jim rozen]

This lathe was probably dropped on its nose. Hence the fractures in the bushing.

1) purchase a replacement
2) make a replacement
3) check to see the end of the leadscrew is not bent.

 

[bill_and_6-10ths]

Ted is coming thru on the part(s)!! Other than that, I don't want to jinx it until the last bolt or screw is in the apron.