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Southbend 9” workshop lathe motor wiring.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scohina
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Scohina

Plastic
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Dec 23, 2022
Hello, I’m ready to wire my mostly restored 9” workshop lathe and have a Delta 1/2 Hp motor with a delta 1hP drum reversing switch. The wiring diagram on my motor is rubbed off and I need some help wiring it. Here are pics of the data plate, the 5 wires coming out (red, white, green, yellow, black, blue?), and the switch. I’ve seen a few different wiring diagrams for Delta 110 v single phase motors, but none match my application. Thanks in advance.
~scott
 

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The picture with the motor open, shows several wires going somewhere, and a fat cable coming in to the end housing. Just curious...is there a cover plate on the outside of the end housing, or are those 5 wires connected directly to the fat cable? If there's a cover plate, it might be helpful to remove it, and get some pictures of what's inside.
 
Hi Jforb,
There was a cover plate on the outside of the motor with no markings on it. There are actually 6 wires coming out, including another small black one that connects to the area where the shaft connects to. I’ll attach a photo.
-the Red and Green wires from the motor are connected and marked by a copper clip. (Perhaps indicating ground?) they go to the yellow wire in the cord
-the small Black wire (circled in photo) coming from the end plate that the shaft goes into is connected to the Red wire on the cord.
-the Yellow and Black wires coming from the motor are connected to the Black wire on the cord
-the other Black wire is connected to the Green wire on the cord.

I have a multimeter and can make tests with guidance.

The previous owner connected the 6 wires coming from the motor to a cord with 4 wires. The motor can be run at 110 or 220 v and I’m planning to run it on 110 volts.
 

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I found this wiring diagram from another Delta Rockwell motor which May explained why the red/green wires and yellow/black wires were connected. I wired the yellow/black to a black wire of a cord and the red/green to a white and plugged it in and the motor hummed loudly as if trying to start. I tested the startup capacitor and get an OL reading so I ordered a new one. Now to figure out what the last two wires do and how to connect to my drum switch…
 

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Hi Scott,

Just noticed your thread, and wanted to see if I could help. Interestingly, not long ago I restored a 1/2 HP Delta motor very similar to yours, to power an old Delta wood lathe I'm restoring. It was originally wired wrong, and so I had to figure out the right way to wire.

These are basically simple motors, consisting of two "run" windings, and one "start" winding. The start winding is wired in series with the centrifugal start switch and capacitor. To run on 120 volts, the two start windings are wired in parallel across the two power legs, and the start winding circuit is wired across the line as well. The first diagram shows this. It's like a 3-rung ladder, with 2 rungs powering the motor, and 1 rung for starting. Note that the starter circuit is switched out of the circuit when the motor gets above a set speed.

Even without color codes or wire numbers, you can pretty easily figure out which wire does what by checking resistances across pairs of leads. The ohms values shown on the schematic are from my own motor, but yours should be close to this. There will be two windings of fairly low resistance, and one winding of a higher resistance. The winding with the higher resistance is the start winding. Note that with the motor at rest, there will be no continuity across the start rung, as the capacitor will normally read as "open" under a DC continuity test.

The thing to watch out for is that the two "run" windings must be wired in phase. In your case, based on the diagram that you found from a different motor, this means that the red and green wires should be connected together, and the black and yellow wires should be connected together. In the event that you're not sure which way is in phase, you can run the motor with only one run winding connected, then run it with the other winding connected. If the motor turns in the same direction each time, then the run windings are in phase. If not, then the run winding connections need to be reversed.

The reversing drum switch you have is a fairly simple one. It is interposed between the line cord and the motor as shown in the second diagram. The two sides of the line are switched on and off with the two outside sets of contacts, while the inside set of contacts connects to the starting circuit. Reversing the current flow through the starting circuit is what reverses the motor. (The numbers 1 thru 6 on the switch terminals are arbitrary, and won't necessarily correspond to your switch.)

The schematic for the switch shows it in both the forward and reverse modes. The switch contactors are shown in red. You will need 4 conductors to connect the switch to the motor, plus a ground wire that connects the switch housing to the motor frame. Also, the line cord should have a ground conductor that connects to the switch housing.

Good luck with your project, and let me know if you have any questions.

Paula
 

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Last edited:
Hi Scott,

Just noticed your thread, and wanted to see if I could help. Interestingly, not long ago I restored a 1/2 HP Delta motor very similar to yours, to power an old Delta wood lathe I'm restoring. It was originally wired wrong, and so I had to figure out the right way to wire.

These are basically simple motors, consisting of two "run" windings, and one "start" winding. The start winding is wired in series with the centrifugal start switch and capacitor. To run on 120 volts, the two start windings are wired in parallel across the two power legs, and the start winding circuit is wired across the line as well. The first diagram shows this. It's like a 3-rung ladder, with 2 rungs powering the motor, and 1 rung for starting. Note that the starter circuit is switched out of the circuit when the motor gets above a set speed.

Even without color codes or wire numbers, you can pretty easily figure out which wire does what by checking resistances across pairs of leads. The ohms values shown on the schematic are from my own motor, but yours should be close to this. There will be two windings of fairly low resistance, and one winding of a higher resistance. The winding with the higher resistance is the start winding. Note that with the motor at rest, there will be no continuity across the start rung, as the capacitor will normally read as "open" under a DC continuity test.

The thing to watch out for is that the two "run" windings must be wired in phase. In your case, based on the diagram that you found from a different motor, this means that the red and green wires should be connected together, and the black and yellow wires should be connected together. In the event that you're not sure which way is in phase, you can run the motor with only one run winding connected, then run it with the other winding connected. If the motor turns in the same direction each time, then the run windings are in phase. If not, then the run winding connections need to be reversed.

The reversing drum switch you have is a fairly simple one. It is interposed between the line cord and the motor as shown in the second diagram. The two sides of the line are switched on and off with the two outside sets of contacts, while the inside set of contacts connects to the starting circuit. Reversing the current flow through the starting circuit is what reverses the motor. (The numbers 1 thru 6 on the switch terminals are arbitrary, and won't necessarily correspond to your switch.)

The schematic for the switch shows it in both the forward and reverse modes. The switch contactors are shown in red. You will need 4 conductors to connect the switch to the motor, plus a ground wire that connects the switch housing to the motor frame. Also, the line cord should have a ground conductor that connects to the switch housing.

Good luck with your project, and let me know if you have any questions.

Paula
Thank you so much for this info and your help Paula. I identified the run and start windings and got the motor to run. It started by itself slowly with one of the run windings. I have tried each individually and both run wirings need me to spin the shaft to get the motor running. I made sure that each winding is in phase and spin in the same direction. When I hook both run windings to the new start capacitor wiring it hums but won’t start unless I give it some assistance. Once it starts spinning, it runs great! Do you know what I can do to get it to start on its own? It’s a brand new capacitor. Hopefully I didn’t blow it when I was dialing in the wiring.
Best regards,
~Scott in Denver.
 
Your description would indicate to me that the switch that engages the start winding is not making good contact. Have a look at the contact points on that switch and see if they need cleaning. If the start winding isn't switched on, the motor won't start by itself. It's also possible the switch isn't working correctly because part of it may be bent so that the contacts don't touch they way they are supposed to.
 
I was thinking the same as Doberman. Don't think it's the cap. Check the centrifugal switch, and also make sure the throw-out mechanism is free.
 
I was thinking the same as Doberman. Don't think it's the cap. Check the centrifugal switch, and also make sure the throw-out mechanism is free.
Thank you for the tip. Is the switch built in? Right now I have it hard wired to a plug that I turn on and off via a power strip with an on/off switch. I don’t know how the throw-out mechanism works yet, lol.

Best regards,
~Scott B.
 
I was thinking the same as Doberman. Don't think it's the cap. Check the centrifugal switch, and also make sure the throw-out mechanism is free.
Paula, It's great to hear from you again! I've always appreciated your expertise. Good luck with the current project and please keep us informed.
 
Yep , the switch in inside of the motor , you'll have to take one of the end bells off to get access to the switch . Look at the contact points on the switch like mentioned, sometimes you can clean the up with the strike part on a book of matches , or something with a very fine grit . If the motor is going to end up in a real pain in the ass locations to work on I'd probably replace the switch once you verify its the issue . This mite give ya some help .
animal
 








 
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