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Spindle Tool Loaner?

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Hello crew. I am finally at the point of reassembling my 2nd SB lathe, a very nice
1959 9" Model B. Most all of the parts have been cleaned and painted with exception
to some the small detail stuff. The spindle is beautiful.

I thought I would reach out to see if anyone made a re-insertion tool like the one pictured below in first photo.
I pulled the photo off an old thread and sent the member a message to see if I could borrow it. It is being used on a 10K.
I have my doubts that I will hear from him, but you just never know. I already have plenty of all thread, so I'm just after the "bell" shaped spacer.

Anyone have something like this they would loan me? I just don't think I have any stock that big in diameter to
make one, tho I will get some if need be to make my own. Of course, I will pay for shipping both ways.

Secondly, I had to replace the small 8-32 screws that hold the rack gear in place. Even with heat, 4 or 5
sheared clean away. So now I have a box of them (stainless steel flat heat) and they fit perfectly.

I also have plenty of the 5/16 low-profile bolts that go on the ends of the bed to hold the lead screw bearing (right)
and the QCGB (or bearing) on the far left. I also have the 3/8" bolts for the apron to saddle assembly.
These are Allen-head bolts, and I can send some of these if anyone is in need...and if you're not too particular about originality.

Just send me a PM and I can make it happen free of charge. (I also got some new taper pins, but not yet ready to cut loose
until I identify where they all go).

PMc

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texasgeartrain

Titanium
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Location
Houston, TX
I'm not familiar with this lathe, to know what's getting pressed on. But could a large diameter pipe or pipe fitting work ? If maybe, you could stick a pipe bushing on nut end to reduce open diameter.

In the 2nd pic, what's on the end of spindle ? Is that a thread protector, or are those splines mating to something ?
 

mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Here's another photo from the same thread. If I'm not mistaken, he is pulling the spindle out and into
the bell shape. Steve Brooks' "Rennovating " book suggests this method, or, beating the spindle out (or in) with a
rubber mallet, a method I don't like to use (but it works).

The weird thing on the end of the spindle in 2nd and 4th photos is just a cheapie plastic thread protector
from ePay. My original steel one got messed up.

The second photo is of my headstock before disassembly.

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mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
The only place where there is interference is where the bull gear fits onto the keyed portion of the spindle.
Everything else is a smooth, close-tolerance sliding fit.

The amount of travel (in or out) is one-inch, plus allowance of what ever is sticking out.
The book does say I can use a 2" diameter piece of pipe, so perhaps I'll give that a try first.

Thanks.

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mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Although the book states 2-inch pipe, the ID of the pipe has to be 2.145" to clear the spindle flange.
I don't know offhand if the ID of just regular pipe is that large.
And just for information sake, it HAS to be minimum 2 and one-quarter inches long to be used on both ends.

I just checked stock and I have a stick of 3" alum and a stick of 2.5" Delrin.
I should just probably make my own tool on second thought.
(I answered my own question, huh?!)

Thanks!

PMc

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texasgeartrain

Titanium
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Location
Houston, TX
Just a guess, but it appears they are using the headstock as a vise or stabilizer. The goal being to press bull gear off.

If the cone pulley can slip off the thrust adjusting nut side, can you just put the assembly in a press ? Press bull gear off ?
 

USNmechanic

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
If you’re reassembling the headstock, shouldn’t you only need about 1.5” clearance since you’re pulling it in the direction of the thrust bearing side of the spindle?


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mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
Yes, you can certainly use a press instead of all-thread to pull on or push off the bull gear and
spindle assembly. First problem is that I don't own one. Second, with all-thread and wrenches, you can feel
if the spindle is moving or if its hung up for some reason. Put it on a press and you loose that feel.
And remember you have a stack of bearings and the 3-step cone that also has to rest on the spindle.
These are all captured between the two bearing arms/posts.

When pulling the spindle on using the all-thread, you have to accept for a little over 2 inches before the spindle flange
on the other end "lands". So whether you are pulling/pushing it off or on, you have to have about 2 and one-quarter inch
clearance (length) on either end.

Theres probably many ways to skin this cat!
(Hope I wasn't confusing; you'd see it clear as day if you were here)

PMc

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mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
If you’re reassembling the headstock, shouldn’t you only need about 1.5” clearance since you’re pulling it in the direction of the thrust bearing side of the spindle?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're not taking into account the amount of spindle end already sticking out...you have to add the amount of movement to
that too.
Or take a look at photo of the assembled unit. You can see just how much spindle material will be
sticking out when finished. You have to allow for all of that.

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USNmechanic

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
You're not taking into account the amount of spindle end already sticking out...you have to add the amount of movement to
that too.
Or take a look at photo of the assembled unit. You can see just how much spindle material will be
sticking out when finished. You have to allow for all of that.

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I was just misunderstanding which dimension you were referring to. I thought you were referring to the diameter of the spindle you needed to clear, and not the length it needs to clear as it travels during the assembly. I used 2” schedule 40 PVC or several stacked bearing races for the 10+ times I’ve done it. Very nice looking lathe, btw!


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mcload

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Location
Houston, Texas
....Very nice looking lathe, btw!...

Thank you sir!! I hope that it will be nice when finished...that's what I'm shooting for. I will be hankering for
a QCGB before all is said and done!

The other "fly in the ointment" as you well know, is that of using wires to hold down the spring-loaded felts as the spindle
is inserted. When I did this on my 1946 lathe (below), I decided to use very small & skinny allen wrenches. There is a
lot more pressure from the springs than I expected. The springs were totally bottomed out in the hole. Anyway, while inserting the spindle, the edge (of spindle) was catching on the allen wrench. I finally used something else to hold the felt pad down, and got past it. I might clip a coil or two from bottom of spring this time to relieve just a tiny bit of that pressure.

So, just taking my time, not getting in some self-imposed rush, getting it done right. Now that almost all the parts are
cleaned and painted, the rest of it is a relative breeze. I would still like to get a finer finish on the 3-step spindle
pulley below. I've used half a dozen sheets of 600 and a few sheets of 800, but it's not where I'd like it to be.
If I just stand back 10 feet, it looks fine!

Thanks for your input!

PMc
(USN, NAS Alameda, CA, 1973-1977)

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