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StanF South Bend 9A Rebuild Thread

The plate for the Palmgren vise got finished. I used my Jet 8x36 mill - the Rockwell isn't cleaned up yet. The Jet does a great job on small jobs like this. Checking fit on the width here:
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Not my best work, but the screws fit! Lubed up and installed:
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The plate does not align any parts - it just keeps the jaw from rising when it is clamped down. I probably won't use this vise very often. So, I'm not worried about any wear.
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Good enough to get the clamp working:
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Next step...cut the aluminum rod down to length, and then do the deep drilling on the drill press.
 
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Drilling the rods in the vise worked well. I did this to the other 3 foot pegs:
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Then I finished boring them in the lathe. Two 1/4-20 set screws hold them in place.
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These are just to keep your shoes from scratching the paint :cheers:
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Then I started squaring and sizing the block for the Wilton vise repair on the mill that I mentioned a few weeks ago
Reminder:
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(the lathe will be used for boring the holes - coming soon)
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I like to have a sketch or drawing when I'm making parts, and you can see it under the block.
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I bought another disassembled lathe today - 9C from about 1941. It is missing some major components, so I just mainly bought it for parts to keep other lathes running. Either my lathe or others, although I'm not sure that I need anything at this point. No change gears other than what is installed on the head stock.

It is missing a bolt in the bearing cap, which is an ominous sign:
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There is some kind of depth stop or accessory in the end of the head stock that I need to investigate:
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The 3 jaw chuck might be better than the one that I've got. No compound slide, unfortunately. Thread dial is nice:
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The tailstock looks complete, but I haven't inspected it yet.
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The taper attachment is incomplete, but there are still come good parts there.
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Cover looks okay with a pretty decent label:
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Many bits were included that I might use at some point:
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Looks like a newish Allen Bradley switch, which is nice:
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It did come with a neat variable speed motor - "Master Speed-Ranger". I may play around with it, or use it on a different project. Does anybody know anything about these?
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1/2 hp, which is good. But 3 phase, which will limit it's use:
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I have to be honest...I really hate change gear lathes. There's not a chance that I will try to get this running again. It will be parts!
 
I see some de-rusting in your future Stan. :-)

While I'd very much agree about those change gear lathes, and mostly a proper gear box equipped lathe will do pretty much anything ever needed. It's when you get away from the usual when those change gear lathes become much more adaptable. I've got one book that details using live tooling on the cross slide and milling a long lead 1" tpi thread or groove by arranging the correct gearing on a bench top sized change gear lathe, and then back driving the head stock spindle with a hand wheel on the lathes lead screw. Basically using it as a replacement for a universal milling machine with a universal dividing head geared to the milling tables X axis. And those change gears can sometimes help cutting some threads or even worm pitches well outside what the fixed thread range a gear box equipped lathe might allow.
 
A few more pictures...overview:
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The chuck is a KO Lee. I'm not familiar with that brand, but it feels smooth. The jaws don't look very worn or abused.
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It didn't come off of the 9C - it's got a 1-3/8 thread size. I've got a blank 1-1/2 x 8 backing plate already, so I can get it working with my 9A.
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And lots of bits!
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I'm keeping these, and can modify them for my needs in the future.
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Back to the Wilton vise...I did some work before I watched the Mavs dominate the Timberwolves.
On to the Finals!
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I'm trying to drill the two holes needed for the handle and for the leadscrew.
(and then bore them to final size on the lathe in the 4 jaw chuck)

This illustrates why I wanted the Rockwell mill - lack of Z height!
The knee is all the way down, and the quill is all the way up. And I basically have no room to drill. (I agree that this isn't a great setup with the rotating vise base). I do have some stubby mills for use on the mill, which are great.
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That's a Yuasa vise, which I like, but the degree marker hangs down over the bottom surface of the vise. It really wants to stay on the rotating base, or I need to just remove the degree marker.
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Not a great design choice:
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No picture, but I ended up removing the Yuasa vise and putting a small Palmgren milling vise in its place.
 
The Speed Ranger is a varispeed drive - these were typically delivered on smaller pratt whitney lathes and mllers, from the factory. When they work properly they're incredibly heavy and not too efficient. A 3 phase motor with a VFD will make that obsolete.

The C model lathes often hav less wear as they were rarely used in manufacturing. The hugh box-O-lathe tools is a nice find but be aware many of those are high carbon tool steel and not high speed steel. If overheated while grinding to sharpen them, they loose temper. So go easy if you toch them up.

Nice find -and the missing bolt on the left side spindle bearing may not be as sinister as you think. Former owner might not have known how to propery adjust those. Be sure there's shim in there beforr tightening a new bolt down.
 
A couple of odds & ends...

First, what is this little pin secured to the taper attachment?
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I have no idea how it would be used with the taper attachment.
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My taper attachment is missing it, but I have the hole for it.
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KO Lee Chuck:
I took it apart, and there is very little wear. It's stamped "905" on the back, and also on the jaws. I'm wondering if the construction or hardware would point to a maker, such as Buck (someone mentioned them in an earlier post).
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I also got the way protector 3d printed - I don't remember if I ever posted a photo:
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If I had to guess about the chuck. That is a old Cushman or Union "light duty" chuck they sold back in the days. Look under Vintage Machinery website for Cushman Chuck co. for a start.
 
If I recall correctly, I think that pin on the taper attachment goes into the hole where the screw is removed from the cross slide (screw that connects to the cross slide lead screw), removal of which is required to operate the taper attachment. The cross slide on a SB9 that will accommodate the taper attachment is different than the non taper attachment cross slide.
 
Work continues on the Wilton Vise bracket. It was a little tedious because of the Z-height limitations...I started off with a drill chuck up to 3/8":
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Then I had to use Silver & Deming bits directly in the 1/2" R8 Collet. Up to 7/8" dia.
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Then I used the R8 boring head from India, which surprisingly fit in the Z-height! I bored it out to ~.900" dia to fit the handle. I didn't get a picture of the boring operation. Ooops
Result:
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Then I flipped the part 90 degrees...drilled to 5/8", then bored to .655 dia:
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Good result:
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Sorry, no lathe content in this post. I was expecting to bore out the diameters on the lathe using the 4 jaw chuck, but I got lucky and could use the boring head on the mill.

Someone in India randomly drilled the clamping screw locations. It actually still works fine, but, cosmetically, it drives me crazy! I think I got this in a local garage sale a couple of years ago - I definitely didn't buy it new.
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Stan, looks like you have the exact same mill as I do (well, trying to sell). I have a 6" diameter x 4" high steel cap, about 5/8" wall thickness you can have for shipping. I used its brother to make a 4" riser for my unmentionable 6x26" knee mill. See pics in next post. Made a world of difference for the exact reasons you talk about
 
Stan, looks like you have the exact same mill as I do (well, trying to sell). I have a 6" diameter x 4" high steel cap, about 5/8" wall thickness you can have for shipping. I used its brother to make a 4" riser for my unmentionable 6x26" knee mill. See pics in next post. Made a world of difference for the exact reasons you talk about
Looks great Matt - I sent you a PM. Thanks!
 
Work continues on the Wilton vise handle part...2nd to the last post on this part!

Marked for the next operations:
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Used the drill press - everything from here on out is cosmetic or wide tolerance:
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Roll pin alignment looks good
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The bandsaw is faster than hogging that off with an end mill:
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Cleaned up the sawcut:
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Used a technique that I saw on YouTube to radius these edges. Surface finish is horrible, some of that is my poor machining, and a lot of that is just hot rolled. At the end of the day, the part will serve its function!
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It takes many iterative cuts - indexing the part about 10-15 degrees at a time:
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I'm going to call the machining done and move on to other projects. I'll clean up the tool marks and debur everything with some low tech sanding! Then a quick coat of paint:
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I remember some of the abuse these vises went through in junior high wood shop back in my time. I know this one will have a good life after the repair. Or is there some grandkids in the picture somewhere?
 








 
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